|
| Checking out the surf at
Blueys Beach |
Pacific Palms (including Smiths Lake, Sandbar, Blueys
Beach, Boomerang Beach, Booti Booti National Park, Green
Point, Wallingat State Forest)
Quiet and water-bound settlement between Myall Lakes and
Foster
Pacific Palms, 282 km north of Sydney via the Pacific
Highway, is the general place name given to a strip of the
mid-north coast from Tarbuck Bay in the south to Tiona Park
in the north. It is also the name given to the central
shopping area adjacent Boomerang Beach. The main access road
which bisects the area is The Lakes Way which departs the
Pacific Highway just north of Bulahdelah and runs east out
to the coast following it north to rejoin the highway south
of Forster.
This is a holiday area of small settlements which are
primarily designed for holiday makers and people who have
chosen to retire in the area. Not surprisingly there is a
feeling of relaxation and transience.
Fishing is obviously a popular pastime and beach anglers
will usually be rewarded with tailor, bream, whiting and
mulloway. The headlands and rocks are good for drummer,
blackfish, bream and tailor, the lakes for bream, whiting
and flathead and Charlotte Head is generally considered the
best spot for land-based game anglers after tuna and
kingfish.
Captain Cook and Matthew Flinders sailed by the area in
1770 and 1799 respectively. Two ships were wrecked off Cape
Hawke in 1816, presumably intoducing the first white people
to the area. The Captain of one of the ships, his wife,
child and two crew reached Newcastle. The rest were presumed
killed by the indigenous inhabitants of the area.
In 1818, John Oxley and his party, en route to Sydney
after an inland expedition, carried a boat from Booti Booti
to Boomerang Beach where they spent the night. One of the
party was speared by the local Aborigines (probably the
Worimi) who watched them from canoes. Oxley named Wallis
Lake after the commandant of the penal settlement at
Newcastle.
This area was issued as part of the million-acre land
grant to the Australian Agricultural Company (AAC) in 1825
but they found this section of their grant of no use and it
reverted to the crown. Nonetheless, it is said that the
Chinese shepherds hired by the AAC in the 1850s fished off
the coast here and dried their wares for sale.
Ex-convict William Bramble and his family became the
first European settlers of the district in 1854. One of his
grandsons took up land just north of The Sandbar in the
1880s. The Godwin family took up land at Cape Hawke in 1863
and William Newman moved into the area in 1866. The Newmans
took up most of the land east of The Lakes Way between
Smith's Lake and Elizabeth Beach in the 1900s and 1910s.
Timbergetting and its related activities were the main
source of income in the early days with the timber mills of
Bungwahl providing much employment. Fishing was also a major
activity although problems of preservation and
transportation limited its commercial possibilities until
after World War II. Small farming also developed.
The small community was badly hit by the effects of the
depression of the 1930s on the timber industry. Dairying was
attempted with little success. Nonetheless, local pressure
led to the opening of a school at Charlotte Bay (at the
south-eastern corner of Wallis Lake) in 1937.
World War II saw a resurgence of demand for timber,
strengthening the cash economy. Significantly, a man named
Wally Williams bought up land at Elizabeth Bay in 1946 with
an eye to its tourism potential. He subdivided a hundred
allotments between Wallis Lake and the beach, set up a shop
and something of a tourist resort. Investors and retirees
bought up the land and businesses began to emerge. With this
example in place others began to provide services for
holiday-makers, such as a boatshed, tea rooms and a real
estate agency.
Slowly, the emphasis shifted from the creekside
settlement of Charlotte Bay to the ocean shore. The
rerouting of the Pacific Highway through Karuah and
Bulahdelah and the establishment of a bridge over the Karuah
River aided the tourism potential of the area. Caravan
and/or camping parks emerged in the 1950s at Elizabeth
Beach, Santa Barbara and The Sandbar.
A developer named Degotardi did much to promote (and
further subdivide) the area in the late 1950s and a local
progress association came up with the name 'Pacific Palms'
in 1959 with an eye to enhancing its appeal.
Subdivision, homebuilding, sandmining and roadworks
encouraged population growth in the 1960s and 1970s. All in
all, the 'development' of the area has been extremely slow.
Indicatively, the local school didn't receive electricity
until 1967 and The Lakes Way remained unsealed until 1970.
A market is held on the last Sunday of each month at the
Community Centre in Pacific Palms, from 9.00 a.m. to 1.00
p.m.
Things to see:
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|
| Cellito Beach near Smiths
Lake |
Smiths Lake and Sandbar
At the southern end of the district, occupying a peninsula
that juts out into Smiths Lake, is a pretty village situated
in beautiful bush surroundings which also goes by the name
of Smiths Lake. Fortunately the land was not cleared before
the houses went in and the residences are not so densely
placed as to spoil the natural setting. There is a hire
service at the Frothy Coffee Boatshed, located at the
southern tip of the headland. Aside from a truly exceptional
coffee you can obtain catamarans, motor boats, paddle bikes,
flipper skis, canoes, surf skis, aquabikes, windsurfers and
bait. Adjacent the boatshed is John DeBert Reserve, a
beautiful lakeside spot where there is a boat ramp, as well
as picnic, barbecue and toilet facilities. Birdlife is
abundant here.
Smiths Lake township is on the western rim of Symes Bay
and from the verandah of the boatshed it is possible to look
east across to Sandbar, literally a sandbar which separates
Smiths Lake from the ocean. Sandbar has a caravan park
situated on the lakeside in a thick bush setting 3.5 km
along a very bad dirt road which heads off The Lakes Way.
They have boats and canoes for hire and there is a
children's playground with barbecues at the Lakefront
Reserve. At the shop they will point you to Sandbar Beach, a
few minutes walk away. This is a good spot for families, for
surfing, bushwalking, bird watching, sailing, prawning and
fishing, although commercial trawling of the lake has
diminished returns for the individual angler.
The Sandbar turnoff is clearly signposted from The Lakes
Way 500 m east of MacWood Rd. As you head south along the
dirt track a branch road will appear to your left which will
take you to a 9-hole golf course in bushland setting and on
to Cellito Beach, a noted surfing beach just north of
Sandbar. Just past this turnoff is Bushland Camping Ground.
It is another kilometre to Sandbar Caravan Park and the
booking office. There is a charge for day visitors.
Coomba Park and Pacific Palms Visitors Centre
Continue north along The Lakes Way and you will come to a
turnoff to the left into Coomba Rd which runs around the
western shore of Wallis Lake up to the boat ramp and picnic
area at Coomba Park, a farming district adjacent the rural
tranquillity of Coomba Bay (22 km). There are a number of
homesteads which provide accommodation in this area.
3.6 km further along The Lakes Way you will come to the
signposted Boomerang Drive turnoff on your right. This route
will take you east out past the Oasis Caravan Park. After
1.6 km you will come to a shopping centre on your left. On
the western side of it is the Pacific Palms Visitors'
Centre.
|
| Blueys Beach
|
Boomerang and Blueys Beach
Beyond the centre and up Headland Drive is Boomerang Point
overlooking Boomerang Beach. Blueys Beach is on the southern
side of this headland. In recent times Blueys (which is
reputedly named a after a cow which fell of the southern
cliff) has become a fashionable and expensive destination
for Sydneysiders seeking a quiet retreat. These two beaches
and their hinterland make up the core of Pacific Palms and
have a combined population of 500. They are both noted
surfing beaches.
At Boomerang Beach's northern end is Charlotte Head, a
massive rocky headland which rises up above the ocean. It is
the southern tip of Booti Booti National Park, a popular
coastal reserve of scenic lookouts, surf beaches, rainforest
walks, thick scrub, beach and rock fishing, sailing,
windsurfing, boat-fishing, prawning, skindiving, camping,
picnicking and an abundance of wildlife (mostly nocturnal).
Elizabeth Beach and Shellys Beach
Boomerang Drive veers west becoming Lakeside Crescent. On
your right, as you pass the western edge of the elevated
headland, you will see a car park to your right which lies
at the eastern edge of Elizabeth Beach where there are
picnic facilities, a boat ramp and a surf club which patrols
the beach in season. Consequently this is the most popular
family beach in the locality.
Adjacent the car park is a series of steps which lead to
a dirt path. This will take you down to the other side of
the headland where you will find Shellys Beach. The
seclusion provided by the enormous rock wall between town
and beach, the outcrops which shield the extremities of the
beach from prying eyes, and the lack of road access have
encouraged those who prefer to bathe au naturel.
The Lake and Booti Booti National Park
Continue along Lakeside Crescent and it will take you back
to The Lakes Way. The stretch of coast from Shellys Beach
north to Forster is a spit which separates Wallis Lake from
the ocean. This spit constitutes the remainder of Booti
Booti National Park. There is a boat ramp into the lake
adjacent the Pacific Palms Recreation Club. When you come to
the intersection of Lakeside Crescent and The Lakes Way turn
left and you will see the club's car park to your right
after 500 m. The lake is noted for its sailing and saltwater
fishing.
Head back north along The Lakes Way past Lakeside
Crescent and on to the spit. There are several picnic spots
to your left facing out onto the lake, the last at Booti
Point. 3.5 km from Lakeside Crescent is the Park's
information centre, situated within The Ruins campground.
Here you can pick up a leaflet outlining The Booti Hill Walk
(3.2 km) which heads south from here, past Booti Hill (169
m), around the headlands above Lindemans Cove to Elizabeth
Beach. The gradient is steep at times but the ocean views
are rewarding. Adjacent Booti Hill and Lindemans Cove is a
littoral rainforest. If you wish to return there is an
easy-going path which runs beside Wallis Lake and The Lakes
Way. If you want to start at the southern end join the walk
from Lethbridge Rd, off Lakeside Crescent at the western end
of Elizabeth Beach. The dirt loop at the end of Lethbridge
Rd takes you past a small wooden footbridge where a barely
visible sign indicates the start of the walk.
The Ruins campsite is situated at the southern end of
Seven Mile Beach, with amenities and disabilities
facilities. Tents are allowed but no caravans and it is
essential that you book in advance.
Tiona Park
700 m north of The Ruins is Tiona Park, technically the
northernmost point of Pacific Palms. There you will find, on
the western side of the road, a caravan park and the Green
Cathedral, an al fresco temple, consecrated by the Saints
Church. It has rough timber pews and a wooden lectern
situated under a rainforest canopy on the shores of Wallis
Lake and is much used for outdoor weddings . There is also a
boatshed, tel: (02) 6554 0291.
Santa Barbara and Green Point
1.5 km north, to the right, is Santa Barbara, a lovely
picnic area with amenities. Another 2 km brings you to a
signposted turnoff on your left which will take you to
another picnic area beside the sailing club where there are
catamarans and windsurfers for hire in season.
About 2 km north of here is Green Point Drive which will
take you out to Green Point where there is a small
settlement on the edge of the lake. At the end of this road
is a restaurant and gallery. 1.2 km from Green Point Drive
is a very rough dirt track to the right which takes you out
to secluded Janies Corner at the northern tip of Seven Mile
Beach.
Cape Hawke
Another 4 km north along The Lakes Way (14.6 km from the
Lakeside Crescent turnoff) is a roundabout. Turn right here
and it will take you the 3.5 km out to Cape Hawke, one of
the most northerly points of Booti Booti. There is a very
steep 440-m path which winds its way to the summit of the
hill. There are several rest benches en route. As you ascend
the headland the views are increasingly spectacular. At the
top (233 m above sea-level) is a cairn noting that Captain
Cook sighted and named Cape Hawke on May 12, 1770. A raised
viewing platform affords quite spectacular views north along
the coast over Forster to Hallidays Point, north-west to the
meeting of the Wang Wauk River and Wallis Lake, west to the
Great Dividing Range and south along the spit.
Wallingat State Forest
Wallingat State Forest covers the area west of Lake Wallis
and east of the Wallingat River. If you follow The Lakes Way
west to the northwestern edge of Smiths Lake you will come
upon the access route - Sugar Creek Rd which lies to your
right, clearly signified by a large, attractive sign
advertising Sugar Creek Toymakers, who specialise in unique
wooden toys. They can be found to your left just 500 m along
the road. A very large and unusual tallowwood tree stands
outside the attractive cottage of cypress pine-log. All of
the toys are hand-made on the premises, some of local
corduroy beech (one tree lasts them 7 or 8 years). There is
also a little luncheon section that is tasteful, clean, and
tidy.
Further along the road a series of blue arrows with a
white leaf inset on white circular discs indicate the route
of the Wallingat Forest Drive (25 km). A pamphlet provided
by the State Forestry Commission office in Bulahdelah, tel:
(02) 4997 4206 outlines the sites of greatest interest,
including the Sugar Creek Flora Reserve (7 km) and Wallingat
River Forest Park (10 km). There was formerly a small
community in the vicinity of the latter which supplied
timber for the punts headed upriver to timber mills at
Coolongolook and Tuncurry (1855-1954). The picnic area was
once a log dump and the camping area a bullock pen.
At the Sugar Creek Flora Reserve is a picnic area and a
rather beautiful 30-minute walking trail. It is well worth
investigating the Whoota Whoota Lookout (15 km) which is
also indicated on the Forest Drive pamphlet. There are
outstanding views over Wallis Lake and south-east down to
Hawks Nest and the offshore islands.
The park's birdlife is prolific and includes rare species
such as the little tern, the sea eagle and the wampoo
pigeon. There are also bandicoots, kangaroos, koalas, tiger
cats, possums, wallabies and gliders. A warning however, the
road is unsealed, rough and hopeless when wet. Its 4WD
country really.
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