|
| Entering Coonabarabran
across the Castlereagh River |
Coonabarabran
Substantial rural service centre known as the 'Gateway to
the Warrumbungles' - a beautiful range of mountains in the
Central West.
Coonabarabran is known as the 'Gateway to the Warrumbungles',
a mountain range which arcs around the town to the west,
north and east. Much of it is a popular national park.
Essentially a quiet and attractive country town of 2900
people on the Castlereagh River, Coonabarabran is 451 km
north-west of Sydney between Gilgandra and Gunnedah and 509
m above sea-level.
Wool and wheat are the economic mainstays of the town
though it has capitalised on tourism provided by its
proximity to the Warrumbungles. There is also a strong
timber industry based in the Pilliga Scrub to the
north-west.
The town's name derives from the language of the
Kamilaroi people who inhabited the area prior to white
settlement, though its meaning is now highly uncertain.
The first European to discover the Castlereagh River was
George Evans, a member of John Oxley's 1818 party which
passed 25 km to the north during the expedition which led to
the European discovery of the Liverpool Plains.
The 'Cooleburbaran' sheep run was established in 1836
and, in the late 1840s, became known as 'Coolabarabyan' when
it was owned by James Weston who grew wheat and established
a mill. By 1848 a man named William Field owned the land
opposite on the northern bank of the river.
|
| The park beside the
Castlereagh River |
The two men had selected land around a river crossing on
the 'Old Wool Road' which joined the inland to the river
port of Morpeth. When settlement of Queensland proceeded,
the wool trade from the north also crossed the river at this
point. Both men realised the potential of the site and each
established a store and hotel on opposite sides of the
crossing.
Other buildings developed, including a blacksmith's, a
Presbyterian school and a post office which opened in 1850.
A small police force was posted to the town as early as
1857. A survey of the townsite was conducted in 1859 and
land sales proceeded in 1860 when the first courthouse and
lock-up were built.
Australia's only Chinese bushranger, Sam Poo, was active
in the district in 1865 but was caught and hung that year
after killing a police officer.
A public school was built in 1870. The following year the
population was still only 163 but it more than doubled in
the 1870s. All of the major religious denominations built
churches in the course of the decade. Cobb and Co
established a coach service through the town in 1876. A
shire hall, sawmill and newspaper were established the next
year, and a new sandstone courthouse was built in 1878.
Further expansion occurred in the 1880s with improved
roads and services, new and more specialised stores, banks,
the establishment of the local agricultural show and a
bridge over the Castlereagh in 1885 (replaced in 1926),
though drought followed by a plague of kangaroos and emus
caused economic hardship.
After weathering the depression of the 1890s the town
became a quiet service centre. A tourist orientation seemed
to be in operation by 1904 when Coonabarabran became known
as the 'Katoomba of the north west'. This development was
enhanced, along with local primary industry, when the
railway arrived in 1917.
Australian novelist Kylie Tennant re-met and married her
husband while he was teaching at Coonabarabran in 1932. Her
novel Tiburon (1935) depicts the town during the Great
Depression.
The 10-day Warrumbungle Festival of the Stars is held in
October and it focuses on astronomy, the arts and the
Aboriginal heritage of the area, with workshops,
performances, a rocket-launching evening, Aboriginal artists
and storytellers. There is also an Easter Carnival, with
markets on Easter Saturday.
Things to see:
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Tourist Information
The Coonabarabran Visitors' Centre is located on the Newell
Highway, tel: (02) 6842 1441. They can furnish information
about local farmstays, horse riding, scenic flights, guided
tours and tourist drives and can sell you a Super Nova
Ticket, allowing you to see both the Skywatch and Siding
Spring Observatories at a discounted price.
Tune to FM 88 for a radio broadcast of local information.
Australian Natural History Museum
A display relating to ancient Australian megafauna, it
includes the most complete skeleton in Australia of a
diprotodon, the largest known marsupial that has lived.
Something like a buffalo-sized wombat, it roamed the area 34
000 years ago. There is also a small local history
collection and a display relating to Dreamtime legends.
School groups are catered for if advance arrangements are
made. The museum is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.,
tel: (02) 6842 1441.
Skywatch Night & Day Observatory
2 km west of the town centre, on the National Park Rd, is
the Skywatch Observatory. Its attractions include hands-on
usage of powerful telescopes as well as simulated computer
games, a theatrette, a pictorial history of astronomy, a
special planetarium, a gift shop, snacks and a mini-golf
course with an astronomy theme. The observatory is open each
day from 2.00 p.m. to 5.00 p.m. with night-sky viewing from
sundown (astronomy session times vary seasonally), tel: (02)
6842 3303. For more information check out
http://www.lisp.com.au./~skywatch
Siding Spring Observatory
24 km west, in the Warrumbungle Range, is Siding Spring
Observatory, a complex of international importance which has
the largest optical research telescope in Australia (3.9 m).
It is a hands-on experience with an interactive exhibition,
a theatrette, a science gift shop and cafeteria. They are
open from 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m daily and guided tours for
groups can be arranged, tel: (02) 6842 6211.
Warrumbungle National Park
27 km west of Coonabarabran is Warrumbungle National Park,
one of the state's most popular parks. It is easily
accessible, has good facilities and provides excellent
opportunities for family recreation.
The Warrumbungle Range is a 130-km spur of the Great
Dividing Range. Of volcanic origin there are some striking
formations made of trachyte - a fast-drying lava which plugs
volcanic craters and remains after the softer surrounding
cones have eroded, leaving some remarkable ridges, spires
and domes; the best-known being the Breadknife, 90 m high
and one metre thick.
Before white settlement this area provided shelter and
food for the Kamilaroi people. John Oxley was the first
European to sight them in 1818.
Splendid wildflowers bloom in spring and early summer.
There are 180 species of birds and plenty of other fauna,
including koalas and kangaroos.
Soon after you enter the park there is a signposted
parking area to the left at the start of the short walking
track to the outstanding Whitegum Lookout (1.1 km return).
In all there are 30 km of walking tracks of varying lengths,
qualities and grades of difficulty. They are outlined in
material available from the visitors' centre in the park or
at Coonabarabran.
8 km west of the lookout is the visitors' centre which
has information relating to the park's lay-out, natural
features and accommodation. Fees for all visitors are
payable here. It is open from 8.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. daily,
tel: (02) 6825 4364 .
Canyon Camp is a day-use picnic area with free electric
barbecues. The discovery program operates throughout the
year, particularly in school holidays. It includes
ranger-guided walks and activities, Aboriginal cultural
walks, children's activities and information and slide
evenings.
Crystal Kingdom
Crystal Kingdom houses 'Minerals of the Warrumbungles' - a
collection of the world's most colourful and rare zeolite
crystals, found locally. There is a huge crystal cave, as
well as local fossils and a gift shop which has jewellery,
including set and unset gemstones. A guide is on hand to
explain the geological history of the Warrumbungles and the
development and qualities of the crystals. It is located at
the corner of Chappell St (the Oxley Highway) and North St,
500 m north of the bridge, and is open from 8.00 a.m. to
5.00 p.m. daily, tel: (02) 6842 1927.
Pilliga Pottery
Pilliga Pottery consists of a mudbrick workshop and
showrooms and a bush cafe serving Devonshire teas. They are
open seven days a week, tel: (02) 6842 2239. Head north-east
towards Narrabri on the Newell Highway and take the
signposted left 23 km from Coonabarabran.
Hickey's Falls
Hickey's Falls are located at the end of a short walking
track which departs from a roadside stop, 42 km south-west
of Coonabarabran on the Oxley Highway, en route to
Gilgandra. There is a pleasant waterhole for swimming in
summer, as well as picnic and barbecue facilities.
Sandstone Caves
The caves, formed by the natural erosion of a soft sandstone
area, are closed from September to November to allow for the
safe breeding of an endangered bird species. They are
located north-west via the Newell Highway but can only be
visited by arrangement with the visitors' centre. There is a
small entry fee, tel: (02) 6842 1441.
Pilliga Scrub
The vast cypress pine forests of the Pilliga Scrub lie to
the north-west of town (see entry on Baradine). Detailed
maps, drinking water and dry weather are a necessity. The
maps can be purchased from the Coonabarabran Visitors'
Centre.
Warrumbungle Light Aboriginal Culture and Ecological
Tours
A day tour with Warrumbungle Light Aboriginal Culture and
Ecological Tours takes in ochre sites, toolmaking sites,
rock paintings, engravings, artefacts, bone caves, swamp and
bushland, with commentary on Aboriginal history and culture,
and local ecology.
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