|
| Looking across Nambucca
Heads from the Rotary Lookout |
Nambucca Heads (and Valla)
Charming and interesting coastal holiday town
Nambucca Heads is essentially a coastal holiday and
retirement centre in a subtropical climate which is popular
with those inclined to such activities as fishing, walking,
boating, swimming, surfing and sunbathing on the lengthy
local beaches. The town is located on a ridge which runs out
to a headland at the mouth of the Nambucca River, 26 metres
above sea-level and 512 km north-east of Sydney. Just inside
the estuary is Stuart Island which contains an Aboriginal
burial site. It is now home to an 18-hole golf course
connected to the mainland by a causeway.
The current population of Nambucca Heads is around 6000.
The major local industries include tourism, abattoirs,
timber and primary industries such as beef cattle, dairying,
bananas, forestry, fishing, oyster farming and the retail
and service sectors. There is also a growing engineering and
small manufacturing sector.
Before European settlement the Nambucca area was
inhabited by the Gumbaynggir and/or the Dainggatti peoples.
Although details are unavailable it seems clear that the
incompatibility of cultures, aims and practices triggered
conflict fatal to members of both groups although it is
readily apparent which party came off worst in the long run.
The first Europeans to encounter the Nambucca River were
probably a party who, in 1818, set off from Sydney in search
of convicts who had stolen a boat from Sydney Harbour.
Explorer John Oxley surveyed the estuary in 1820.
The word 'Nambucca' derives from a Gumbaynggir word said
to mean 'entrance to the waters' or 'crooked river'. In 1886
Baillier's Gazette described the river as 'a fine mountain
stream flowing through low swampy country, well timbered
with cedar and other valuable woods. It falls into the ocean
by a narrow rocky channel about fourteen miles north of
Trial Bay and is navigable for small vessels that trade
there for cedar, the only export'.
Cedar-getting was under way on the Nambucca River by
1842, although the dangerous sand bar at the river mouth
caused major headaches until the end of the century for
those seeking to transport their produce to markets. There
were a number of shipwrecks, and vessels were sometimes left
stranded at the harbour for months at a time. Consequently,
in the early days, logs were floated down-river by raft then
hauled along the beach by drays to the Macleay River where
they were picked up by ocean-going craft.
The first settler on the townsite appears to have been a
fisherman named Lane who, by 1867, had built a bark humpy on
the northern headland. He established a ferry service across
the river. At that time there were about 50 people on the
river. Most were timbergetters although some maize was under
cultivation.
Lane lived on the land that is now traversed by
Wellington Drive which runs along the foreshore from the
breakwater to the tennis courts at Gordon Park. It is along
this riverside area, known as the 'Inner Harbour', that the
original village developed. The town later moved to the top
of the hill.
The first of several sawmills was built adjacent the
'Inner Harbour' in 1870. It supplied timber to a shipbuilder
who went to work nearby a few years later.
A survey of the townsite was carried out in 1874 but no
buyers could be found at the initial allotment sale of 1877.
However, all four blocks were sold in 1879 - the year a
wharf was established at what is now the Gordon Park
Boatshed. In 1884 Robert Gordon opened the town's first
hotel (the Commercial) and a shop on the land now occupied
by the Golden Sands Hotel/Motel in Back St. A school was
also established in 1884 where the Miramar Motel now stands
(the Old Pacific Highway). A building called 'The Bethel',
erected in the 1880s, doubled as a site for church services
and fortnightly dances.
It is a comment on the changes which have occurred on the
New South Wales coast that virtually all remnants of the old
town have disappeared to be replaced by parks, apartment
blocks and holiday homes. The only survivor appears to be a
building called 'The Ranch' on Wellington Drive (overlooking
Gordon Park) which was built in 1890 as the Victoria Hotel.
|
| The rocks near the
breakwater at Nambucca Heads |
The village of Nambucca was proclaimed in 1885 and local
government was established in 1915. To amend the on-going
difficulties created by the sand bar, work commenced on a
breakwater in 1895, enabling ships to travel upriver as far
as Macksville. The Vee Wall was added in 1930.
With the clearing of the land, dairying emerged, although
it was not until paspalum grass was introduced in the 1890s
that the balance was tipped in the favour of success.
Separators were introduced and the first butter factory in
the valley opened at
Macksville in 1902. However, the industry declined in
the 1930s due to soil depletion, the economic depression and
a shift to beef cattle.
Tomato, banana and carrot-growing developed in the
Nambucca Valley during the 1920s, particularly with the
arrival, in 1923, of the railway. The mining of arsenical
pyrites, molybdenite and antimony was carried out in the
interwar years.
The railway also encouraged the emergence of Nambucca as
a holiday destination. Furnished cottages were let to
holiday-makers from 1926 and this tendency was greatly
accelerated by the development of highways in the postwar
years. Thus the first private caravan park on the North
Coast was opened at Nambucca Heads in 1952.
The September Fest (family fun and events) is held in
mid-September.
Things to see:
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Tourist Information
The Nambucca Tourist Information Centre is located on the
Pacific Highway (near the Bellwood Road intersection), tel:
(02) 6568 6954. It can provide information concerning local
beaches, tour operators, fishing localities and excursions,
the nature walk through Gordon Park, whale-watching and
other cruises, and the possibilities of exploring the local
river system. There is also a booklet which accompanies a
series of markers which denote historic sites around town.
The Beaches
Nambucca's Main Beach (access via Ocean St which heads off
Liston St) is patrolled during the Christmas holidays and,
until the end of the Easter school holidays, on weekends and
public holidays. Although it is a good surf beach it is
closed to surfers during patrolled periods. The main surf
beach in the area is Scotts Head (see entry on
Macksville).
Just to the south of Main Beach, on the other side of a
rocky outcrop, is Beilbys Beach (access via Ulrick Drive
which heads off Beilbys Creek Rd). Between Beilbys and
Wellington Rocks (which fringe the south-eastern corner of
the northern headland) is Shelley Beach (access via Shelley
Beach Rd which runs off Parkes St).
Waterfront Walks
The information centre has a pamphlet outlining various
walks around the town's beaches, foreshores and headlands.
One of the most popular is the Lions Riverfront Walk which
heads west from the Vee Wall, following the foreshore of the
'Inner Harbour' around to Gordon Park. This area around the
'Harbour' was the site of the original village of Nambucca
where timber mills and a shipyard were once located.
The 'Graffiti Gallery'
Enterprising holiday-makers and locals have turned the Vee
Wall into a graffiti gallery where they paint rocks and
write poems. The amount of effort which has been put into
the graffiti makes it a quite significant part of the town's
character.
Gordon Park
Gordon Park, originally known as Log Hollow, is partially
bordered by Wellington Drive. It was named after Robert
Gordon and his wife who erected the town's first hotel
nearby. The Gordon Park Boatshed was the site of the town's
first wharf.
The park preserves a section of rainforest amidst a
residential area of the town. A pamphlet available from the
information centre outlines a walking trail which passes
through an arboretum, past a swamp, though coastal forest
and a section of rainforest. There are resting places along
the way and views of the river, Warrell Creek and along
South Beach, as far as Scotts Head and Trial Bay.
|
| View from the Captain
Cook Lookout at Nambucca Heads looking down on
Shelley Beach |
Lookouts
Another delightful way to see the area is to investigate the
Rotary Lookout and Captain Cook Lookout. The former is
located adjacent Parkes St and the latter at the eastern end
of Parkes St. Both offer excellent views eastwards over the
ocean and south over the mouth of the river and the
breakwater to South Beach which stretches nearly to the
horizon. Dolphins and whales can sometimes be seen in season
off the coast.
On the hill above Rotary Lookout are two old graves. If
you turn left off Parkes St into Shelley Beach Rd, you will
soon come to another small pioneer cemetery on the left,
suggesting that, in the nineteenth century, it was the done
thing to bury people on the headland overlooking the sea.
Lions Lookout is located further north, along a little
side road that heads off Newry St.
The Headland Historical Museum
The Headland Historical Museum has a collection of
photographs, written works and memorabilia such as china,
ceramics, items relating to the timber and shipping
industries, Aboriginal artefacts, colonial household items,
early garments and needleworks, agricultural machinery and
booklets outlining historical walks of the town. It is open
Wednesdays and weekends from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. or by
appointment, tel: (02) 6568 6380. To get there just follow
Liston St out to the headland and you can't miss the signs.
Nambucca Valley Model Railway
Nambucca Valley Model Railway in Pelican Crescent has scale
working models of NSW trains winding their way through city
and countryside. Opening hours are from 2.00 p.m. to 4.30
p.m. on Saturdays and on public holidays. During school
holidays, the business is open to the public on weekdays
from 10.00 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. Other times can be arranged
but by phone booking only, tel: (02) 6568 7395.
Mosaic Sculpture
The Nambucca Mosaic Sculpture is a large work which covers
an entire wall at the corner of Bowra St and Ridge St. It
features dolphins, fish and a giant octopus emerging from
concrete waves.
Crafters' Cottage
Crafters' Cottage, at 34 Bowra St, is a co-operative of
local artists and crafters with a range of items for sale,
tel: (02) 6569 4433.
Swiss Toymakers
Swiss Toymakers is located 5 km north of Nambucca on the
right-hand side of the Pacific Highway. Here you will find
handcrafted childrens' toys made from natural wood. The
business is closed on Sundays, tel: (02) 6569 5190.
Valla Beach
If you continue north along the highway, beyond Valla Rd,
you will soon come to the turnoff on the right which leads
out to Valla Headland and Valla Beach which is noted for its
surfing, although there are safe areas for children. There
is also a walking track, and visitors can enjoy deep-sea,
beach and estuary fishing. All the usual amenities are
provided.
You can, in fact, walk to Valla Beach from Nambucca Beach
- a distance of about 3 km. A bus will bring you back if you
wish, or you can undertake the excursion in reverse. Bus
timetables are available from the information centre.
Valla Beach Resort is the venue for the Volkswagen
Spectacular which is held in late July or early August of
the odd-numbered years and for a Hot Rod Rally on the
October long weekend.
The Waterways
Canoes, kayaks and run-abouts can be hired from the Nambucca
Boatshed (tel: 02 6568 5550) in Wellington Drive, and
Beachcomber Marine (tel: 02 6568 6432) in Riverside Drive
hires out boats suitable for use in the estuary. Most
riverside caravan parks also hire out various craft. There
are boat ramps off Wellington Drive, at the southern end of
Gordon Park, adjacent the RSL carpark (Nelson St), in the
Foreshore Caravan Park (Riverside Drive), on Stuart Island
(next to the golf club), and from Pelican Caravan Park on
the Pacific Highway.
White-water rafting expeditions can be organised through
the information centre which also has information regarding
riverside picnic areas. The Jetty Dive Centre conducts a
range of courses and dive charters, and hires out equipment,
tel: (02) 6651 1611.
Gambaari Tours
Gambaari Tours offer half and full-day Aboriginal Cultural
Tours of the area, tel: (02) 6655 4195 or (0412) 660 626.
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Wrecking Yard for sale in Nambucca Heads.
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