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Gilgandra
Pleasant service town on the Castlereagh River.
Gilgandra is a smallish country town of 3000 people on the Castlereagh River in NSW's central west. It is situated at the junction of the Newell, Oxley and Castlereagh Highways, between Dubbo and Coonabarabran, 476 km north-west of Sydney and 280 m above sea-level.

Gilgandra is a service centre to a mixed farming area focused principally on cropping, sheep and cattle, although pigs, poultry, aquaculture, ostriches, emus, deer, olives, buffaloes and a eucalypt plantation all contribute to the local economy.

The town's name is said to mean 'long waterhole' and it probably derives from the language of the Wiradjuri people who are thought to have inhabited the area prior to white settlement.

Squatters established the first runs in the district during the 1830s although closer settlement did not emerge until much later. The first building erected on the future town site of Gilgandra was the Bushman's Arms Hotel, licensed in 1866. A bridge over the Castlereagh was built in 1884 and Gilgandra was proclaimed a town in 1888. The railway from Dubbo arrived in 1899.

The following year, Breelong, 18 km to the south-east, was the scene of an infamous multiple murder involving the licensees of the Breelong Inn, John and Sarah Mawbey, who had in their employ several Aboriginal workers, including Jimmy Governor and Jacky Underwood.

Jimmy Governor was a part-Aborigine who had worked as a police tracker before marrying a 16-year-old white woman and obtaining a contract to erect fencing for the Mawbeys. A dedicated employee who wished to prove himself to white society, he was initially on good terms with his employers and their family. However, it seems that Governor's wife, who worked in the Mawbey house, was belittled for marrying an Aborigine by Mrs Mawbey and Helena Kurz, the local schoolteacher who was residing with the Mawbeys.

Whatever the contributing factors, Jimmy and Jacky Underwood confronted the women at the new Mawbey abode while all of the males were staying at the inn. Jimmy claimed that Mrs Mawbey called him 'black rubbish' and asserted that he should be shot for marrying a white woman. Whatever transpired the two men went into a rage and brutally murdered Sarah Mawbey, three of her daughters and Helena Kurz with clubs and a tomahawk. Sarah's sister was badly injured.

Jimmy, his brother Joe, and Jacky Underwood then went on a three-month, 3200-km rampage, inflicting revenge for past grievances. They murdered five more people, wounded another five, committed seven armed hold-ups and robbed 33 homes. A massive manhunt involving hundreds of policemen and trackers and 2000 volunteers failed to capture the men who ridiculed their pursuers by advertising their whereabouts and sending satiric letters to the police.

In October a 1000-pound reward was offered and later in the month they were outlawed, meaning they could be shot on sight by anybody. By the end of the month Jacky was captured, Joe was shot and killed near Singleton (q.v.) and Jimmy was captured by a group of farrmers near Wingham (q.v.) two weeks after being shot in the mouth.

Jimmy and Jacky were hung in January, 1901. In his last days Jimmy sang native songs, read the Bible and blamed his wife. The Gilgandra visitors' centre has a pamphlet detailing the pertinent sites on the old Mawbey estate, though they have all been demolished and are on private property. The four murdered Mawbeys are buried together in Gilgandra cemetery. There is a large stone monument behind a wire fence in the Church of England portion. Noted author Thomas Keneally based his novel 'The Chant of Jimmy Blacksmith' on the life of Jimmy Governor and that novel has been made into a film.

Today, Gilgandra is publicised as the 'Home of the Coo-ees'. This is a reference to the occasion in 1915 when 35 local men decided to set off from Gilgandra on the first recruiting march of World War I. Having received no support from the Army the men walked 500 km to Sydney in six weeks, proclaiming their arrival in a town with the bushman's cry for help, 'coo-ee!'. They received much publicity along the way and arrived in Sydney, 263 strong. The event sparked seven other such marches from rural centres.

After the war Gilgandra was awarded 1200 by St Ambrose Parish of Bournemouth in England as it was considered to have made the greatest war effort of all the towns in the British Empire. The gift was strictly to be used for the construction of an Anglican Church bearing the name of the Bournemouth parish. St Ambrose Anglican Church was dedicated in 1922.

Gilgandra's annual celebrations include the Coo-ee Festival which is held over the October long weekend. There is also an Easter Vintage Farm Rally and an agricultural show in May. The feature film, 'No Worries' (1992) was produced in Gilgandra.


 

Things to see:   

Tourist Information Centre, Coo-ee Park and the Gilgandra Museum
Tune to FM 88 for a radio broadcast of local information. The Visitors' Information Centre is located in Coo-ee March Memorial Park, on the Newell Highway, tel: (02) 6847 2045. It is open seven days from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.and sells gifts and souvenirs and a range of local books and art. They can also furnish information concerning farmstays and tour guide services. They can be emailed at gilinfo@tpg.com.au.

Adjacent is the Gilgandra Museum containing local memorabilia, most notably the Coo-ee March Memorial Room. It relates to the occasion in 1915 when 35 men set off on a six-week, 500-km trek to Sydney as part of the first recruiting march of World War I.

There are also artefacts and pictures relating to the murders which occurred in 1900 at Breelong, 18 km south-east of Gilgandra, on the road to Mendooran. The Governor brothers and Jacky Underwood, all in the employ of Jack Mawbey, murdered Sarah Mawbey, three of her children and Helena Kurz, the local schoolteacher.

 

Rural Museum
Also in the park is Gilgandra's Rural Museum. It contains local history artefacts and specialises in Australian-invented rural machinery of yesteryear. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. on weekends and school holidays, or by prior arrangement through the visitors' centre. There is an annual steam engine rally on Easter Saturday.

The windmill out the front has symbolic value as there were 300 in operation by the 1950s, earning Gilgandra the title 'The Windmill Town'. They were used to pump up sub-artesian water until 1966. An Avenue of Windmills is being established in the park, displaying various types and sizes.

 

Gilgandra Observatory
The Gilgandra Observatory and Display Centre is located in Willie St, just off the Newell Hwy. Aside from opportunities to view the rings of Saturn, sun spots, the moons and Great Red Spot of Jupiter, there are astronomical displays as well as rocks, fossils, petrified wood and native flora. The centre is usually open from 12.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m.on weekdays and from 7.00 p.m. to 10.00 p.m. every night but Sunday when it is closed. During daylight savings the nightly hours are 8.30 p.m. to 10.00 p.m and in the school holidays the observatory is open seven evenings a week, tel: (02) 6847 2646.

 

Flora Reserve
The Gilgandra Native Flora Reserve is 8.5 ha of remnant bushland which features many plant species, particularly local wildflowers which are best seen from September to November. There are picnic and barbecue facilities. To get there head north-east on the Oxley Highway towards Coonabarabran for 8 km then turn right into Flora Reserve Rd (well signposted). Admission is free and it is open every day.

 

Orana Cactus World
Orana Cactus World is located 1 km south of Gilgandra on the Newell Highway towards Dubbo. It features both native and exotic species and is open by appointment, tel: (02) 6847 2642.

 

Arboretum
The Jack McGirr Arboretum is located on the Newell Highway, opposite the Rotary Caravan Park, on the Castlereagh River. Paul McGirr donated these six acres in memory of his son and daughter, who both died of SIDS. It is intended as a peaceful rest and recreation area for children. Anyone can dedicate a memorial tree to a SIDS child (see Chris Keen of the caravan park).

 

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Phone: 1300 136 559

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Gilgandra