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Milton-Ulladulla
(including Lake Conjola)
Twin town with Ulladulla located on a popular holiday
stretch of the NSW South Coast
Milton lies 220 km south of Sydney via the Princes Highway.
It is a rural centre linked to Ulladulla (in the next decade
the short rural strip between the two towns will,
inevitably, be filled by suburban development) and a series
of small coastal holiday resorts. \The local economy is a
combination of fishing (they supply fresh fish to the Sydney
markets), tourism, retirement destinations, as well as the
traditional activities of dairying, timber-getting and the
production of honey.
For the 20,000 years prior to white settlement the
coastal area was occupied by, depending on what source you
read, the Dhurga, Walbanja and/or Wadandian Aborigines.
Middens and caves used for shelter testify to their
occupation of the land. When Captain Cook saw the coastline
in 1770 he noted, at Bawley Point, south of Ulladulla,
people on the shore who 'appeared to be of a black or very
dark colour'. On April 21 he sighted Pigeon House Mountain,
to the west. He described it as 'a remarkable peaked hill,
which resembled a square dove-house, with a dome at the top,
and which for that reason I called the Pigeon House'.
In 1827 Thomas Florance surveyed the coastline from
Burrill to Narrawallee, naming much of what he saw. He
anchored his boat, the Wasp , in what is now called
Ulladulla Harbour and hence it became known, for a time, as
Wasp Harbour.
The first land grant in the area was issued in 1827 to
Reverend Thomas Kendall (1778-1832). He settled north of the
present township of Milton, calling his property 'Kendall
Dale'. There he ran cattle and felled timber utilising
ticket-of-leave men for labour. Kendall travelled often from
Ulladulla to Sydney but was drowned when his small boat, the
Brisbane, was wrecked off Jervis Bay.
His grandson, Henry Kendall, was born on the estate in
1839. Although he only lived there for five years the people
of the district helped to launch his literary career when
they instigated, by public subscription, the publishing of
his first book, Poems and Songs , in 1862. He was to become
one of Australia's most distinguished contemporary poets.
An area called 'The Settlement', upon the site of
present-day Milton, was soon occupied by farmers. Creeks,
rivers, gorges, mountains, lakes and swamps made access by
land difficult so the settlers began to utilise the harbour,
imaginatively known as 'The Boat Harbour', for the shipment
of produce. There were no breakwaters nor any jetty, just a
chain by which ships were secured.
Other grants were issued in the 1830s and the site for a
village was surveyed in 1837.
Early industries included dairying, wheat-growing
(destroyed when 'rust' hit the south coast in the 1860s),
pig-rearing, honey, maize and vegetable-cultivation, a
tannery works at Millards Creek and the mining of silica and
quartzite which was loaded on a wharf at Bannister Point and
shipped out for usage in the furnaces at Newcastle.
In 1859 John Booth, the partner of Anthony Hordern who
controlled a large department store in Sydney, purchased 80
acres of Myrtle Farm from Joseph Whatman for 240 pounds. He
subdivided his property the following year creating the
private township of Milton.
Although one theory suggests the place name is a
corruption of 'Milltown', most sources believe it was named
after 17th-century English poet John Milton, either by the
first postmaster, George Knight, or by Booth himself. The
apocryphal story is that Milton's Paradise Lost caught
Booth's eye in his library while he was contemplating a
name. Settlement of the fertile lands ensued and some
impressive homesteads were built.
By 1866 Milton had Anglican, Roman Catholic and Wesleyan
Churches and a Congregational Church was erected in 1872.
Although private schools had existed as early as 1851 when
the Wardens erected one for general usage half a mile
north-west of the present town, a public school was not
opened until 1878, after much local bickering and
denominational disputation.
Today Milton is an attractive township (done out in the
inevitable heritage colours) which entices the traveller
with a range of gift shops, cafes, antiques and craft
outlets.
Things to see:
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Exploring Historic Milton - this tour moves from the
south to the north.
Melrose Farm
The first houses in the district consisted of a sapling
framework with strips of dried bark for covering. As
families developed (until 1850 there was only one white
woman living at Ulladulla Harbour) larger slab houses were
erected consisting of round timber corner poles, slabs of
timber for the walls and wooden shingles on the roof. An
example is the slab cabin on 'Melrose Farm' in Milton. Turn
east off the highway at Croobyar Road then take the first
left into Garads Lane and the next right.
Springfield
On the western side of the highway,about half-way between
Ulladulla and Milton, is 'Springfield', an attractive
11-roomed house with elaborate iron lacework about the
verandah. Considered distinct in its architectural features
it was built in the 1860s by Ephraim Mison, who owned a
timber mill above the wharf at Ulladulla.
Angel Rose Restaurant
On the corner of the highway and Croobyar Road are two
buildings of historic note: to the right is Colleen English
Candlemaker's Cottage, thought to be one of the oldest
structures in the area; to the left is the Angel Rose
Restaurant, a large, two-storey structure that was
originally a substantial store (c. 1887). The balcony was
added at a later date.
Melrose and the Lighthouse Keeper's Cottage
Continue along the highway. A road soon branches off to the
right. The southern corner is the site of 'Melrose',
originally a farm belonging to the Kendalls. The next
crossroad is Gordon St and on the southeastern corner is
another attractive building, the old lighthouse keeper's
cottage. In the 1920s it was dismantled and removed by
bullock cart from Warden Head when the lighthouse was
mechanised.
The Cottage
Cross Gordon St and halfway along the next block, to your
left, is 'Coolooli' and 'The Cottage', currently Milton
Medical Centre, built in the 1870s with typically high
ceilings. The old pump still stands over the well at the
back of 'The Cottage'.
Anglican Church of St Peter and St Paul
The next crossroad is Church St and, appropriately, on the
south-western corner is The Anglican Church of St Peter and
St Paul. Of a Gothic style it was completed in 1860,
although it was not consecrated for many years owing to
debts. The foundation stone was laid by John Kendall (the
Reverend's son). It has been argued that the Chinese Elm
Tree on the grounds is the oldest in Australia, being
planted by Alice Kendall when she returned from missionary
work in China in 1920.
The Settlement
Further along the highway, on your left, is 'The
Settlement', established as the Post Office Stores in 1860.
They were purchased by John Kendall in 1874 and run by his
son-in-law, Henry Carrington Blackburn. After Kendall died
Blackburn erected the present building, 'The Popular' Store
(1898), at the time one of the largest stores on the south
coast. The building is still owned by his descendants. The
Settlement Courtyard, with its specialty shops, now occupies
the space where the original storeroom and stock feed barn
were located. An Arts & Crafts Market is held in The
Settlement Arcade on the first Saturday morning of the
month.
Milton's Public Buildings
Cross Wason St and there are a group of public buildings
which contribute to the streetscape. The post office (1880),
extended in 1894 and 1904, was originally a single-storey
structure. Beside it are the police station and the somewhat
unusual, asymmetrical court house (some sources date it at
1877, others from the 1890s) with turned timber columns.
Opposite is the old town hall building (1871) with its
intersting facade of quoins, now the library. Next to it are
a courtyard, where a public mural of Milton and its environs
can be seen, and the Milton Cultural Centre.
Methodist Manse
At the next crossroad the highway heads north to Nowra and,
to your right, Thomas St bends back in an easterly
direction. In the crook between the two is the Wesleyan
Methodist manse. The building was a gift to the church from
ex-convict made good, Henry Claydon. The church later sold
the building as they thought it too ostentatious to fit
comfortably with their ascetic values. The triangular plot
to the west of the house contains some graves, one of which
belongs to Joseph Whatman, the first settler on the site of
Milton. The rear balcony was used for binocular surveillance
of the coast in World War II.
Northern end of Milton
On the other side of the highway is 'Times Past' bed and
beakfast. Built about 1890 this was originally the homestead
of a dairy farm which supplied the local township. Adjacent
is Mick Ryan Park where there is a 120-year-old fig tree.
Walk a short distance along Thomas St and, to your left,
is the public school which opened in 1878. It is still in
use and the residence (1877) is extant. Head back along
Thomas St the way you came as it crosses the highway and
becomes Myrtle St. At the end of this road turn left into
Croobyar Road. On your right, just before Wason St, is the
Wesleyan Church. The present stone structure (1883) replaced
an earlier timber kirk. It is now a private residence.
Opposite is an attractive building that currently houses
Turnbull's Antiques.
Take the first left again into Wason St, which has a
number of quaint houses. To the right, near the first
corner, is the Old Milton Studio (1875), the original Roman
Catholic Chapel. On the same side of the road, at the corner
itself, is 'The King House' (c.1875), the present home of
Legacy.
Harry McLaren's Folk Museum
Turn right into Charles St, take the first right into Church
and the first left into Wolseley and to your immediate
right, at number ten, is Harry McLaren's Folk Museum, with
an interesting private collection carriages, buggies,
furniture, costumes, tools, books, bric-a-brac and other
antiques and memorabilia, which is open to the public
whenever the owner is home (02 4455 2058).
Uniting Church buildings
Further along are the Uniting Church manse (1875), doubling
as a school from 1899-1908, and the Church itself, built in
1872 as the Congregational Church. Gothic in its
architectural style it is decorated with quoins, cathedral
glass windows and facings of hewn stone.
The Cambage Houses
Turn right into Gordon St (have a look at no. 60 - built
1880) then right again back into Croobyar Road. Take the
first left into Wilfords Lane. To the left as the road bends
to the right is 'Pine View', built by Prosper Cambage for
his bride in the 1890s. His father, John Fisher Cambage
arrived in Sydney in 1835 to serve seven years for
housebreaking. He was stranded on-shore in Ulladulla two
years later when a favourable wind prompted those aboard his
vessel to put out to sea. It was Cambage's second wife who,
aged 17, was the first white woman to live at Ulladulla
Harbour. They had to ride 80 miles to be married as the
nearest clergyman was at Braidwood.
John Cambage had master mason, James Poole, built him the
cottage of 'Applegarth' in 1868. It is a little further
along Wilfords Lane and off to the right. James Poole came
to the area in 1865 to work on the stone pier at Ulladulla
but stayed to design and build a number of private and
public buildings. The house is supposedly haunted by
Cambage's son Henry.
James Poole also built the school which is located
further along Wilfords Lane, to the right. The building,
opened in 1880, became a private residence in 1899. The
'Riverview' homestead is further along the lane, to the
left, and 'Loch Leven' at the end of the road, to the right.
In the District
1. Kendall Dale
The farmland around Milton has a number of homesteads which
predate any of the urban dwellings. The best known is
'Kendall Dale', the home of Thomas Kendall. Located on a
creek on the flats north of Milton it is still occupied by a
descendant. The original timber house burned down but his
son John built what is now the rear half of the homestead in
1848. On the outer wall of the courtyard is the original
kitchen, complete with baker's oven and maid's room.
2. Kermington
To the west of 'Kendall Dale' is 'Kermington'. The simple
farmhouse of Kendall's son Edward it is situated on a hill
overlooking the countryside. It was on this property that
Henry Kendall was born and a monolith marks the site of the
slab hut where the birth occurred. It is considered the
oldest homestead in the area.
3. Some James Poole houses
Across the highway, to the south-east, is 'Boolgatta House',
designed and built by Poole. The original owner was one of
the two Warden Brothers, James. On the same side of the
highway but closer to Milton are 'Narrawilly' (built in the
1870s by John Miller,who struck it rich in the Bendigo
goldrush, and occupied by his great great grandson) and
'Whoppindally' (1866), again erected by Poole, this time for
another Kendall (Thomas). While in the area James Poole also
worked on 'Airlie House' and 'Applegarth'. The former is a
two-storey mansion built by David Warden in 1868. It is
situated to the west of Woodstock Road, about 2 km out of
Milton. It has an attractive stone gatehouse at the entrance
to the long driveway.
4. Lake Conjola
To the north of Milton-Ulladulla is Lake Conjola. The name
is thought to derive from the Aboriginal word 'Kongoola',
the name of a fish from the creeks where the local tribe
camped. The first permanent settlers had arrived by 1847.
The lake offers boating (there is a boat ramp), sailing,
waterskiing and safe swimming. Sailboards, power boats,
canoes, surf skis and rowboats are available for hire from
the post office and general store in Carroll Ave (02 4456
1163). Conjola Boat Hire has fishing boats in the school
holidays (02 4456 1563). Bream, flathead, whiting, tailor,
and blackfish are to be found in abundance and beach fishing
in the area is also popular. There are also good locations
for diving and spear fishing. Access is via Lake Conjola
Entrance Road which leaves the Princes Highway 6 km north of
Milton.
5. Pointers Gap
If you continue along the highway another 1.4 km a scenic
drive commences at the turnoff to the left into Pointers Gap
Road. It is 9 km to Pointers Gap itself at the top of the
escarpment. Here a signpost directs you to Rotary Lookout
along a short track to the left, a popular picnic spot with
spectacular views of the lake and the beaches south of
Burrill Lake. The heathland here is quite beautiful in the
spring and summer.
Return to the Pointers Gap Road and turn left. At the
T-intersection turn right and, after 4 km, there is a small
car park on the right. Walk through the green gate and
follow the road to the sign that says 'Mt Bushwalker'. Turn
right and pursue the track through the heathland. When the
track peters out follow the yellow dots to the edge of the
escarpment and an excellent view. Local enquiries about the
state of the roads are advisable in wet weather.
Other Attractions
At the H Ranch (02 4456 4240) there is horseriding (4-km
trail rides through the McDonald Ranges), grass skiing, a
swimming pool. barbeques, bushwalks, a restaurant, hayrides
and fine views . To get there drive north along the highway
out of Milton and take the major left into Little Forest
Road. The ranch lies 5 km along this road. It is open
weekends and public holidays.
This road will also take you to Little Forest Creek.
There is a short walk to a lookout which offers good views
eastwards to the coast and south-west to Pigeon House
Mountain.
In town Settler's Fair is held on the long weekend in
October. There are genealogical, historical and art and
craft displays, a flea market, street entertainment (a
parade, dancers, buskers, fire-eating, jugglers, clowns,
puppet shows, stalls, displays and acrobats), bush dancing,
folk dancing, plus the annual fun run and half-marathon. The
Country Fair and Market Day is held at the showground off
Croobyar Road on the Sunday of that same weekend. The
showground is also the site of the annual show in February.
The Milton Scarecrow Festival, a day of entertainment and
activities, is held in conjunction with Ulladulla's Blessing
of the Fleet at Easter time. Scarecrows are made by the
townspeople, displayed along the street and in shop windows
and then auctioned off for charity.
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