|
| View over Maclean and the
Clarence River from near the Scottish cairn
|
Maclean (including Brooms Head and Lawrence)
Town on the Clarence River with strong Scottish
connections.
Maclean is located on several hills adjacent the Pacific
Highway, 667 km north-east of Sydney. It is one of those
remarkable towns which has an excess of attractive buildings
and unusual things to see.
Maclean is situated at the confluence of the southern and
northern arms of the Clarence River. At only 6 metres above
sea-level it has been ravaged by the river with some
regularity so that it is now protected by a very substantial
levee bank adjacent the northern end of the main street
(River St). On the western side of the levee wall is the
fishing fleet. The Clarence River is a major source of the
nation's seafood with the river being trawled for prawns as
far as Ulmarra. Maclean is at the southern limit of the
Australian sugar crop which extends north from here to
Cairns. Timber, maize, mixed crops and tourism also buttress
the local economy.
In recent times the local council has been promoting
Maclean as 'Australia's first Scottish town' - in
recognition of the large numbers of Scottish settlers
amongst the early selectors. They have succeeded up to a
point as many of the street signs are now in both Gaelic and
English. Even the Bicentennial Scottish Cairn has its
inscription in both English and Gaelic with a passage from
Proverbs 22.28 reading 'Na atharraich an seann
chonharadhcriche a shuidhich d¹aithrichean'. They have even
put tartans on the telegraph posts around the town.
|
| A telegraph post painted
in a suitable Scottish tartan |
However, the original human occupants were the Aborigines
(possibly the Gumbaingirr or Yaygir clans). These people
lived within a fairly small, well-defined area as the
plenitude of resources negated the need for lengthy
migrations. It also appears to have rendered them healthier
and taller than inland groups while their semi-sedentary
lifestyle fostered a material culture of greater perfection
(i.e., superior domiciles, utensils, baskets and fishing
nets etc). European observers spoke highly of their crafts,
skills, mores, material culture and intelligence. While they
coexisted peacefully with the timbergetters and
pastoralists, the advent of agriculture with the free
selectors of the 1860s destroyed the hunting grounds and
decimated the culture of the original inhabitants.
Matthew Flinders investigated the river mouth in 1799. He
set foot on both the southern headland (on the present-day
site of
Yamba) and the northern headland (now
Iluka ) and wrote about the lifestyle of the Aborigines
he came in contact with. However, he found the waters
shallow and dismissed the whole area as 'deserving of no
more than a superficial examination'. In fact, Flinders
mistook the inlet for a coastal bay and did not imagine
there was a major river nearby.
It is thought that convict escapees from Moreton Bay
passed through the area in the late 1820s and early 1830s.
One of their number, Richard Craig, reported a big river and
a plenitude of valuable timber when he arrived at Port
Macquarie in 1832. He was later employed by a Thomas Small
of Sydney who, inspired by Craig's reports, sent off his
brother and two dozen sawyers on board the schooner, the
Susan, to the 'Big River'. It was the first European vessel
to enter the river. The party set up camp on the future site
of Maclean and other cedar-cutters soon followed in their
wake. Small took up a large parcel of land on Woodford
Island, opening the way for other landholders along the
river that Governor Gipps named the Clarence in 1839.
The Clarence Valley was surveyed east of the Orara
junction in 1849 and the name Rocky Mouth was bestowed upon
the area around present-day Maclean. A man named Chowne had
a shipyard there in the 1850s.
The village was laid out in 1862. The surveyor named it
after the surveyor-general, Alexander McLean. Many of the
initial settlers were farmers who were born in the Highlands
of Scotland and who were branching out from the Hunter
Valley, although there were also many of Irish and German
origin.
Maize was initially the only product cultivated for
market purposes. The American Civil War created a profitable
market for cotton which was established at that time but
'sugar fever' struck after initial experiments c.1865.
Several mills were set up and nearby Harwood has the oldest
operating sugar mill in Australia (1874). Wheat, bananas and
arrowroot were also grown but only dairying challenged the
primacy of sugar from the 1890s to the 1960s.
Maclean was declared a municipality in 1887 and a shire
in 1957. Its current population is around 3500.
The Maclean Cane Harvest Festival is held annually in
early spring (usually the September-October NSW school
holidays) and the Highland Gathering at Easter. Not
surprisingly, Maclean is noted for its excellent fishing.
Waterskiing, sailing and houseboats are also popular.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
The town's information centre is located at Ferry Park on
the Pacific Highway, at the southern turnoff to Maclean.
There is an arts-and-crafts gallery and a restaurant with a
balcony overlooking the river. They can furnish a list of
art-and-craft galleries in the area and information about
houseboat hire, river cruises and horseriding. There is also
a pamphlet outlining some of the town's attractions and
their whereabouts. The park has picnic facilities and
toilets, tel: (02) 6645 4121.
Lower Clarence Aboriginal Tourist Site Drive
The information centre can also furnish a self-drive
pamphlet outlining 13 significant Aboriginal sites in the
area.
Two Churches
At the southern end of River St, near the Church St
intersection, is the former Methodist (now Uniting) Church
(1890). Continue along River St. As it bends to the left,
turn right into Wharf St. To the immediate right is the Free
Presbyterian Church which has been in continuous use since
its construction in 1867 by the early Scottish settlers.
|
| The former Brewery with
its arched entry |
Bicentennial Museum
Continue along Wharf St for 500 m. At the intersection of
Wharf St and Grafton St is the excellent Bicentennial Museum
which is open from 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. on Wednesdays and
Saturdays, from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. on Fridays or by
arrangement, tel: (02) 6645 3416.
The cottage was built in 1879 from local sandstone and it
has been set up as a Maclean house of the 1880s with
contemporary artefacts. The large adjacent folk museum
display includes some particularly fine examples of sulkies
and carriages.
The Lookout and The Pinnacle
Continue up Wharf St for another 1.5 km to The Lookout which
offers fine views over the town and the district's cane
fields, east along the Clarence River to Yamba and Iluka at
the river's mouth, and along the coast. 200 metres from The
Lookout is The Pinnacle, a balancing rock formation and cave
network.
Bicentennial Scottish Cairn
Return along Wharf St. Halfway down the hill turn left into
Bent St for a view of the Scottish Cairn which is a neatly
cemented pile of rocks from all over Australia and from
Scotland. It is located in the Herb Stanford Memorial Park
at the intersection of Bent St, Taloumbi St and Harwood St
which also affords fine views of the town and river.
Heritage Buildings
Head west along Taloumbi St for two blocks, turn right into
Woodford St and proceed north for two blocks to Stanley St.
Turn left. To the right is the former brewery (1870) which
has been converted into two houses but still retains the
archway into the courtyard and the charm of the original
building.
Return along Stanley St and turn left, back into Woodford
St. To the right, on elevated land, is St Mary's Catholic
Church (1894), a beautiful stone Gothic building with a
tower capped by battlements. The grounds offer attractive
views over the valley.
Adjacent in Woodford St is the Maclean Primary School
(1902), a red-brick, two-storey structure with fine
detailing.
|
| The Former Operating
Theatre |
Continue to the end of Woodford St and turn right into
Union St. To the left, adjacent the hospital, is the former
operating theatre (1886), a building with a name that belies
its charm. It is a free-standing timber construction now
located in front of the retirement village.
Head west along Union St, past the hospital, and take the
first right into McLachlan St then take the first left into
Howard St. At 2B is Gables Bed-and-Breakfast, located in the
town's oldest-surviving building (1864).
At the end of Howard St turn left into River St and
proceed south along the waterfront and shopping strip, past
McLachlan Park and Bicentennial Wharf. To the right, just
before you pass the RSL Club, is a bank building which dates
back to 1878 when it was built for the Australian Joint
Stock Bank. The present facade was added in 1893.
Civic Buildings
Continue down River St, taking the next right at the post
office into MacNaughton Place (named after early settler
Samuel MacNaughton who once owned most of the land in the
CBD).
The post office, designed by W.L. Vernon, dates from
1893. Further along MacNaughton Place is the police station
(1895-96). At its end and off to the left, beside the river,
is Maclean's very handsome courthouse which was designed by
James Barnet and built in 1891. It must surely have the most
attractive location in the town, although it is very
vulnerable to flooding. Its physical orientation harks back
to a day when the river was the town's focal point in terms
of business, transport and communication.
|
| The Court House
|
Fishing and Boat Ramps - Chatsworth Island, Ashby,
Cowper, Woodford Island and Lawrence
Maclean's information centre can furnish several items of
use to anglers. One is the 'Clarence River Fishing Guide'.
It includes a tide chart and up-to-date information
concerning which species are about in which seasons, a list
of fishing spots within the estuary and along the coastline
and which fish you might find at which specific locations.
There is also information relating to beach access, boat
ramps, recommended bait types, where to obtain fresh bait,
size limits, bag limits, current fishing rules and a list of
protected species. For further information ring (02) 6688
4356 or email North Coast Maps on grayncm@linknet.com.au
Anglers in non-tidal waterways must purchase a licence at
a cost of $10 for one month, $25 for one year or $70 for
three years. If you have a credit card you can pay for a
licence by ringing the NSW Fisheries on 1300 369 365. They
publish a pamphlet entitled 'Marine Recreational Fishing in
New South Wales'. It looks at official bag and size limits,
protected species, permitted gear, spearfishing regulations,
penalties and the location of its offices. There is a
fisheries office at 18A River St, tel: (02) 6645 2147. The
fisheries website is www.fisheries.nsw.gov.au
Bait and a limited amount of tackle are available from
the Fishing Co-op at the end of MacNaughton Place in Maclean
where you will also find a wharf and boat ramp. There are
also two boat ramps north of Maclean at the Harwood Bridge,
where the Pacific Highway crosses the Clarence River. One is
situated on the southern shore while there is another ramp
and a wharf on the northern shore. Both are on the western
side of the bridge. This is a good spot for dangling a line.
From the Harwood Bridge the Pacific Highway proceeds
north across Harwood Island, over the Serpentine Channel and
onto Chatsworth Island. 7 km from the Harwood Bridge you
will come to the Morroro Bridge which is another good
fishing spot. On the southern side of the bridge is a side
road which heads east off the highway. There is a
recommended fishing location on the eastern edge of
Chatsworth Island which is noted in the Clarence River
Fishing Guide.
On the northern side of the Morroro Bridge is a road
which heads south-west off the highway to Ashby which is the
location of another boat ramp on the opposite side of the
river to Maclean.
There is also a boat ramp at Cowper - a small settlement
located south-west of Maclean on the southern shore of the
Clarence River, just off the Pacific Highway.
At the southern end of Maclean (via Woodford St) is the
McFarlane Bridge which leads across South Arm. Adjacent the
bridge is a rocky area good for fishing. The bridge will
take you across to Woodford Island. The main road leads past
the golf course and on through Illarwill. The Illarwill
Quarry is another recommended fishing area and there is a
free 24-hour vehicular ferry which will transport you, and
your car, across the river to Lawrence (note that the ferry
is closed on Tuesdays from 9.30 a.m. to 11.00 a.m.).
Lawrence is a pretty town at the confluence of the river and
Sportsmans Creek. The creek is a good spot for bass fishing,
canoeing and birdwatching. The sand spits adjacent town are
also good for anglers. There are a couple of boat ramps.
Yuraygir National Park
Turn off Cameron St at the southern end of Maclean into
Jubilee St. This road then heads south-east out to Brooms
Head. After about 19 km there is a turnoff on the left which
leads, after 2 km, to the Lake Arragan Rest Area. A loop
road will take you off this access road to Red Cliff Rest
Area where there is a lookout. The beaches off both rest
areas offer fine surfing conditions. Swimming and fishing
can also be enjoyed.
The 10-km Angourie Walking Track starts at Lake Arragan
Rest Area. It heads north past Plumbago Beach (which has
walk-in camping facilities), Plumbago Head, Caves Beach,
Shelley Headland, Shelley Beach (the latter two also have
walk-in camping facilities), Dirrangan Lookout and Woody
Bluff to Mara Creek Picnic Area (see entry on
Yamba). Considered one of the finest coastal walks in
the country, it is best in spring and early summer when the
wildflowers are in bloom, drawing the maximum of birdlife.
If you continue along the Brooms Head Rd to the outskirts
of Brooms Head, there is an unsealed 10-km road on the right
which leads to a shady camping area at the mouth of the
Sandon River. This is a good spot for fishing.
Brooms Head
'The Broom', as its known, is a small village surrounded by
the national park. The village's main beach is lined with
shady Norfolk Pines. Deep-sea anglers launch their boats
from this beach. The lagoon and Lake Cakora offer safe
swimming for children. There is a caravan park and other
holiday accommodation.
Houseboats
Houseboats can be hired from Clarence River Boats, in
Clarence St at Brushgrove, tel: (02) 6647 6232. To get there
cross over the McFarlane Bridge and take the immediate left
onto South Arm Road which leads straight to Brushgrove.
Bundjalung National Park
National Parks and Wildlife publish a single sheet brochure
on Bundjalung National Park which provides a detailed map of
the roads, fire trails ad access points to this particularly
beautiful and extensive coastal park. The park covers 17,000
hectares, 38 km of beaches and ranges from rainforest
through heathland, coastal cypress stands, lagoons and
wetlands to coastal plains. The park is home to 205 bird, 30
mammal, 38 reptile and 13 amphibian species. It also has a
large number of Aboriginal middens indicating that it was a
popular place for the local Aboriginal groups because of its
rich supplies of food.
Head north along the Pacific Highway for 9 km then turn
right onto the Iluka Rd. It is 13 km along this road until
you reach the turnoff (on the left) to the Woody Head
camping area which is situated adjacent World Heritage
rainforest. There are also a number of picnic areas
signposted off this same road. Ring (02) 6646 6134 for
bookings and further information.
Farm and Industry Tours
Every Friday, there are two free self-drive tours of a cane
farm and a dairy farm which can be organised through the
Clarence River Tourist Association,
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