The Court House

 

Lismore (including Clunes, Bentley, Alphadale, Bexhill, Eltham and The Channon)
Major commercial, cultural and educational centre on the far north coast of New South Wales.
Located 776 km north-east of Sydney via Woodburn, Lismore is a prosperous, substantial and quite cosmopolitan city of 43 000 people. These attributes stem largely from the fact that it is the major commercial and administrative city on the state's North Coast, although the city itself is actually located in an attractive rural riverside setting about 30 km inland.

The area around Lismore has become a major base for those wishing to pursue creative endeavours and alternative lifestyles. Thus there is a high concentration of painters, woodworkers, ceramists, filmmakers, musicians, poets, designers and dancers. Consequently, there are many galleries, studios and theatres in the area.

The beauty of the environment has made Lismore a base for those wishing to explore the surrounding area. Hence tourism is an asset to the local economy. The district is one of the country's most closely settled rural areas and one of the principal dairying regions in the state. Other contributions to the local economy are made by pig farming, bacon-curing, the production of bananas, tropical fruit, macadamias and sugar, as well as sawmilling, engineering, steel fabrication, brewing and clothing manufacture. Being located on the Bruxner Highway, it is also a centre for road transport .

Lismore lies nine metres above sea-level on the narrow and winding North Arm of the Richmond River, although this branch of the waterway was renamed Wilsons River in 1976 in honour of the family who established the 'Lismore' station.

In 1828 Captain Henry Rous became the first European to encounter the river which he named the Richmond after a family friend - Charles, the Fifth Duke of Richmond. He followed the river upstream for about 32 km noting numerous Aborigines, 'flat open forest on the western bank and thick jungle to the eastward with fine timber'. Rous's endeavours were part of a general exploration of the land north of Sydney undertaken in the 1820s as drought and an expanding population created a demand for new pasturage.

The first station on the future townsite was probably established in 1842 as there were reports of a shepherd and 10 000 sheep on the site (sheep did poorly in the heat and moisture of the valley and were soon replaced by cattle). It was located at the western edge of a dense forest area of around 75 000 ha known to whites as the 'Big Scrub' which is thought to have been the largest stand of subtropical rainforest in the world. The Bundjalung Aborigines called the area 'Tchukarmboli' or 'Tuckurimba'.

Scotsman William Wilson then took up the rights to the run and was in occupation of the land by 1845 (his cottage stood at what is now the southern end of Molesworth St). The Wilsons named the property 'Lismore' after the island of Lismore in Argyllshire, Scotland which they visited on their honeymoon. It remained a station until 1855 when a townsite was surveyed on what had been the Wilsons' house paddock. The first hotel was in existence by the end of 1855. The village of Lismore was gazetted in 1856 and the first land sale took place later in the year. The first store was opened in 1857. Wilson bought many of the allotments himself although station hands and timber-workers also invested.

 

St Carthage's Catholic Church, Lismore

 

The timbergetters, upon the advice of local Aborigines, had arrived in the valley by 1842, by which time the cedar along the Clarence River had begun to disappear. There they found a seeming utopia of cedar and the Richmond Valley was, by the start of the 1850s, the major source of timber for the Sydney and Melbourne markets. A sawmill was established in South Lismore in 1855 but it soon failed. However, as Lismore represented the head of navigation on the North Arm, cedar-cutters upstream floated the timber to this point where it was picked up by river craft. Other more successful mills were set up from the 1880s.

The growth of the logging industry in the 1850s and 1860s prompted a considerable increase of river traffic which in turn would prove highly beneficial to the growth of Lismore. The river trade continued quite profitably until after World War II when it was rendered redundant by rail and road improvements.

A school appears to have been opened in 1862 but a contemporary account noted that the population of Lismore remained 'small and scattered' in the 1860s. However, free selectors had begun to trickle in. They cleared the 'Big Scrub' and established farms. Corn-growing proved a failure and sugarcane was taken up in the late 1860s. However, it was not until the Colonial Sugar Refining Company opened a large crushing mill in 1881 at Broadwater, buying cane on contract from farmers, that consistent success was achieved. Potatoes, maize, bananas and livestock were also cultivated. Dairying started on a very tentative basis as there was a lack of good grass for cattle. An influx of experienced dairy farmers from the South Coast in the 1880s proved beneficial although the enormous success of local dairying is attributable, in large part, to the introduction of paspalum grass in the 1890s.

Free selectors began to arrive in far greater numbers in the late 1870s and Lismore became a municipality in 1879. Closer settlement led to the establishment of an Anglican Church (work commenced in 1871), a Catholic Church (completed in 1877), the first bank (1875), a newspaper, the Northern Star (in 1876), a courthouse (1877-78), a Presbyterian Church (1881) and two private schools. The 1880s witnessed the population surpass 1000, bridges built to replace ferry punts, the construction of the first permanent post office, the council chambers and a cottage hospital, and the introduction of gas lighting and a water supply system. By the time Lismore was linked by rail to Murwillumbah, in 1894, the town had become the main business centre on the river. Lismore became a city in 1946.

The Lantern Parade (a major community celebration) is held late in June each year and, in October, there is a folk festival and the North Coast National Show. Markets are held on the first and third Sunday of the month at Lismore Shopping Square.

Things to see:  

Tourist Information
The Lismore Visitor and Heritage Centre is located at the corner of the Bruxner Highway and Molesworth St. It features the 'Rainforest Experience' - a rather elaborate and quite authentic-looking indoor recreation of a rainforest environment complete with sound effects, button-operated animals, a waterfall, a bridge, separate video displays demonstrating what is happening on the ground, the middle and the canopy of a rainforest, a section on the history of the area and a large gallery of local arts and crafts for which the area is noted. Enquiries can also be made here concerning self-drive tours around the area, tel: (02) 6622 0122.

Nearby Heritage Park has free barbecue facilities, a playground and miniature train rides.

 

Cedar Log Memorial
Nearby, in Ballina St, is a small park adjacent the city hall which is home to the Cedar Log Memorial. This 16-metre log is a reminder of the magnificent timber that once festooned the entire valley. Ironically it is intended as a tribute to the cedargetters who chopped it down.

 

Museum
Proceed up Molesworth St. To the left, at no.165, are the old council chambers. Upstairs is the Richmond River Historical Society Museum which features some fine colonial furniture made of local cedar and other pioneering relics, geological specimens, Aboriginal artefacts and a photographic collection. They are open weekdays from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6621 9993. This building is located on the edge of attractive Spinks Park which overlooks Wilsons River.

 

Art Gallery
A little further along Molesworth St, at the Magellan St corner, is the Lismore Regional Art Gallery, tel: (02) 6622 2209.

 

Post Office
Opposite the museum is W.L. Vernon's excellent Art Nouveau post office (1897) with its fine brickwork, sandstone masonry, fretwork cupola and massive tower. Its location is a reminder of the river's centrality to the development of the city.

Proceed north along Molesworth St for one block. The T & G Building, at the Woodlark St corner, was built in 1891 to an Italian villa style by the Australian Joint Stock Bank.

 

 

The Court House

 

Courthouse
Proceed along Molesworth St for another block and turn right into Zadoc St. The imposing Classical Revival courthouse (1883), with its grand stairway, makes an impressive contribution to the streetscape.

 

Churches
Opposite is St Andrew's Anglican Church (1904 with additions in 1913 and 1935) which overlooks the river. It replaced the original timber church (1871).

Turn right into Keen St then, at its end, turn right into Orion St. At the Leycester St corner is St Carthage's Roman Catholic Cathedral (1892-1907) which has some fine woodwork and stained-glass work and a rich interior.

Return to Keen St. At the corner of Keen and Woodlark St is the Uniting (formerly Methodist) Church (1908-09) and at Keen and Magellan is the 'Byzantine-inspired' Church of Christ (1923). At Keen and Conway is St Paul's Presbyterian Church (1907-08) which replaced an 1881 original.

 

St Andrews Anglican Church

 

 

Rotary Park
In Rotary Park, a rainforest tract (a small remnant of the 'Big Scrub') has been regenerated in the middle of the city. There are 3 km of pathways with rare species of rainforest plants clearly marked. A brochure is available from the information centre. To get there follow Ballina St (the Bruxner Highway) east of the information centre for 3.5 km and turn left at the roundabout into Rotary Drive.

 

Claude Riley Memorial Lookout
The next left at the same roundabout leads into New Ballina Rd. Along here, to the left, is the Claude Riley Memorial Lookout which overlooks the town's residential districts.

 

Lismore Lake
Lismore Lake, 2.5 km south of the CBD on the eastern side of Union St (the south-bound leg of the Bruxner Highway), is a pleasant 14-ha artificial lagoon for swimming with picnic-barbecue facilities and an adventure park on the foreshores.

 

Robinsons Lookout
Robinsons Lookout on Girards Hill offers views west over the river to South Lismore and north over the town to Blue Knob, Mt Nardi and Mt Matheson. Turn south off Ballina St (the eastbound leg of the Bruxner Highway) into Wyrallah St. After 500 m turn right into Esmonde St then take the third left into Robinsons Rd.

 

Wilsons Park
Also along Wyrallah St (2 km from Ballina St), on the western side of the road, is Wilsons Park which contains a remnant of the area's original rainforest vegetation. The rainforest trees are labelled.

 

Bora Ring
Wyrallah St heads southwards out of Lismore towards Woodburn. 12 km from Lismore is the village of Wyrallah. Just to its south there is a signposted turnoff on the left to an excellent example of an Aboriginal bora ring: a circular cleared area measuring 22 metres in diameter is bounded by a bank of earth forming a ceremonial site. The ring overlooks the Steve King's Plain and a portion of the Richmond Valley. There is an information board at the site which lies to the rear of the Tucki Tucki village cemetery.

 

Tucki Tucki Koala Reserve
A few kilometres further south, adjacent the Wyrallah Rd (15 km from Lismore) is Tucki Tucki Koala Reserve (4 ha). It was established by local residents to preserve a habitat for the disappearing marsupials. There are picnic tables and a short, graded walking track steers you in the right direction.

 

Victoria Park
Victoria Park Nature Reserve (16 km south-east) represents an 18-hectare remnant of the 'Big Scrub'. Head south off the Bruxner Highway into Rous Rd at the eastern edge of Lismore and follow the signs for Tregeagle then Rous Mill (which is a place and not a mill) then Wardell. There is all-vehicles access, a walking track from the carpark, a boardwalk for those with disabilities, an information bay, tables, fireplaces, toilets, water and shelter.

 

Alphadale
11 km east at the corner of the Bruxner Highway and Cowlong Rd, Alphadale, has a number of arts and crafts studios and the tone of the town is shaped by the alternative lifestyles of the surrounding communities.

 

Boatharbour Nature Reserve
Boatharbour Nature Reserve, 6 km north-east of the CBD along the Bangalow Rd, has a resident bat colony. This was a base camp for timbergetters working in the 'Big Scrub' in the late 19th century. A paved track leads to a viewing platform overlooking the river. There are barbecue facilities.

 

Bexhill
Bexhill (initially the Bald Hill cedar camp) is located 9 km north-east of Lismore along the Bangalow Road. It was a more important settlement than Lismore in the 1850s. The hall and public school are of interest.

Turn right in front of the post office across the bridge and then immediately left up a steep hill to Inspiration Point which offers fine views of the Corndale Valley. There you will find the Open Air Cathedral with its stone altar, log pews and cross. It was created by the Bexhill Youth Fellowship in 1958. Below the point is the well-attended Bexhill Church (1926) which boasts an organ that draws players from as far afield as Sydney and Brisbane to its recitals.

 

Eltham
Another 2 km along the same road is a turnoff on the right to the small village of Eltham which has some interesting old buildings such as the hotel, St Mark's Anglican Church and the masonic temple on the hill to its rear. A left turn near the church leads back to the main road. A right turn leads to Clunes.

 

 

Clunes Coronation Hall

 

Clunes
Clunes is a small village located 7 km north-east of Bexhill along the Bangalow Rd. In 1892, Clunes was the meeting place for a group of dairy farmers who went on to establish the North Coast Dairying Co-operative, or Norco as it is more familiarly known. This was a major event in local history as dairying would become the dominant industry in the area in the 20th century.

The through-road leads past St John's Presbyterian Church (1910) on the left and St Peter's Anglican Church (1906) on the right. After the latter, take the next sharp left to see the Methodist (now Uniting) Church and manse. Opposite is the Coronation Hall (1910).

 

The Channon
The Channon is a pretty village perched on a hilltop which is noted for its artistic alternative community. The premier markets in the area are held at Coronation Park on the second Sunday of each month. They are an ideal place to check out the rich arts and crafts of the area. Opera at The Channon is a black-tie event held on the first of August. The village is named after a local palm, the sight of which, it is believed, helped Aborigines navigate their way from the coast. It has a tavern and camping grounds.

To get there head out of Lismore on Dunoon Rd and follow it for about 14 km. About 3 km before you reach Dunoon turn left for The Channon.

 

Nightcap National Park
If you turn right at The Channon onto Terania Creek Rd (unsealed, narrow and rough for large vehicles) it leads, after 9.5 km, to the Protester Falls Picnic Area which is located in the Terania Creek basin - a narrow valley of subtropical rainforest and eucalypt forest at the foot of the Nightcap Range in the eastern section of Nightcap National Park. There are two causeways en route so be careful in wet weather.

At the picnic area there is a turning circle set within a glade of the rainforest. It is a 1.4-km return walk to Protesters Falls which is set amidst beautiful rainforest featuring dense thickets of bangalow palms. The falls were named after the protesters who carried on an anti-logging campaign here in the late 1970s and early 1980s which led to the declaration of the national park in 1983. Another walk follows an old logging track adjacent Terania Creek.

The ridges, peaks and gullies of Nightcap National Park (4945 ha) consist of solidified and eroded lava from the extinct Mt Warning volcano which once covered 4000 square kilometres from Coraki in the south to Beenleigh in the north, from Kyogle in the west to the volcanic reefs in the ocean to the east. The fertile soil which derived from the igneous rock, together with the state's highest rainfall, have created one of the state's finest sections of subtropical rainforest. Some of the park's enormous brush box are thought to be up to 1500 years old. The park is also of spiritual importance to the Bundjalung Aboriginal people and is now World Heritage listed. For further information ring (02) 6672 6360 on weekdays.

 

Dunoon and Rocky Creek Dam
Dunoon is located 17 km north-north-east of Lismore along Dunoon Rd (3 km beyond the turnoff to The Channon) and is noted for its macadamia plantations and orchids. On the left, as you enter town, is St Andrew's Presbyterian Church.

The second road on the left (a 3-km strip of bitumen and gravel) leads to the Rocky Creek Dam Picnic Area which overlooks the lake with its mountainous background. As Rocky Creek is the main water supply for Lismore, fishing, swimming and boating are prohibited. There are picnic-barbecue facilities with wood supplied, a shelter shed, a playground, drinking water and walking tracks. A boardwalk leads by Platypus Lagoon.

 

Whian Whian State Forest
Rocky Creek Dam is located within Whian Whian State Forest which is traversed by an enjoyable 30-km loop drive that starts at Minyon Falls and finishes near the Rocky Creek Dam Picnic Area. Guiding leaflets are available from the Lismore Information Centre.

To get to the start of the drive, follow the main road through Dunoon, past the turnoff to the Rocky Creek Dam Picnic Area and simply follow the signs for Minyon Falls.

About 2 km before you reach the falls, Minyon Drive will take you past the Minyon Grass Picnic Area. A 2-km walking track leads to the base of the falls. Alternatively, continue in your car along Minyon Drive to a picnic area and recreation site by the falls which tumble 97 m down sheer cliffs, formed by solidified lava, into the beautiful gorge below. They are part of the Minyon Falls Flora Reserve which has been exempted from all logging due to its high recreational, scenic and scientific value. A board in the picnic area indicates the whereabouts of a nearby walking-trail complex. The departure track, which takes in a lookout over Minyon Falls, follows the rim of the escarpment for about 2 km around to Quandong Falls. From this point you can return to the picnic area or continue on for another 2 km to the valley floor at the base of the falls. Its quite easy going down but a steep walk back.

Return to your car. Follow the main forest drive then turn right at Peates Mountain Road. 200 m will bring you to Rummery Park, a grassy clearing amidst regrowth forest where koalas live. There are picnic and camping facilities. A relatively easy 3-km walking track leads to Peates Mountain Lookout. The Boggy Creek Track (2 km) and Eastern Boundary Track (2.5 km) both lead back to the Minyon Falls Picnic Area.

For those who wish to stick to their cars, continue along Peates Mountain Road. 3.5 km beyond Rummery Park is a signposted turnoff to a parking area and it is a 10-minute walk to Peates Mountain Lookout (600 m) which offers views southwards over rich farmlands to Lismore, northwards to Mt Warning and east to Byron Bay.

Return along Peates Mountain Road to the main forest drive which continues westwards through blackbutt and flooded gum plantations, across Rocky Creek, past the Gibbergunyah Roadside Reserve and, in the final 2 km, through the Big Scrub Flora Reserve which is the largest surviving remnant of the 'Big Scrub'.

The forest road reaches a T-intersection with the sealed council road that leads to Rocky Creek Dam Picnic Area. Turn right along this road, then right at the T-intersection to return to Lismore, via Dunoon.

 

Bentley
Bentley, 23 km north-west of Lismore along the Kyogle Road, is noted for the Bentley Art Prize, a substantial award which has a strong Aboriginal art section.

Bentley House was established in the 1870s by Robert Dawson who was born at Great Bentley in England

 

 

 

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Lismore