|
| The view south from the
Smoky Cape Lighthouse |
South West Rocks (including Hat Head National Park,
Arakoon and Trial Bay)
Sleepy coastal town which is a well kept secret. A
delightful holiday retreat.
Located 463 km north of Sydney, South West Rocks is one of
those coastal towns which is often by-passed by
holidaymakers. In fact it is one of the quietest and most
attractive towns on the Mid North Coast. It is a true
hideaway with some notable television personalities using it
as their getaway because no one pays much attention to them
and they can relax without being 'noticed' by holidaymakers.
South West Rocks is located on Trial Bay. The Bay was
named after the brig Trial which was wrecked there in 1816
after it had been stolen by convicts who were attempting to
escape to south-east Asia. When Captain Thomas Whyte found
the wreck in 1817 there was no trace of the convicts and it
was assumed they had all perished either starving or being
killed by the local Aborigines.
Shipping along the coast ensured that the Trial Bay area
was well known. Today there is a monument on the headland at
South West Rocks to the people who were drowned when the
Wooloomooloo ran aground in Trial Bay in 1864.
In the 1870s it was decided to build a deepwater harbour
at Trial Bay (see Things to See - Trial Bay Gaol for more
details) and a breakwater. Subsequently a prison was
established and the prisoners began to build the breakwater.
However the plan was not a success. Heavy seas washed parts
of the breakwater away and the plan was abandoned.
The actual township of South West Rocks was established
in 1896. It grew as a result of a new mouth to the Macleay
River being established. This resulted in the construction
of the Pilot's Station in 1902 and the town slowly grew up
around this activity. The name of the town is a result of
the pilot officer instructing vessels to anchor in Trial Bay
so the rocks would be south-west of their anchorage. The
locals decided upon the name for the town in the 1910s.
In January 1972 the tug Polaris put into Trial Bay with a
showboat ('the Sydney Queen') and two vehicular ferries (the
'Koondooloo' and 'Lurgurena') in tow. The ferries had been
used on Sydney Harbour and, later, around Newcastle. Polaris
was hauling them 4000 km from Newcastle to Manilla where
they were to be converted to scrap or barges. A third ferry,
the ''Kooroongabba', was also being towed but had sunk off
Crowdy Head and further problems necessitated the stopover
at Trail Bay for repairs. The three remaining vessels were
moored to the buoys used by oil tankers but a gale caused
all three to break away and drift ashore where they became
entrenched in deep sand and were subsequently left to decay.
All that remains today are the loading ramp supports which
protrude from the sand.
Today the township of South West Rocks is strictly a
tourist destination. It has a modern and attractive centre
with lots of accommodation, good foreshores, pleasant
beaches and good fishing. The town also has some
particularly beautiful stands of Norfolk pines.
Things to see:
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|
| The Boatman's Cottage No:
1, the Tourist Information Office
|
Tourist Information at the Boatman's Cottage
Located in Ocean Drive (you can't miss it as you approach
the centre of town) is the old Boatman's Cottage which
operates as the local Tourist Information Office from 10.00
a.m. - 4.00 p.m. The Cottage is also a museum with an
interesting display of the maritime history of the local
region. In the grounds is the small 'Macleay', the Macleay
River's first powered pilot boat.
Wrecks on the Beach
In 1972 heavy seas forced two car ferries and the old Sydney
Harbour showboat, the 'Koondooloo' onto the front beach at
South West Rocks. They will eventually be totally destroyed
by the sea but there are still remnants of the vessels to be
seen on the beach, but only at low tide.
Trial Bay Gaol
The most important historical site in the area is the Trial
Bay Gaol (it is located to the east of the small settlement
of Arakoon) which has a museum as well as beautifully
preserved ruins. It is under the control of the National
Parks and Wildlife Service who have maintained it in superb
condition. There is a self guiding brochure available which
leads the visitor through the points of interest.
The prison was built between 1877 and 1886 to house 'good
conduct' prisoners. It was built out of grey granite which
was quarried on the site and is characterised by its
hexagonal structure with three cell blocks actually
radiating from the main entrance. Its primary purpose at
this time was to house cheap labour to help with the
construction of a 1.6 km breakwater around the bay. The
project was not completed and the prison closed in 1903. In
fact in 1903 the breakwater had only reached a little over
300 metres and a storm that year reduced it to little more
than a pile of rubble.
It was reopened in 1915 and used to intern Germans during
World War 1. The anti German feeling at the time had led to
the rounding up of innocent Germans. Although life was
hardly pleasant the Germans established their own band,
turned part of the gaol into a tennis court and one visitor
described the nights as being more like a pleasant beer hall
than a prison.
There is a monument to all the Germans who died while
interned at Trial Bay. It is signposted and is located on
the cliffs to the east of the prison. The prison was closed
permanently in 1917 and the movable parts of the building
were auctioned off in 1922.
Trial Bay Gaol is open from 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. For
more information contact (02) 6566 6168.
Arkaroon State Recreation Area
This recreation area, which includes Trial Bay Gaol, was
established in 1965. There is a good camping area which is
located below the gaol and there are a number of excellent
walks ranging from the short (Little Bay to Gap Beach takes
about 45 minutes) to a long and quite difficult walk along
the coast from Trial Bay to the Smoky Cape Lighthouse. This
means that these walkers can then continue into Hat Head
National Park. For more information contact (02) 6566 6168
for bookings in the camp.
|
| The Smoky Cape Lighthouse
|
Smoky Cape Lighthouse
Smoky Cape Lighthouse is on the edge of the Hat Head
National Park. It is signposted 'lighthouse' from various
points on the road into South West Rocks and is well worth a
visit. Perched on the top of a cliff it offers wonderful
views to both the north and south and heartstopping views
to the waves and rocks which are far below. The first
European to site the headland was Captain Cook who, in 1770,
named it Smoky Cape Range. The lighthouse, coach house,
stables and the lighthouse keeper's cottage were designed by
the Colonial Architect James Barnet and completed between
1889 and 1891. The lighthouse is built in a distinctive
octagonal shape and the cottage has been located in a shelf
cut into the rocks on the headland.
Hat Head National Park
Hat Head village is located in the heart of Hat Head
National Park 32 km north-east of Kempsey. The area is
characterised by excellent surfing beaches and good fishing.
It is also noted for the whales and dolphins off the coast
and the many coastal birds who live in the heathland flora
which characterises much of the area. Hat Head National Park
is 6445 hectares with camping facilities at Smoky Cape and
Hungry Head. For information about booking into either
destination contact the Kempsey Tourist Information Centre,
Lachlan St (Pacific Highway) - tel: (02) 6563 1555, fax:
6563 1537, toll free 1800 64 2480 or the Port Macquarie
District National Parks and Wildlife Service Office on (02)
6584 2203.
Fish Rock Cave
For divers Fish Rock Cave, which is located 2 km off the
coast from South West Rocks, is regarded as a true diving
highlight. It is recognised as one of the largest ocean
caverns in the southern hemisphere. The cave which is 120
metres long is characterised by coral, live cowry shells,
trumpetfish, wobbegong sharks, black cod and stingrays.
There are also good dives available at places named The
Pinnacle, Colorado Pass, Shark Gutters, The Bombie, Black
Rocks and Green Island. Contact the local tourist
information office for more details or: (i) Fish Rock Dive
Centre at 328 Gregory Street, South West Rocks. Telephone:
(02) 6566 6614. (ii) South West Rocks Dive Centre at 100
Gregory Street, South West Rocks. Telephone: (02) 6566 6474.
Jerseyville
On the way from Kempsey, on a delightful bend in the river,
is the tiny hamlet of Jerseyville. It was named after a
Governor of New South Wales who also happened to be the Earl
of Jersey. Today it is nothing more than a few houses but
there is a particularly beautiful old house on the far side
of the river.
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