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Tweed Heads
Major retirement centre on the border between New South
Wales and Queensland.
Although it is in New South Wales Tweed Heads forms a twin
town with
Coolangatta and together they sprawl across the
NSW-Queensland border. Both towns developed independently
but by the 1960s, as the Gold Coast began to expand, the
line between the two centres began to blur. However, whether
visitors realise it or not, they are, in the summer,
stepping backwards in time when they pass from Tweed Heads
to Coolangatta. This anomaly arises from the fact that NSW
adopts daylight savings in summer while Queensland does not.
Located 862 km north of Sydney and 5 metres above
sea-level, Tweed Heads denotes the southern end of the Gold
Coast proper - an area noted for its surf beaches, night
life and leisured lifestyle. The combined population of
Tweed Heads, Tweed Heads South and Tweed Heads West was
22730 in 1996.
The Tweed Shire occupies an entire river valley bounded
by the ocean to the east, the McPherson Range to the north,
the Tweed Range to the west, the Burringbar Range to the
south and the Nightcap Range to the south-east. These
formations represent the remnant of an extinct shield
volcano and its lava flow. The Tweed River meanders through
the valley before it winds its way up behind Fingal Head and
discharges into the Pacific Ocean at Tweed Heads. On the
northern side of the estuary is a high headland known as
Point Danger and the southern head is formed by the northern
tip of Fingal Head. To complicate the picture Terranora
Creek, a wide body of water full of islands, branches off
from the river just inside the estuary and winds its way
through the settlement, dividing Tweed Heads from Tweed
Heads South. In all, the shire incorporates 34 km of
coastline featuring wide, sandy beaches punctuated by low
headlands. Flagstaff Beach is on the northern side of the
river mouth and Fingal Beach on the southern side (click
here for more information on
Fingal Head). Doppys Beach is just inside the river
mouth. To the north is
Coolangatta Beach and to the south are
Kingscliff, Cabarita, Hastings Point (which has a tidal
lagoon for safe swimming), Pottsville and Wooyung. There are
plenty of good opportunities for recreational fishing.
Retirement is a considerable source of Tweed Heads'
notable population growth while tourism is the primary
source of income. There is also much commercial fishing in
the estuary and the hinterland produces bananas, sugar,
avocados, tomatoes and vegetables.
Tweed Heads can claim to be one of the first resorts on
the Gold Coast and consequently its age shows in some of the
buildings and amenities. Unlike
Surfers Paradise (which also predates the postwar boom)
it has not been radically modernised.
The traditional inhabitants of the area were the
Minjungbal people who lived a fairly sedentary life owing to
the plentiful supply of food and water. They met with other
tribes on an annual basis at Bunya Mountain (north of what
is now Brisbane) to hold corroborees.
Captain James Cook sailed up the Gold Coast in 1770. He
was nearly shipwrecked on Cudgen Headland and thus chose the
expressive names of Mount Warning and Point Danger for two
local landmarks.
John Oxley encountered the estuary in 1823 while scouting
out a suitable spot for a penal colony. His party took
shelter during a storm in the lea of the 10-acre islet off
Fingal Head. He called it Turtle Island and named the river,
in which he rowed, after a waterway in northern England. In
1828 Captain Rous surveyed the river, travelling about 36 km
upstream. His charts describe the islet as Cook Island, by
which name it is still known.
A military post existed briefly (1828-29) at Point Danger
(on the northern side of the Tweed River estuary) to
intercept escapees from the new penal settlement at Moreton
Bay.
Timbergetters worked the riverbanks for cedar from about
1844. Logs were floated along the creeks and the river to
the estuary although the bar rendered shipping hazardous
until a breakwater was built in 1902.
The cedar-cutters initially encountered hostility from
the indigenous inhabitants but the gun proved mightier than
the spear and by the end of the 19th century the Minjungbal
had almost ceased to exist .
25 men and three women were recorded as living on the
Tweed in 1846. The first permanent settlement emerged near
the estuary in what is now Tweed Heads South. Here the
cedar-getters rendezvoused with the schooners that brought
supplies and took the logs off to Sydney. The first European
birth occurred in 1851. A shipyard was established, a small
store and an inn were built and a policeman appointed,
although there was very little growth until the 1880s. After
much debate the state border was fixed in 1859 with the
creation of Queensland.
Shipping activity on the river led to the establishment
of a pilot station in 1870, a customs house in 1871, a
telegraph station in 1875 and the lighthouse at Fingal Head
in 1878. A provisional school, catering for six families,
opened in 1876 on the northern side of the estuary. Tweed
Heads was originally called 'Cooloon' by European officials
but popular usage won out and Tweed Heads was the name by
which the settlement was gazetted after an 1886 survey of
the townsite. Land sales commenced in 1887 and, by 1892,
there were about 100 residents at Tweed Heads.
For many years timbergetting was the only economic
activity on the river but by the end of the century much of
the cedar was gone and the industry declined. However,
agriculture and cattle-raising had begun to develop on the
river c.1866 when Michael Guilfoyle took up 600 acres for
the cultivation of sugarcane. He was joined in 1869 by an MP
from Kiama. A basic sugar mill was built, succeeded by a
proper mill in 1874 near Tumbulgum. The arrival of the
Colonial Sugar Refining Co. in the 1870s proved a crucial
moment. They bought up much land and subdivided it into
farms for cultivation of the cane. The industry expanded
through the 1880s and 1890s but a drop in the price of
sugar, severe winters and competition from larger mills
caused a decline.
However, other industries emerged in the valley,
including poppy-growing, the manufacture of clothes lines
and baskets from lawyer vines and the making of rope from
wild kurrajong. More crucially dairying developed in the
1890s and banana cultivation from 1909. By the 1880s the
beauty of the area had been recognised and people started
moving into holiday cottages. Some, of course, decided to
stay. The extension of the railway to
Murwillumbah in 1894 confirmed it as the centre of the
district although it also provided a fillip to Tweed Heads
when it arrived in 1903. However, it was really postwar
mobility and the desire of people from New South Wales and
Victoria to head to the sun that made both Coolangatta and
Tweed Heads popular resorts.
Neville Bonner, the first Aborigine to hold a seat in the
Federal parliament, was born on Ukerebagh Island, just
inside the mouth of the Tweed River, in 1922. A self-taught
individual he worked as a bush labourer, stockman, carpenter
and settlement overseer. He joined the Liberal party in
1967, was selected to fill a casual Senate vacancy in 1971,
resigned from the party in 1983 and became, for eight years,
a director of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. He
died in recent years.
Annual festivals include the Wintersun Festival in June
and the Tweed Heads Harbour Town Festival in October.
Markets are held on the third Sunday of the month at the
Police Citizens Youth Club in Florence St.
Things to see:
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Tourist Information
The Tweed Heads Visitor Information Centre is located in the
Tweed Mall, Wharf Street, at the northern end of Tweed
Heads. It is open Monday to Saturday from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00
p.m. and Sundays during School Holidays from 10am to 4pm,
tel: 1800 674 414. Gemstones have been found in the river
gravels and throughout the valley and the centre can furnish
a gem fossicking guide. They can also provide information
about cruises along the Tweed River and Terranora Inlet,
local fishing and deep-sea fishing charters, boat-hire
services and houseboats. Accommodation and tour bookings can
be made by calling toll-free on (1800) 674 414.
Foreshore Areas and Boat Ramps
Despite its notoriety as a coastal holiday spot, Tweed
Heads' only contact with the ocean occurs along a 1-km
stretch of Duranbah Beach, which is popular with surfers.
Thankfully, however, state and suburban borders are entirely
porous so there are many more coastal recreation areas to
the north (see entry on
Coolangatta) and south (see entry on
Fingal Head).
The area behind the coastline is also full of aquatic
recreational potential as it is shot through with serpentine
waterways. Just inside the mouth of the Tweed River, on the
northern shore, is Jack Evans Boat Harbour which is backed
by Chris Cunningham Park.
From here the river swerves southwards between Fingal
Head to the east and, to the west, Ukerebagh Island
(sandwiched between the river, Terranora Inlet and Ukerebagh
Passage), Ukerebagh Nature Reserve and the Coolangatta Tweed
Heads Golf Course, with an inlet known as Shallow Bay
forming the golf course's southern border. Access to the
course is via Soorley Rd, tel: (07) 5524 5545.
Terranora Inlet branches west off the Tweed River about 2
km inside the river mouth and Ukerebagh Passage, in turn,
branches off this inlet, wending its way down around
Ukerebagh Island to rejoin the Tweed River to the east.
There is parkland on the northern shore of Terranora Inlet
and the southern shore of the Passage is also lined with a
thin strip of greenery.
Terranora Inlet passes under Boyds Bay Bridge into
Terranora Creek which flows past a series of islets and
under the Pacific Highway bridge before bending south into
the capacious borders of Terranora Broadwater. On the
western shore of the Broadwater is Bingham Bay which is
lined with a walking/cycling track accessible off both
Scenic Drive and Peninsula Drive.
Cobaki Creek extends off Terranora Inlet in a northerly
direction. It passes under the Kennedy Drive bridge past
Lions Pioneer Park to the east and The Boyd Family Park to
the west, before continuing north into Cobaki Broadwater.
At the southern edge of Tweed Heads South is an isolated
lagoon known as Lake Kimberley, which is surrounded by a
cycling track.
There is a boat ramp and a jetty tucked up inside the
convoluted northern end of Terranora Inlet (off River
Terrace) and a boat ramp at Ray Pascoe Park, on the northern
shore of Terranora Creek (adjacent Kennedy Drive), with
toilets, picnic and barbecue facilities and a pubic
telephone. Terranora Creek also has a ramp on its southern
shore (adjacent Dry Dock Rd) and another near the Broadwater
(off The Lakes Drive).
Woodlands Lakeside Golf Course is located at 399
Piggabeen Rd, Tweed Heads West, tel: (07) 5590 7194.
Captain Cook Memorial and Lighthouse
The Captain Cook Memorial and Lighthouse are located at
Point Danger at the end of Boundary St which denotes the
state border. The 18-metre memorial takes the form of a
capstan moulded from cast-iron ballast jettisoned from the
Endeavour and recovered in the 1960s. There are four
supports that lie exactly on the compass points. The
lighthouse was the first to experiment with laser technology
but the experiment, which was carried out in 1971, was not
successful. There are picnic spots and a walk along the
cliff-edge. Dolphins can sometimes be seen out to sea. There
are views of the coastline from
Surfers Paradise to
Byron Bay.
The Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Centre
The Minjungbal Aboriginal Cultural Centre is located at the
corner of Duffy St and Kirkwood Rd in Tweed Heads South,
adjacent Ukerebagh Nature Reserve. The museum, the art
gallery, and videos offer an insight into the traditional
existence of the area's indigenous occupants. The Minjungbal
Dance Troup perform in an amphitheatre for groups by prior
arrangement.
A wheelchair-access nature walk passes through sections
of mangrove wetland before returning to a well-preserved
Aboriginal ceremonial bora ring whch was once used for the
ritual initiation of young boys into manhood and which was
used ceremonially until 1910. The ring and other localised
relics formed the basis for the declaration of Ukerebagh
Nature Reserve in 1961, which has allowed the Minjungbal
people to rediscover and stay in contact with their
traditional culture and to maintain a spiritual link with
their lands. The tourist and education centre was
established in 1988.
There are also picnic-barbecue facilities, a souvenir
shop selling Aboriginal artefacts and a kiosk. The Centre is
usually open on a daily basis. Ring for opening hours: tel:
(07) 5524 2109.
The Tweed Maritime Museum
The Tweed Maritime Museum and Historical Resource Centre is
located in Pioneer Park, on Kennedy Drive, at West Tweed
Heads. The complex contains four buildings: the old Tweed
Heads Courthouse (containing historical records and a
collection of historical photographs); the Old Soldiers Hall
(containing local historical and mostly maritime artifacts
and dioramas, as well as a tribute to locals who died while
fighting in war); the fishing shed of local pioneers the
Boyds (containing artifacts and memorabilia relating to the
family), and a refurbished deckhouse dating from the 1870s -
a portable form of accommodation hoisted upon the decks of
ships..
Admission is 50 cents for children and $4 for adults,
with special arrangements for groups and schools. There are
disabled, picnicking and barbecue facilities, off-street
parking, public toilets and swimming in Terranora Inlet. It
is open from 11.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays
and Fridays (excluding public holidays) and 1.00 p.m. to
4.00 p.m. on Sundays, tel: (07) 5536 8625.
Pioneer Country
Located on the southern shore of Terranora Creek, Pioneer
Country is a 300-acre privately owned beef cattle property
that has been in the present family's hands since 1892. It
offers horseriding opportunities and lessons, half or
full-day farm tours which include a tour through an
underground opal mine, the family museum, a mustering
demonstration, boomerang-throwing, whip-cracking, a
bushwalk, a baby animal farm tour (with opportunities for
petting and feeding), an optional Aussie cooking lesson or
non-riders, and a meal. Group accommodation is available and
the property is available as a venue for weddings. Bookings
must be made by 8.00 p.m. on the day prior to any proposed
visit, tel: (07) 5524 2632.
Parks
Chris Cunningham Park is located on Wharf St. On its eastern
side is Jack Evans Boat Harbour near the river mouth.
Ebenezer Park is located on Keith Compton Drive, facing the
inlet to Terranora Creek. Both have childrens' play
facilities. Ray Pascoe Park is on the northern shore of
Terranora Creek opposite Boyds Island (Kennedy Drive). It
has barbecue facilities, a playground and a boat ramp. On
the southern bank of the creek is Dry Dock Road Park. It too
has a boat ramp and playground.
Razorback Lookout
Razorback Lookout is located at the end of Razorback Road at
the northern edge of Tweed Heads. It offers excellent views
of the entire district, including, to the west, Mt Warning
which is the remnant magma chamber of a volcano. There are
picnic-barbecue facilities and walks through the gardens and
bushland.
Kingscliff
There are several tourist attractions in the area which are
located to the south and west of
Kingscliff.
Fishing Charters
Tweed River Boat Hire is located on the Pacific Highway at
South Tweed Heads, adjacent Boyds Bay Bridge, tel: (07) 5524
3507. Cruises are available from Tweed Endeavour Cruises at
River Terrace, tel: (07) 5536 8800. Fishing charter
operators are Sea Master Fishing Charters (tel: 07 5536
5891) and Down Under Fishing Charters, tel: (0408) 753 647.
Catch-a-Crab Australia operate half-day tours that
include pelican feeding, crab-trapping, yabbie pumping
(tides permitting), fishing, morning tea and lunch. They
depart daily at 9.00 a.m. from Terranora Wharf on Dry Dock
Road
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