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| View across Lake
Macquarie |
Cooranbong
Quiet rural town now being absorbed into the larger city
of Lake Macquarie
Located 116 km north of Sydney via the Newcastle Freeway,
Cooranbong is situated at the base of the Watagan Mountains
on the western side of Lake Macquarie. It is a rapidly
growing town within the City of Lake Macquarie.
'Cooranbong' comes from the language of the area's
earlier inhabitants, the Awabakal Aborigines, and is said to
mean 'rocky bottom creek' or 'water over rocks' - presumably
references to Dora Creek which runs eastwards from the
settlement to Lake Macquarie.
Lieutenant Percy Simpson was probably the first European
settler in the whole Lake Macquarie area. He received a
2000-acre grant in 1826, was assigned six convicts who
cleared the land, grazed cattle, and built a homestead and
stockyards near a ford over Dora Creek. He left after two
years but one of his convicts, Moses Carroll, stayed on as a
stockman and was made constable of the area in 1834.
Although settlers were thin on the ground, convict escapees,
cattle thieves, timber-getters and the indigenous
inhabitants caused him some difficulties.
It was the Robertson Land Act of 1861 which saw the
township develop as it enabled small selectors to buy up
plots near the Dora Creek ford. A Catholic Church was built
that same year (it also functioned as a school). A post
office and Anglican church followed. Timber was the backbone
of the local economy and four large steam-driven timber
mills were operating in the area in the 1870s. The cedar was
loaded on to ketches at the creekside and sent off to Lake
Macquarie with supplies returned by the same route.
The local economy expanded and the population increased.
As a sign of its development a police station and courthouse
were established in 1873. The first ferry service on the
lake was started in 1876 and a post office opened in 1881
(the building is still standing in Martinsville Rd, now a
private residence). Cooranbong also benefited from its role
as a a staging post on the trek between Sydney and
Newcastle. By the 1880s, when the population reached 700,
there were four stores, two schools, three hotels and four
wine bars.
However, when Sydney and Newcastle were linked by rail in
the late 1880s the line passed 5 km to the east of
Cooranbong. Although the station was initially called
Cooranbong the settlement around the station became known as
Morisset. Consequently economic activity at Cooranbong
tailed off. Commercial shipping virtually ceased and the
completion of the railway line ended contracts for local
timber used to create railway sleepers. Moreover a general
economic depression hit in the 1890s.
The population had dropped to 206 by 1891. However, the
town's decline meant a fall in land prices and the town
managed to struggle on when this attracted the Seventh Day
Adventists who bought 1500 acres of land on the northern
bank of Dora Creek and established Avondale College in 1897
and Sanitarium Health Foods in 1909. The population is now
around 4500.
Things to see:
Koolewong Coastal Ecotours
If you want to experience the local area accompanied by an
expert local guide and are interested in the ecology, fauna
and flora of the district then double click here and check
out Koolewong
Coastal Ecotours. Details of their tours are provided.
Koolewong Coastal Ecotours are conducted within the
Brisbane Water and Bouddi National Parks on the NSW Central
Coast. The trained Ecotour Guides have extensive local
knowledge of the flora and fauna of the native bushland.
Travellers are picked up from their Hotel from 8.30am and
and are returned by around 5.30pm. Optional starting and
return times can be booked where required.
Historic Buildings
The town's two historic buildings are both located in
Martinsville Rd (signposted as Watagan Forest Rd) which runs
west off Freemans Drive (the main thoroughfare). The
Catholic Church of St Patrick and St Brigid, virtually on
the corner, was built in 1906 to replace the original 1861
structure. The oldest headstone dates back to 1862.
Just up the road, to the left, on the corner of
Martinsville and Government Rds, is the old sandstone post
office with its small front and rear porches and cast-iron
lacework. Built in 1881 it is now a private residence though
it still has 'Post Office' inscribed underneath the gable at
the side of the building.
The Elephant Shop
A little further north along Freemans Drive is a little
shopping centre to the left where you will find The Elephant
Shop where there is a large selection of amethysts, agate,
onyxware, crystals, rock and mineral specimens, hand-carved
furniture and goods from South-East Asia. It is open from
Sunday to Friday. You can check out the shop by going to
http://www.elephantshop.com.au.
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| College Hall at Avondale
College |
Avondale College
Opposite is Central Ave, the driveway of Avondale College.
There are tours of the college, opened 1897, and the
Sanitarium Health Food factory they own and operate. The
college is set in a 325-ha property and incorporates a fine
church building as well as a number of heritage listed
buildings including Bethal Hall and the College Hall. Bethel
Hall was completed in 1897. The original structure was a New
England building with a thatched roof (which has been
replaced with a tin roof) designed to serve as Women's
dormitory and assembly room. It currently houses Marketing,
Public Relations and Administrative Services & Planning.
College Hall was built early 1899, it is also New England
in architecture, designed by one of the Kellogg brothers.
Originally College Hall held classrooms, the principal's
office, two primary school classrooms, library and chapel
room. It currently houses Student Services and Student
Government. Contact. (02) 4980 2251.
Sunnyside and South Sea Islands Museum
Further north along Freemans Drive, Avondale Rd runs off to
the right. The museum is located at number 27. Seventh-day
Adventist Ellen White, a significant figure in local church
history, visited the area in 1891 and built the house in
1895. A large outbuilding now contains a large, impressive
and historical collection of South Sea Island artefacts,
gathered by the church during its missionary work in the
South Sea Islands. Some of the material dates back to the
19th century, including an enormous war canoe and items used
by cannibals during human sacrifices. It is open Saturdays
to Thursdays from 2.00 p.m. - 4.00 p.m., contact (02) 4977
2501.
The Watagans
Cooranbong is probably the best town to access the 13
forests scattered throughout the Watagan Mountains which lie
to the west of Lake Macquarie and the Tuggerah Lakes. There
are some outstanding camping sites, lookouts, walking
trails, picnic areas and well-signposted forest drives.
The Watagans have been exploited for their timber since
the 1830s. The demand for railway sleepers generated by the
construction of the Sydney-Newcastle railway caused a boom
in the late 19th century. During World War II the forests
were almost entirely stripped of their softwoods,
particularly coachwood, which was used for the Diggers' .303
rifle and for the construction of the Mosquito fighter
plane. Most of the houses of the Central Coast, Lake
Macquarie and Hunter Valley have frames made of Watagan
hardwoods. Early timbergetters spotted the enormous red
cedars by climbing a tree and looking for the spray of red
amongst the rainforest greenery.
Head west along Martinsville Rd into the valley formerly
known as The Brush. The first European settlers, the Martin
family, arrived in the 1860s and worked as timbergetters. A
village of farmers and sawyers developed. It was known as
Deep Creek when a slab school was built in 1878. The post
office which opened the following decade was called Dora
Creek, causing conflict with the settlement of that name
north of present-day Morisset. It was renamed The Brush and
became Martinsville in 1894.
Turn left up Martinsville Hill Rd. To the right is a
wishing well where there was once a spring which supplied
the timberworkers. The Wishing Well Picnic Area and walking
trail is a few hundred metres further along to the right.
At the end of this road a left turn leads to Muirs
Lookout and picnic area. There are excellent views eastwards
over Lake Macquarie and beyond to the ocean. Two sets of
stacks are visible: those of Vales Point Power Station on
the southern shore of the lake and those of Eraring on the
western shore. There is a 1-5-km walking trail with
interpretative signs.
Return to the Martinsville Hill Rd intersection and head
north-west along Watagan Forest Rd. The Pines Forest Picnic
Area, one of the district's highlights, is along a short
side-road to the right. Several walking trails, including a
wildflower walk (1 km) and an 8-km walk to Abbotts Falls,
depart from different points along this side-road. The 1-km
Pines Trail takes in an old Aboriginal axe-grinding groove.
A little further along Watagan Forest Rd are the Water
Tower Picnic Area (named after an 18-m water tower built in
1961 for the surveillance of potential forest fires but
demolished in the 1970s due to termite infestation - only
the base of the poles remain) and another turnoff to the
Casuarina and Turpentine Camping Areas.
It is around another 14 km to the Boarding House Dam
turnoff to the left, another highlight of the district.
About the carpark and picnic area is a section of dense,
subtropical rainforest and a small weir built to ensure a
supply of water for bushfires after the ravages of a major
fire in 1939-40. There is plenty of birdlife about. The dam
is a good spot for a swim in summer and there is a somewhat
poorly marked, circular 400-m walking track which follows
the gentle murmur of Congewai Creek and its tranquil
environs for a distance.
Lookout and Scenic Views
Return to Watagan Forest Rd and continue in a north-easterly
direction as the road rises steeply to one of the highest
points in the Watagans (540 m). While one road continues
north-east towards Heaton Lookout, Watagan Forest Rd swerves
to the left towards Cessnock. Follow the latter for about 3
km then turn right into Bakers Rd. You will immediately pass
a signpost for the Great North Walk (just 195 km to Sydney
Cove!), a ranger's station and a camping area to the right.
2 km from this turnoff is the Hunter Lookout, to the left,
and, at the end of the road (another kilometre), Macleans
Lookout. Both have picnic areas and magnificent views. The
former looks westwards and north-west towards Cessnock while
the latter is oriented to the north-west (Cessnock) and
north-east (over Mulbring and beyond to Kurri Kurri with
Maitland in the distance). The two are linked by a 600-m
walking trail. From Macleans the 8-km, one-way Watagan
Track, departs for the Heaton Lookout. It is considered one
of the best in the forests.
Return to the point where Watagan Forest Rd swerves
northwards and follow the road east to Heaton Lookout. After
about 2 km there is a fork in the road. Turn left along
Heaton Rd and after about 1.5 km you will see the lookout on
the roadside to the right. The view is quite fantastic: to
the east the whole of Lake Macquarie with the stacks of its
various power stations scattered about the shore; north to
Newcastle and beyond to Stockton Beach stretching north-east
towards Port Stephens; south over the entire Central Coast
with Tuggerah Lakes in the foreground, Norah Head Lighthouse
on the coast and beyond to Broken Bay and the mouth of the
Hawkesbury. Aside from the aforementioned Watagan Track
there are two shorter circular tracks (750 m and 2.5 km).
Return to the fork and this time head south along Mt
Faulk Rd, once known as the 'unemployed road' as it was
built by those left without work in the general economic
depression of the 1890s which hit the Cooranbong area hard
due to the fact that the railway skirted the town and
contracts for railway sleepers dried up. After about 2 or 3
km is a turnoff to the right to Monkey Mountain Lookout. The
mountain's name derives from a bullock called Monkey after
its abseiling abilities. It liked to hide, in its spare
time, on a mountain shelf which was thus named Monkey Shelf.
Along this road is a fork. To the right is Gap Creek
Lookout which is popular with abseilers. Below is a dense
canopy of subtropical rainforest about Gap Creek which flows
from the base of the falls. To the right the road continues
on to Monkey Mountain Lookout from where there are fine
views southwards over Martinsville Valley. The homestead
below belongs to the Browne family, early settlers and
timbergetters who owned the aforesaid bullock named Monkey.
Return to Mt Faulk Rd and continue south. Keep your eyes
to the right as there is soon another turnoff along Bangalow
Rd, named after the many Bangalow palms amidst the scrub. It
follows Monkey Shelf through an area rich in interesting
birdlife, which can be seen and heard - lyrebirds, king
parrots, crimson rosellas, satin bowerbirds, green catbirds,
whipbirds etc. There are two camping areas along the road
and a carpark at the end from whence there is a walking
trail which follows an old bullock track to the falls. A
side path (now virtually overgrown) leads to The Cave, a
rock overhang once frequented by students from Avondale
Collge who cleared the cave and installed bunks, chairs and
tables for study purposes.
Some of the old stumps along the way still retain the
grooves into which were inserted planks upon which
woodcutters stood in order to fell the tree. The track
forks. The right branch passes along the shelf through the
scrub while the left descends precipitously (beware the
return hike) to the base of the 40-m falls. Unless it has
rained recently there may only be a trickle but the environs
are exceptional anyway and well worth the effort.
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Wrecking Yard for sale in Cooranbong.
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