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The Grafton Two Storey Bridge over the Clarence River
 

Grafton
Substantial and attractive town on the NSW North Coast
Grafton has a very beautiful and very gracious city centre characterised by wide streets, elegant Victorian buildings, a superb location on the banks of the Clarence River, a sense of solidity, and a long-standing concern with civic beauty, manifest in the 6500 trees and 24 parks which adorn the city. In fact, the first ornamental trees were planted as early as 1874 and the city's famous jacaranda stands in 1907-08.

Grafton is located about 40 km due west of the coast and 625 km north-east of Sydney at the junction of the Pacific and Gwydir Highways. The city is bisected by the Clarence River which, for many years, proved a barrier to the connection of the city centre (on the northern bank) with Sydney.

The Clarence (known to Europeans as the 'Big River' until 1840), with its tributaries - the Nymboida, the Orara, the Mann and the Coldstream - constitutes the largest river system on the northern NSW coast. Draining over two million hectares it contains over 100 islands, including Susan Island which lies between Grafton and South Grafton.

With a population of 18 500, Grafton is the major settlement on the Clarence River and the commercial centre of an extensive agricultural and pastoral district. The fertile river flats have encouraged dairying, sugarcane plantations and mixed farming. Fishing, the raising of pigs and cattle, the processing and marketing of primary produce and engineering are also important.

The area was occupied by the Gumbaingirr Aborigines at the time of European colonisation. It is thought that the first whites in the area were convict escapees from Moreton Bay who passed through the area in the late 1820s and early 1830s. One of their number, Richard Craig, reported a big river and a plenitude of valuable timber when he arrived at Port Macquarie in 1832. He was later employed by a Thomas Small of Sydney who, inspired by Craig's reports, sent off his brother and two dozen sawyers on board the schooner, the Susan, to the 'Big River'. It was the first European vessel to enter the river. Other cedar-cutters followed in their wake. Small took up a large parcel of land on Woodford Island, opening the way for other pastoralists along the river that Governor Gipps named the Clarence in 1839.

A store and shipyard were established, on what is now South Grafton in 1839 and shipbuilding would remain a major local industry until the end of the century when the railways began to dominate internal trade.

A wharf, store and inn adorned the northern bank by the early 1840s . Until 1861, when a punt service commenced, the only interaction between the two settlements was by row-boat. This area was known collectively and imaginatively as 'The Settlement'.

Twenty establishments were listed on the Clarence River in 1841. The district was surveyed in 1843 and a police magistrate appointed in 1846, at which time the population was recorded as 120.

A township was laid out in 1849 and named after the Duke of Grafton who was the grandfather of Governor Fitzroy. The first land sale took place in the early 1850s, a school opened in 1852 and the first Anglican church in 1854. The population, by 1856, had grown to 1069.

Wharves were established in the 1850s and Grafton benefited both from its location on the main coastal road to the north and from gold discoveries on the upper Clarence River. It soon became the major town on the Clarence and was declared a municipality in 1859. That same year, Grafton became home to both the Clarence and Richmond River Examiner and the first National School north of the Hunter River.

Sugar-growing commenced in the 1860s but dairying ultimately proved more successful. Development was further stimulated by the commencement of selection in the 1860s. A steam-driven vehicular ferry was established at this time.

Grafton was declared a city in the mid-1880s, by which time its population had surpassed 4000. The arrival of the railway at Glen Innes in 1883 and the completion of the Casino to North Grafton line in 1905, contributed to a slow decline in Grafton's importance as a regional port although the river trade chugged along until the 1950s.

 

The Grafton Two Storey Bridge over the Clarence River
 

In 1897 South Grafton established itself as a separate municipality and the two settlements were not amalgamated until 1956. This separation must have been due, in part, to the absence of a bridge. Remarkably, this situation was not rectified until 1932. It is even more remarkable when one considers that the rolling-stock of the Sydney-Brisbane railway (which reached South Grafton in 1915) had to be ferried across until that time. Still, when it did arrive it was a most unique construction, consisting of two storeys with the railway running underneath the road. It was, furthermore, a lift bridge, although the decline of the river trade saw the lift section sealed.

Poet Henry Kendall lived here as a child until 1852, only to return in the early 1860s when he worked as a clerk for solicitor and fellow-poet J.L. Michael who drowned in the river in 1868. The founder of the Country Party, Earle Page, was born at Grafton in 1880.

The Grafton Jazz and Blues Festival is held at Easter and the week-long Jacaranda Festival commences on the last Saturday of October, culminating in a street parade the following weekend. Community markets are held on the last Saturday of each month at the Alumny Creek Reserve, just out of Grafton on the Southgate Rd.

 


 

 

Things to see:   

Tourist Information
The Clarence River Tourist Centre, at the corner of Spring St and the Pacific Highway in South Grafton, has a theatrette and displays of Aboriginal art, as well as all the information you need about the area, including a brochure on Grafton's beautiful collection of trees, a Heritage Trail, a self-drive tour of the area, houseboat availability, tours of a sugarcane farm, a dairy farm and Tooheys brewery, joy flights, canoe and fishing tours, gliding, scenic drives, Harley Davidson tours, farm holidays and excursions, horseriding, package holidays, National Parks information and a list of arts, crafts and antique shops, tel: (02) 6642 4677.

 

Heritage Walk
Within the city centre there are a number of particularly impressive buildings. Victoria, Fitzroy and Prince Sts contain most of the city's civic architecture while Oliver, Mary and Alice Sts contain a number of fine residences.

Start your journey at Memorial Park, adjacent the river at the end of Prince St (the main street of Grafton). At 1 Prince St is the Crown Hotel-Motel, built on the site of Grafton's first hotel (1841). It overlooks the levee bank and Susan Island.

Walk along to the Victoria St corner. Turn right into Victoria St. To your right is the post office (1874) with its weighty sandstone colonnades. Just past it is the excellent Classical Revival courthouse (1877-80) with its colonnaded and stone-flagged verandah, gabled central section and intricate fretwork under the eaves. Adjacent is the former police station (1881) which was conceived as an harmonious complement to the courthouse. It is built of the same local bricks and features many identical architectural elements. The original courthouse (1860-62) once stood to its rear and the footings remain. All three buildings were designed by colonial architect, James Barnet.

Across the road are three adjacent buildings of historic interest. At 58 Victoria St is the Post Office Hotel (1860). Next door is Foott Law & Co Solicitors (c.1880) and, at 54, is Fitzgeralds Chambers (1908) - a two-storey Classical Revival building.

 

 

Christ Church Cathedral
 

The Christ Church Anglican Cathedral
Christ Church Cathedral is located on the corner of Victoria St and Duke St. The foundation stone was laid in 1874. Designed by distinguished Canadian architect, J. Horbury Hunt, the principal construction work was carried out between 1880 and 1884, with the western portion and Duke St entry added in 1934 (to Hunt's design). Hunt's spire was never built.

The salmon-coloured bricks were locally manufactured from over 100 different design moulds. The roof trusses in the sanctuary and nave are of particular distinction. The louvres were a concession to the climate. It is open for inspection every day with guides available for groups.

The small church hall to the rear (c.1890) was also designed by Hunt and was intended for less formal activities. Of the two adjacent cottages, one dates from the early 1850s and one from c.1890. The former is now the Cathedral Bookshop and the latter the Cathedral Ministry Centre.

Across the road is the deanery, built 1872 as a rectory. It is surrounded by a verandah and fine gardens.

 

Heritage Walk Continued
Walk back along Victoria St across Prince St. At 85 Victoria St is Roches Family Hotel (c.1870). At 95 is 'Istria' (1899), an early Edwardian residence. The cottage at 140 Victoria St remains virtually unchanged since it was built in the 1860s and at 150 Victoria St is 'Arcola' (1907) - arguably the town's best example of Edwardian architecture.

From the end of Victoria St turn into Alice St and cross over Fitzroy St. At 11 and 13 Alice St are 'Abbotsford' and 'Bronte', a pair of decorative Federation-style houses dating from the first decade of the 20th century. Of particular note are the timber decoration, the detailed chimneys and the rooves.

Return to Fitzroy St. At no. 213 is 'Verona' (1876). This building was originally in red brick and was extended in 1971.

 

Schaeffer House Museum
At 192 Fitzroy St is Schaeffer House (originally 'Kia-Ora'). Built from 1901 to 1903 it now houses the local historical society's museum. One of the city's most attractive homes, it was built by local architect Frederick Schaeffer and is open from 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m., Tuesday to Thursday and from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 pm. on Sunday, tel: (02) 6642 5212.

Almost opposite the museum, at 197 Fitzroy St, is 'Ulverstone', built in 1878 with extensive alterations and additions in 1906. At 177 Fitzroy St is a residence virtually unchanged since its construction in the 1870s.

 

Grafton Regional Gallery
Grafton Regional Art Gallery is located in Prentice House, an historic home at 158 Fitzroy St dating from 1880. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. every day but Monday, tel: (02) 6642 3177.

 

Heritage Walk Continued
At the corner of Prince and Fitzroy Sts is one of the town's finest commercial buildings - the former CBC Bank (1877), now the National Australia Bank Building. Built in sandstone with a slate roof and cast-iron decoration, the striped colour scheme is authentic. It was one of the town's first buildings to have its first floor elevated above flood level.

At 149 Prince St is the old Daily Examiner building (1861), built two years after the newspaper (still in operation) commenced publication.

At the corner of Prince and Pound Sts is Weileys Hotel. It was built in 1909 to replace the original which had been destroyed by fire. Opposite is Market Square: a fine park adjacent the clock tower.

Continue north along Prince St for two more blocks then turn right into Oliver St. To the right is St Andrew's Presbyterian Church (1886).

Back on Prince St, between Fry and Dobie, is the T.J. Ford Pavilion (c.1884) at the showgrounds. At 207 Prince St is the former Max Johnston Food Store, built in the 1860s as the European Hotel.

You may wish to conclude your walk here. The fit or enthusiastic may want to continue north for three blocks to Arthur St and turn left for one block. At Queen and Arthur is the Grafton Gaol complex (1893). The buildings are of the highest quality with some fine decorative detailing throughout. However, non-inmates may satisfy themselves with the ornate entranceway and elaborately moulded timber gates.

Continue along Arthur St for two more blocks and turn left into Alice St. At no.137, is 'Rosslyn' (1879), one of the city's better residences which remains largely unaltered.

Turn left into Fry St then right into Mary St. The impressive building at no. 97 is the former grammar school (1878).

 

South Grafton Heritage Walk
South Grafton is a real surprise. For those who think all the old buildings are concentrated in Grafton, this 19th-century river town is worth a visit. It has a number of impressive buildings including St Matthew's Anglican Church (1886), at the corner of Through St and Summerland Way (the road which leads across the bridge). It contains stained-glass windows from the English chapel of the Duke of Grafton, after whom the town is named.

 

The Post Office, South Grafton
 

Walk along Through St to the Skinner St corner where there is a marina overlooking Susan Island. At 90 Through St is Walkers Marina Hotel (1909). At 75 Skinner St is the Post Office Hotel and St Patrick's Catholic Church (1881) is located at the corner of Skinner and Ryan Sts. Opposite is the post office and nearby are the former council chambers.

Also on the south side of the Clarence River, just a few hundred metres upstream from the bridge, are the rusty remains of an old boat which, it is claimed, was used by Winston Churchill during the Boer War. How does one check such an improbable story?

 

Susan Island
Susan Island is a nature reserve located in the middle of the Clarence River, between Grafton and South Grafton. It was named after the Susan which became the first ship to enter the Clarence River in 1838. On board was a crew of cedar-getters led by ex-convict Richard Craig who, as an escapee seven years earlier, had made the first European report of the 'Big River'.

The western section is dominated by a rainforest which is inhabited by a large colony of fruit bats and the island has strong links with Aboriginal history and culture. There is a walking trail with interpretive signage on the island, as well as toilets and picnic facilities.

The only access is by private boat or canoe although the National Parks and Wildlife Service run excursions to the island on Australia Day and sometimes organise educational excursions during school holidays, tel: (02) 6640 3910. Canoes can be hired from Grafton Great Outdoors at 93 Bent St, tel: (02) 6643 3922. There is a jetty at the end of Prince St. Landings can be made at the eastern end of the island.

 

Lawrence
It is possible to drive north-east from Grafton, following the northern bank of the Clarence River, to Lawrence which is a pretty town at the confluence of the river and Sportsmans Creek. The creek is a good spot for bass fishing, canoeing and birdwatching. The sand spits adjacent town are also good for anglers. There are a couple of boat ramps, a tavern and a 9-hole golf course. A 24-hour vehicular ferry will take you across to Illarwill on Woodford Island (see entry on Maclean) although the ferry is closed on Tuesdays from 9.30 a.m. to 11.00 a.m.

 

Yuraygir National Park
15 km south of Grafton , Minnie Water Rd heads east off the Pacific Highway to the central section of Yuraygir National Park which spans 60 km of coastline from Angourie in the north to Red Rock in the south. For further information, see entry on Wooli.

 

Washpool National Park
88 km north-west of Grafton along the Gwydir Highway, Coombadjha Rd heads off to the right into World Heritage listed Washpool National Park, which includes the largest undisturbed rainforest in NSW and the world's largest remaining undisturbed stand of coachwood forest. The plateau upon which it stands rises to 1200 m above sea-level and the Washpool and Coombadjha Creeks have carved gorges through the plateau.

Less than a kilometre along Coombadjha Rd a side road heads off to the left to The Granite where there is a picnic area and a 700-m walking track to a lookout which takes in the south-eastern section of the park.

Coombadjha Rd leads past three clearings - the Bellbird Rest Area, the Coachwood Picnic Area, and the Coombadjha Creek Rest Area from whence there are two walks: the 1.1-km Coombadjha Nature Stroll and the Washpool Walk (10 km return). Ring (02) 6732 5133 for further information.

 

Gibraltar Range National Park
3 km past Coombadjha Rd is a turnoff on the left into Mulligans Rd. This is the main access road into Gibraltar Range National Park which is located in high granite country, dominated by eucalypt forest. It is an ideal place for bushwalking. There are large numbers of wildflowers in the warmer months and a plenitude of wildlife.

10 km along Mulligans Rd is the Mulligans Hut Rest Area on the western bank of Little Dandahra Creek. William Mulligan was a pioneering advocate of hydro-electric power on the Nymboida River. He built his hut in 1924 while establishing hydro-power for sawmills in the mountains.

Today there are campsites, showers, toilets, fireplaces and tables. There are various swimming holes along the creek and, in the school holidays, the rangers sometimes put on an evening campfire program for visitors.

Five walking trails depart from Mulligans leading to the beautiful Dandahra Falls, the Barra Nula Cascades, the Atrichornis/Murrumbooee Cascades, Tree Fern Forest and The Needles. The latter are six separate granite outcrops which, according to Aboriginal lore, are six sisters turned to stone by the curse of their pursuer.

There is also a picnic area just off the highway in Mulligans Rd and two walking tracks depart from a point about 3 km along the road. One heads south to Anvil Rock (4 km return). The other heads south-west to the spectacular Dandahra Crags (5 km return).

5 km west of Mulligans Rd, another road heads off the Gwydir Highway to the left, leading to Raspberry Lookout where there are picnic tables and excellent views. Another kilometre along the highway, to the right, is Boundary Falls Rd which will take you to the falls of the same name. From there you can walk 1 km downstream to the beautiful Lyrebird Falls. Ring (02) 6732 5133 for further information.

 

Nymboida National Park
This 19000-ha area incorporates parts of the Mann and Nymboida Rivers, considered among the best canoeing and white-water rafting rivers in eastern Australia. The terrain is rugged but scenic and the riverflats make attractive bush campsites. Access is strictly via 4WD.

To get there head out of Grafton along the Gwydir Highway for about 9 km then turn left onto the Old Glen Innes Rd at the Hilldrop Motor Inn. About 40 km from Grafton, at the top of the Buccarumbi Range, turn right onto the road signposted for Ramornie Forest Camping Area. 6.9 km from Old Glen Innes Rd, turn right, over the ramp. Facilities are basic. Access within the park is via canoe along the Nymboida River from Buccarumbi or by foot. It is advisable to obtain a mud map before setting off, tel: (02) 6640 3910.

 

Old Glen Innes Rd
The Old Glen Innes Road continues westwards from this point, passing through some outstanding mountain and riverside scenery, looping back to the highway after 100 km (mostly unsealed). Until the present highway opened this was a main access road to the coast. The original bush track was cut by wool haulers and timbergetters in the early 1840s. With convict labour a proper road was created in the 1860s and it was declared a highway in 1876.

At Buccarumbi, 50 km from the highway, the remains of a bridge ruined by flood sit beside the new bridge.

11 km past the bridge, just across a cattle grid, are a half-dozen marked graves to the right in open bushland which date back to the 1830s.

8 km on is the abandoned settlement of Dalmorton. All that remains are some ruins in the paddocks where cattle graze amidst the attractive scenery. A cleared area on the left, one kilometre beyond Jackass Creek, allows cars to pull off the road and a walking track leads 500 m into the bush where you can find relics from the goldmining which occurred here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

8 km beyond Dalmorton you will come to a 20-metre tunnel carved through solid rock by convicts when the road was constructed. It is the only one of its type in Australia.

About 48 more kilometres will bring you to the Mann River Nature Reserve where there is a picnic area with opportunities for bush camping, fishing, canoeing and bushwalking. The road soon ascends Big Hill in a series of hairpin bends, offering some fine views to passengers, before returning to the highway 35 km from Glen Innes.

 

Lower Clarence Aboriginal Tourist Site Drive
The information centre can furnish a self-drive pamphlet outlining 13 significant Aboriginal sites in the area.

 

Fishing
The Tourist Centre possesses two excellent single-sheet pamphlets entitled 'Bass Fishing in the Clarence River' and 'Fishing Around Grafton'. The former contains valuable practical information about the feeding habits of the bass, the times of the day and of the year that are most rewarding and advice concerning lures, tackle, techniques, clothing, accessories etc. The latter looks more generally at the types of fish in the area which can vary with weather conditions. Freshwater species, apart from the Australian bass, are snub-nosed garfish, long-finned eel, estuary perch, eastern freshwater cod, eel-tailed catfish and pink-eye mullet.

'Fishing Around Grafton' considers the conditions that affect species availability, means of identification, recommended rigging and baits, bag and size limits and scarcity.

There are a number of boat ramps in Grafton and several jetties. Most are on the river's northern shore. There is a jetty and boat ramp at the river end of Prince St (by the Crown Hotel), another jetty at the river end of Breimba St, a boat ramp at the eastern end of Fry St and a jetty and boat ramp at the southern end of Corcoran Park (Kirchner St). Corcoran Park has a second ramp, located off the road which runs into the park off Kirchner St. South Grafton boasts a marina and boat ramp in Skinner St.

Just downstream of the town the river is wide and quite beautiful and tends to become brackish. Upstream of Grafton there is a boat ramp on Carrs Peninsula Road at Junction Hill, and two associated with Seelands - at Eastlands Park (Old Punt Road) and the Big Ski River Lodge. It is also possible to slide small boats and canoes down the banks. However, this area is known for its white water so only the experienced should try their hand.

Anglers in non-tidal waterways must purchase a licence at a cost of $10 for one month, $25 for one year or $70 for three years. Local outlets selling licences are McLachlans Sports Store at 87 Fitzroy St (tel: 02 6642 2325) and the Grafton Great Outdoor Centre at 93 Bent St, tel: (02) 6643 3922. The latter also sells tackle and hires out canoes. If you have a credit card you can pay for a licence by ringing the NSW Fisheries on 1300 369 365. They publish a pamphlet entitled 'Marine Recreational Fishing in New South Wales'. It looks at official bag and size limits, protected species, permitted gear, spearfishing regulations, penalties and the location of its offices. The fisheries website is www.fisheries.nsw.gov.au

Tackle is also available from Tarrant's Barber Shop at South Grafton, tel: (02) 6642 4744. Boats can also be hired from Seelands Boat Hire, tel: (02) 6644 9381. Houseboats are available from Yamba (tel: 02 6645 8067) and Brushgrove, tel: (02) 6647 6232. Fishing charter operators are located at Wooli (tel: 02 6649 7100) and Yamba, tel: (02) 6643 9041. Hired boats are not permitted closer than 1 km to the river entrance.

 

 

 

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Grafton