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| Broulee Island Nature
Reserve, once the major port for Moruya
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Moruya
Pleasant south coast township servicing the surrounding
rich agricultural region.
Situated 306 km south of Sydney via the Princes Highway
Moruya (population 2520) is a coastal town reliant upon
timber, dairying, cattle, vegetables, fish, oysters and
tourism for its sustenance.
Inhabited either by the Bugelli-Manji Aborigines or the
Wandandian tribe before white settlement the coast was first
surveyed from Batemans Bay to Moruya by Thomas Florance in
1827. The following year Irish-born tailor Francis Flanagan
(1780-1863) became the first resident landowner in the
district after the limits of settlement were extended from
Batemans Bay to the Moruya River.
Flanagan arrived in NSW in 1827 with capital enough to
qualify for a grant but Governor Darling refused to grant
land to a man of Flanagan's 'class'. After journeying to
Ulladulla by boat Flanagan travelled overland with
Aboriginal guides, building a family home at the site of
present-day Mullenderee (2 km north of Moruya).
In 1830 John Hawdon took up the Kiora property, 4 km west
of Moruya. He took it up as a squatting run and built a
house there in 1836. Hawdon became an active figure in local
affairs. He also owned and ran a transport ship, the
Alligator, retiring to a site near Tuross Heads in the
1860s.
The first harbour in the area was established at Broulee
as a dangerous sand bar at the mouth of the Moruya River
caused difficulties for smaller ships and prevented access
by larger ones. The Broulee area had been surveyed and
gazetted in 1837 and land sales commenced in 1840 when a
post office was opened, receiving mail weekly overland from
Braidwood.
In 1840 Broulee became the site of the first court in the
district and, the following year, was made the centre of a
police district which covered the area from Jervis Bay to
Eden. But Broulee's importance was short-lived. A flood
washed away the particularly dangerous sand bar at the mouth
of the Moruya River in 1841. In 1848 land was opened up for
sale. A town site was surveyed and Surveyor Mitchell, a
supporter of Aboriginal place names, wanted it called
'Mherroyah'; this supposedly being the Aboriginal word for
'resting place of black swans' which were very common in the
district. Thus 'Moruya', or 'Mherroyah' was adopted when the
town was gazetted in 1851.
That same year gold was discovered 60 km upstream at
Araluen and on smaller creeks running into the river between
Araluen and Moruya. The Araluen valley proved one of the
richest goldfields in the county. Initially diggers
disembarked at Broulee and walked to the site but, with the
establishment of a new and improved road from Araluen to
Moruya between 1856 and 1861, Moruya became the preferred
service centre to the northern goldfields.
In 1859 the court was relocated, building and all, to
Moruya, where it remained until the present courthouse was
constructed in 1879. The Erin-go-Bragh Hotel was also
shifted from Broulee Island to Campbell St, Moruya by
Abraham Emmott who opened it as the 'Beehive' store. Emmott
later set up his store elsewhere and used the old inn as his
home, naming it 'Merlyn', until he could afford to build
what was one of the first semi-detached houses in Moruya in
1875. 'Merlyn' was demolished in 1978 as part of the
development of the new shire offices but the brick house
survived and became the property of the Moruya Historical
Society in 1975.
Moruya continued to prosper as a gateway to the
goldfields.
Gold was mined at Wagonga in 1860s and a silver mine
opened in Moruya in 1861 but was later abandoned. The
infrastructure of the town continued to develop in the 1860s
with churches, stores, hotels, banks, blacksmiths and
newspapers opening.
Fine-grained grey granite was initially quarried in the
1860s for the Wesleyan Church and local harbour works.
In 1868, John Young, the contractor for the Sydney GPO,
leased land from the Louttit family on the south side of the
river and opened a quarry, shipping stone to Sydney. Samples
were sent to then Colonial Architect James Barnet, who used
it for his work on the decorative columns of the facades at
the Sydney GPO in the early 1870s. When Young's lease
expired the Louttit family took over the quarry which
supplied material to Sydney for the statue of Captain Cook
in the Sydney Botanical Gardens, St Mary's Cathedral and the
headquarters of the Bank of NSW.
This quarry was taken over in 1924 by the contractors for
the Sydney Harbour Bridge, Dorman Long & Co., who chose the
material for the bridge's pylons.
The company built Granite Town adjacent to the quarry, a
1000-acre village with 72 mostly-four-room low-rent
cottages, that existed between 1924 and 1931. It housed some
300 people in all, including 150 stonemasons, toolsmiths and
quarry workers recruited at good wages from Aberdeenshire
(noted for their skills as granite masons), as well as
Italian craftsmen and the families of many of the migrants.
The first bridge across the Moruya River was erected in
1876 though the havoc wreaked by frequent flooding saw new
bridges erected in 1900 and 1945 and, most recently, in
1966.
The late 1870s and 1880s were a period of growth for
Moruya, which was proclaimed a town in 1885 and a
municipality in 1891.
The Moruya Co-operative Dairy factory was opened in 1892,
supplying the Sydney markets. At this time the population of
Moruya was about 1000 (it was 2386 in 1986). A cheese
co-operative was formed the same year in Bergalia and the
Union Dairy Factory opened there in 1893.
Tourism became increasingly important in early twentieth
century, particularly with the establishment of Canberra in
the 1920s. After the passing of Local Government Acts in
1906 the Eurobodalla Shire was created with Moruya as its
headquarters. The municipal council was incorporated into it
in 1913.
Today it is a successful and relatively prosperous
service centre although its position away from the coast has
seen the coastal destinations (see
Broulee) develop more rapidly.
Things to see:
Exploring Moruya's Historic Past
As you enter Moruya from the north you will find, over the
bridge, at the intersection with Queen St, the Court House
(1879).West along Queen St, to the right, just before the
first crossroad, is the Sacred Heart Catholic Church (1889)
built of local granite. Turn left at that crossroad into
Page St and to your immediate right is the Uniting Church,
formerly the Wesleyan Church (1864), also built of local
granite. At the next intersection, with Campbell St, the
post office (1887, extended 1926 and 1984) is to your left
before you cross the road and, to your right, is the Rectory
(1874) and St John's Anglican Church (1891), designed by
Arthur Blacket, the son of noted architect Edmund Blacket.
The new post office replaced the service which operated at
the corner of Queen and Vulcan Sts, diagonally opposite the
courthouse.
Turn left into Campbell St and, on your right, just
before the roundabout, is the Historical Museum (1875,
restored externally in 1982). During Christmas and Easter
school holidays it is open every day from 11-3; otherwise
11-3 on Fridays and 11-1 on Saturdays. Turn right at the
roundabout into Vulcan St and at number 57 is the old Bank
of NSW building (1907), unoccupied at the time of writing.
Continue down Vulcan St to its end and turn right into
Murray St, with the golf course on your left. Take the first
left into Evans St, follow it until it curves to the left
into Bergalia St and then take the first right into Dwyer
Creek Road. This leads to the cemetery wherein lies the
grave of Constable Miles O'Grady, killed in a shoot-out with
the bushrangers of the Clarke gang (see entry on
Bodalla). Take the first gate on the Moruya side, go
straight ahead and the tombstone is in the third-last row
immediately on the left. The date of his death was 9 April
1866, not 7 April, as the inscription indicates. Further
down Dwyer Creek Rd are some old gold and silver workings on
what is now private property.
Francis Flanagan's family home
Francis Flanagan leased farms to Irish immigrants and acted
as board member for the first Catholic school, established
on his property in 1847. He was buried in the Moruya
cemetery. His last, if not his first, family home was called
'Shannon View', after the Irish river. It still stands to
the left off Larry's Mountain Road. If you wish to see it
head north out of Moruya along the Princes Highway and turn
left at the sign for Mogendoura.
Kiora House
The Kiora run was initially managed by John Hawdon's nephew
Francis Hunt until Kiora House was built (1833-35). Hawdon
lavishly entertained such guests as noted Australian poet
Henry Kendall, who is said to have written 'The Shanty on
the Rise' at the homestead, and author Thomas Alexander
Browne who, as Rolf Boldrewood, published Robbery Under Arms
in 1888, based upon his knowledge of the Araluen goldfields.
Utilizing the first convict-made bricks in the area the
mansion, facing on to the Deua River, is still privately
owned by a descendant. Although not open to the public it
can be viewed from Araluen Road.
Activities on the Moruya River
Canoeing, boating and waterskiing can all be pursued on the
Moruya River while its mangroves, oyster leases, channels
and mudbanks make it a fine spot for fishing. Near the rock
wall at the river mouth tailor and salmon can be found and
whiting at Aerodrome Beach. There are boat-launching ramps
both in town and at the river's mouth.
Scenic Drives and Lookouts
A scenic drive heads for Kiora along the Araluen Road and
then take the unsealed Wamban Road south. This route will
take you through the Moruya State Forest via Little
Sugarloaf Road. After 10 km the Western Boundary Road
branches off to the south and loops back to the Princes
Highway north of Bodalla (a further 10 km). The roads are
gravel but navigable in a two-wheel drive if you proceed
with caution.
Little Sugarloaf Road is also the route to Hanging
Mountain Forest Reserve, where there is a good lookout, and
Pinkwood Creek.
The scenery on the road to Araluen is also outstanding
and full of beauty (and wildlife). Head north out of Moruya
on the Princes Highway and then take the turnoff to
Mogendoura 3 km out of town. The route links up with the
track from Kiora and will take you past Larry's Mountain.
This road cuts through the northern end of Deua National
Park which adjoins the Wadbilliga Park to the south.
Together they cover 156 000 hectares, one of the largest
areas of natural land left in the eastern part of the state.
The Park consists of wet and dry sclerophyll forests and
patches of sub-tropical rainforest lining spectacular
mountain ranges dominated by Big Badja (1362 m) and Mother
Woila Mountain (1104 m). The park is also notable for its
steep valleys, scenic rivers and limestone caves. There are
90 bird species, as well as kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas,
possums, bandicoots and the rare tiger quoll. The Deua River
Camping Area lies on the Moruya-Araluen Rd. It has toilets,
fireplaces and river water. 4WD tracks and forest roads are
the only access routes within the park.
The main attractions - Big Badja, The Big Hole, Marble
Arch, Wyanbene Caves and Bendethera Cave, along with the
Bendethera and Berlang Camping Sites are all found along the
western boundary of the park and are best arrived at via the
Krawaree Rd (see entry on Braidwood)).
The Big Hole is a steep, 96-m deep and 50-m wide pit,
probably formed when sedimentary rocks caused underlying
limestone caves to collapse. Access involves wading across
the Shoalhaven which means the site is inaccessible when the
river is high. Marble Arch is nearby and Wyanbene Caves, 9
km south, are popular with spelunkers because of their
limestone formations and the extent of the passages. The
park has some excellent bushcamping and bushwalking sites,
especially along the Deua River and Oulla Creek to the
north-east and Woils Creek in the south, but it has few
facilities so come prepared.
Other Attractions in the Area
A recent addition to local attractions is Australia's Bush
Orchestra, a site upon which two walks have been
established, both about thirty minutes in duration, one
through dense rainforest. Both walks take the visitor past a
series of plaques and busts of significant figures of
Christian spirituality in an environment intended to
stimulate reflection. Head west out of town on the Araluen
Road towards Kiora, then turn off on to the Yarragee Road
and take the right into Ted Hunt Terrace. The cost is $5 for
families and $3 for individuals, with bird seed an optional
extra. An alternative way of getting to there is to pick up
a bus in Moruya which will take you on a one-hour trek
through the historic sites of Moruya. The journey is
accompanied by a taped commentary and concludes at the doors
of the Bush Orchestra. For details on the bus trip phone 02
4474 3554.
Scenic flights can be booked from, and other local
enquries made at, Batemans Bay Visitors Centre (1800 - 802
528). The Mobil petrol station at 83 Princes Highway, near
the roundabout in Moruya (02 4474 2763), also carries some
pamphlets and maps.
The Moruya markets are held every Saturday morning from 9
am in Shore St, behind the Adelaide Hotel.
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