|
| View over Tumut and the
Tumut Valley |
Tumut (including Brungle)
Beautiful town nestled in the Tumut Valley at the
foothills of the Snowy Mountains.
By any measure Tumut is an exceptionally pretty country
town. The Tumut River, which runs for 145 km before joining
the Murrumbidgee River at Gundagai, flows along the edge of
the town; the plains spread out on either side of the river;
and the foothills of the Snowy Mountains rise on all sides.
The early settlers planted poplars and willow trees
resulting in spectacular displays in summer and autumn. The
rainfall ensures that, apart from times of drought, the
valley is characteristically green and fertile.
Tumut is located 423 km from Sydney and 180 km from
Canberra via the Hume Highway. The main access to the town
is via Gundagai (34 km) with roads going through both Gocup
and Brungle. The town itself has an elevation of 280 m above
sea level which means that it is located so that it has four
distinct seasons. There is some confusion about the origins
of the town's name. One popular version is that 'doomut' was
an Aboriginal word for 'camping ground' or 'quiet resting
place by the river' and that over the years this evolved to
'toomut', 'tumat' and eventually Tumut.
The Wiradjuri Aboriginal people lived in the valley for
thousands of years prior to European settlement. A small
number still live in the tiny village of Brungle some
kilometres from the town.
The first Europeans into the area were the explorers Hume
and Hovell who, travelling down the Murrumbidgee River in
1824, came across the Tumut River. They subsequently entered
the Tumut Valley.
Four years later settlers arrived in the valley. One of
the first settlers was an Irishman, Thomas Boyd, who had
travelled with Hume and Hovell (he is buried in the town's
historic cemetery on Adelong Road). He settled at 'Rosebank'
near Gilmore and is honoured by the region of the town known
simply as 'Boyd', it was previously known by the more
pedestrian 'Railway End'. Another was a Mr Warby who settled
at 'Darbalara' near Brungle. It is known that on 27
November, 1828 the explorer Charles Sturt (on one of his
many unsuccessful missions to find Australia's 'inland sea')
stopped at Warby's house. It was here that Elizabeth Warby
was born on 10 May, 1830 - probably the first European to be
born in the valley.
The township grew slowly. Squatters were well established
in the valley but by 1856 the town was nothing more than a
single school building, a few mud and slab huts and three
hotels. The town had been surveyed, and laid out in a
classic grid pattern, as early as 1848 but it was only a
major flood in 1852 which finally persuaded the locals to
form some kind of a town.
By 1860 the town had grown to a point where it a local
newspaper which eagerly reported that the local cricket club
was holding annual meetings and the cricket played on the
town's racecourse was so popular that three publicans'
booths were provided (the publicans had to pay a guinea for
the priviledge) to quench the thirst of the players and
spectators. After the game the players headed for the
Woolpack Hotel for more drinking.
The goldrush era saw the rapid development of the town.
At one stage in 1860 there was a report of over 1200 men
passing through Tumut in the space of four days as they
headed to the Kiandra goldfields. With gold came the
bushrangers. The town's one bushranger was William Brookman,
a carpenter by trade, who joined the infamous 'Blue Cap'
gang. But the the most famous bushranger to work in the area
was James Kelly (brother of Ned) who, in 1877, stole some
horses in Wagga which they later tried to sell in Tumut.
The post-goldrush period, which had seen people moving
through the area to the Adelong and Kiandra goldfields, saw
a small boom in the town's fortunes. By 1866 the number of
pubs had grown to eleven and this had expanded to 18 pubs by
1880. Today the town has only six pubs. It became a
municipality in 1887 and the Tumut Shire, including
Batlow and
Adelong was created in 1928.
Around this time the major activity in the valley was
dairy farming on the rich river flats. This was hampered by
the lack of good transportation. It wasn't until 1867 that
there was a bridge, one of the longest in New South Wales,
over the Murrumbidgee River at Gundagai (prior to that a
ferry service had operated) and the branch railway line from
Gundagai to Tumut was authorised as early as 1884 but wasn't
completed until 1903.
In the 1950s (when, coincidentally, I was growing up in
the town) the town was operating as a successful service
centre for the surrounding district. There was a Butter
Factory (now the Tourist Information Office), a millet broom
factory, an emerging timber industry, some workers were
employed on the Snowy Mountains Scheme (it came to Tumut in
a major way with the construction of the Blowering Dam and
the Talbingo Power Stations) and the area was noted for
sheep and both dairy and beef cattle.
Today the town is remarkably prosperous largely due to
the success of the timber industry. Long term planting of
softwood pine forest by the NSW Forestry Department - there
is now more than 5000 hectares of pinus radiata grown within
a radius of 25 km of Tumut - has ensured a regular and
reliable source of timber (unencumbered by any environmental
problems) and this prosperity has seen the town become one
of the most attractive medium-sized settlements in rural New
South Wales. It is estimated that nearly 20 per cent of the
town's population now work either directly or indirectly in
the forestry/timber industry.
Things to see:
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Historic Tumut
Tumut has a large number of historic buildings notably its
collection of fine hotels, the Court House and the very fine
Anglican Church which was built to a design by Edmund
Blacket, the architect responsible for the Quadrangle at
Sydney University. A brochure relating to a heritage walk of
the CBD s available from the visitors' centre, tel: (02)
6947 7025.
This walk starts at the bottom of Wynyard Street (the
town's main street) and works its way to the top of
Telegraph Hill where the lookout offers the visitor an
excellent view over the whole of the town and valley.
Lombardy Poplars
One of the town's most distinctive features is the row of
Lombardy poplar which lie across the Tumut River from the
Anglican Church. The trees were planted in 1861 and form a
distinctive wall which is particularly impressive in summer
and autumn.
|
| All Saints Anglican
Church |
All Saints Anglican Church
In 1847 the Tumut Anglican community decided to build a
church. A rough design was drafted by a local citizen,
George Shelley. It was ignored and in 1857, as a temporary
measure, an 'Episcopalian barn' was constructed to serve the
community. A proper church was started in 1875 with the
laying of a foundation stone. The architect, although he
almost certainly never saw the completed building, was
Edmund Blacket who was the leading architect of the time
designing, amongst other buildings, the Quadrangle at Sydney
University. The nave of the building was completed in 1876,
a stone font was designed by Blacket in 1879 and his sons
replaced the pews in 1886 and re-roofed the building in
1908. It is regarded as one of Blacket's finest buildings
although it is much modified from the original plans. It is
also a rare example of a Blacket building constructed out of
bricks. Most of his buildings were constructed of stone. It
is a Gothic Revival-style church and is designed in a
cruciform pattern with two vestries and a square buttressed
tower and broach spire.
Tumut Court House and Police Station
A typical and elegant country town centre of law and order
the Court House and Police Station (just up Wynyard Street
from All Saints) are characterised by a hip roof and timber
verandah posts. The Police Station was completed in 1874,
the Court House in 1878 and the Stables in 1879. The Court
House was designed by the notable Colonial Architect, James
Barnet.
Oriental Hotel
The Oriental Hotel was originally known as the Queens Arms.
It is a typical goldrush era building showing off its
affluence. There was a pub on this site as early as 1850 and
the first publican was a man named Madigan. This new hotel
was designed and built by Frederick Kinred about 1876. He
took up Madigan's license. It has a beautiful cast iron
verandah.
|
| Tumut Valley from the Wee
Jasper Road |
Bank Corner
The corner of Wynyard and Russell Streets is bank corner
with the old Bank of New South Wales (now Westpac), which
was built in 1891, on one corner and the CBC Bank (now the
National) built in 1889 on the other corner. Both have
residences above the banks. The old Bank of New South Wales
is a late Victorian Free Classical building characterised by
a two-storey arcaded verandah and Ionic pilasters. The
hipped corrugated iron roof is topped by three large
chimneys. The old CBC bank is a Victorian Classical Revival
designed by the Mansfield brothers. The verandah is
supported by fluted cast-iron columns and there are
attractive French windows on the first floor.
Rotary Lookout
Continue up Wynyard Street. At the top there is an excellent
view across the town and the Tumut River to Bombowlee.
Tumut Museum
Located in Capper St, the Tumut Museum holds a good display
of memorabilia about the local area. It is open Saturdays
and Wednesdays from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. and at other
times by arrangement, tel: (02) 6947 2183, (02) 6947 6731 or
(02) 6947 1380.
Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception
The town's large Irish population built one of rural New
South Wales's most impressive Roman Catholic Churches out of
blue granite. It stands impressively on the corner of Capper
and Carey Streets.
Pioneer Cemetery
Beyond the Roman Catholic Church, cross over the Highway
(Adelong Road), following Gocup Rd for a short distance then
turn left into a driveway that leads directly to the town's
Pioneer Cemetery. The most notable gravestones are those of
Thomas Boyd who travelled from Sydney to the present day
site of Melbourne with the explorers Hume and Hovell. Also
of interest is the grave of the talented Aboriginal
cricketer Johnny Taylor who died of measles in 1875. He
worked as a stockman at Blowering and was known as the best
cricketer in the district before his untimely death. He was
in his 20s when he died.
Pioneer Park
Located opposite the town's swimming pool, and adjacent the
Tumut River, this is a beautiful rural retreat with fine
displays of European deciduous trees which are shady in the
summer months and spectacular during autumn. There are
plenty of park benches for picnics and a pleasant stream
winds through the centre of the park.
Stockwell Gardens
Situated around the intersection of Richmond and Russell
Streets, the trees have botanical nameplates in this
award-winning garden.
River Walk
The Visitors' centre has a book available outlining a tree
walk. It focuses on the trees from Bungle Rd, along the
river to Pioneer Park, taking in Stockwell Gardens.
Elm Drive
Sometimes referred to as the 'Avenue of Elms' this is a
spectacular and pleasant walk in any season but is most
impressive in spring and autumn when the trees are thick
with leaves. It leads down to the old racecourse and further
on is the original site of the township which was destroyed
by a flood in 1852.
Tumut Broom Factory
Millet brooms are still handmade at the Tumut Broom Factory
which is located on Adelong Road (ask at the Visitor Centre
for directions) and is open from 8.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. on
weekdays (closed for lunch). There is no entry fee and no
bookings are necessary, except for coaches tel: (02) 6947
2804.
Tumut Valley African Violets Farm
With over 950 named varieties it is reputedly the largest
African violet farm in Australia. Located in the grounds of
the 120-year-old Tumut Plains School House. It is located 7
km from Tumut on Tumut Plains Rd and offers morning and
afternoon teas at the Garden Cafe. In summer, and on school
and public holidays, it is open daily from 10.00 a.m. to
5.00 p.m., closing at 4.00 p.m. in winter. There is no entry
fee and no bookings are necessary, except for coaches. For
more information contact the owners on (02) 6947 2432.
Boonderoo Wines
Situated on Boonderoo Road (off the Snowy Mountain
Highway to the south of town), this small winery is open for
tastings and cellar door sales most weekends and at other
times by arrangement, tel: (02) 6947 2060.
Bonnie B's Shaker Shed
This eccentric collection of over 3000 salt and pepper
shakers can be seen by groups or coach groups for an
individual entry fee of $2. Located 2.5 km from the main
street via the Snowy Mountains Highway (just across
Currawong Rd) they are open most days from 10.00 a.m. to
5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6947 2060.
Blowering Dam
Take the Snowy Mountains Highway out of town, heading
towards Cooma and follow the signs to the Blowering Dam. The
journey is 12 km. The dam is impressive with the wall being
over 120 metres high. It has the second largest storage
capacity in the whole Snowy Mountains project. The dam was
the site where the world's longest water-ski run occurred
when someone kept going for 1673 km. It also became the
location of the world water-ski record when Ken Warby
travelled across it on skis at 510.45 km/hour in 1978.
Snowy Mountains Trout Farm
Located below the Blowering Dam wall, the trout farm, touted
as NSW's largest, is open daily from 9.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m.
for fish sales. Self-guided tours are available on weekends
for a small fee, tel: (02) 6947 3612.
Brungle
In 1909 the Aborigines Protection Act became law in New
South Wales. One of its conditions was to establish a
certain number of 'reserves' or 'stations' for Aborigines
which were run by white managers. These managers had
enormous control over the Aboriginal residents on their
'reserves'. They inspected their houses for cleanliness,
controlled the amount of alcohol coming into the reserve,
and could send children away to be institutionalised if they
felt the parents were not capable of looking after them.
Brungle was one of the first 'reserves' under this plan and
as many of the older Aborigines remember quite clearly the
manager was such a monster they all headed off within months
of his arrival. Other Aborigines were brought in from
outlying regions but when the offending manager was moved
the original inhabitants moved back to the reserve.
Consequently the community, largely known because of the
considerable talents of the Bulger and Penrith families, is
an active Wiradjuri community.
The Road to Canberra
The fastest way from Tumut to Canberra is via Gundagai and
the Hume Highway. The most interesting route is across the
mountains via
Brindabella. While this road is perfectly adequate for
conventional vehicles in dry weather it is not advised in
wet weather or after an extended period of wet weather.
There is a fairly substantial stretch of dirt road
characterised by clay soil which can become difficult.
Otherwise the journey is characterised by beautiful scenery
and it is an opportunity to experience the isolation which
was such a feature of Miles Franklin's 'My Brilliant
Career'.
Fishing
The Tumut River and its tributaries, particularly the
Goobragandra, are known throughout Australia as some of the
best trout fishing in the country. The brown and rainbow
trout are regarded as the great challenges and fly fishermen
come to the area to try their luck. The Blowering Dam is now
well stocked with cod, yellowbelly and trout but it is the
small streams which present the greatest challenge.
Bushwalking
There are a large number of tracks in the area many of which
are now part of the Hume and Hovell Walking Track. The most
impressive is the 18 km Thomas Boyd Track which crosses
valleys on swing bridges. Information about the tracks,
including detailed topographical maps, can be obtained from
the Tumut Visitors Centre, tel: (02) 6947 7025.
|
| Poplars touched by autumn
colours in the Tumut Valley |
Festival of the Falling Leaf
There is a widely accepted view that autumn in Tumut offers
the most spectacular display of 'colours' anywhere in New
South Wales. In the 1950s the local headmaster, Alf Woods,
instituted the idea of a Festival to celebrate the arrival
of autumn and the falling leaves which characterised the
town's many parks and gardens. It has become a hugely
popular event and is held each year in April-May. Contact
(02) 6947 7025 for more information.
Rotay Diary
Visitors can view the 3 p.m. milking at this dairy on Tumut
Plains Rd, tel: (02) 6947 1905.
Hang Gliding
Air Escape offer powered hang glider flights from Tumut
Aerodrome on Brungle Road. They operate daily and offer a
trial introductory half-hour flight,
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