|
| The statue of Captain
Thunderbolt |
Uralla
Town famous for its connection with the legendary
bushranger Captain Thunderbolt
Uralla is a typical rural service town of some 2300 persons
situated in hilly country 1005 metres above sea-level on the
Northern Tablelands of New England region of New South
Wales. It is 502 km north-north-east of Sydney, 488 km
south-west of Brisbane and 23 km south-west of Armidale. The
district is renowned for superfine wool and cattle and
characterised by extensive protrusions of granite.
Uralla calls itself ŒThunderbolt Country¹ and the town's
chief claims to fame are the grave of notorious bushranger
Thunderbolt (Fred Ward) and Thunderbolt Rock outside the
town, a large granite outcrop which has unfortunately been
covered by graffiti in recent times.
The Anaiwan Aborigines occupied the area prior to the
arrival of Europeans and it is from their language that the
town's name derives. It is said to refer to a ceremonial
meeting place and lookout, situated on the top of a hill -
possibly a reference to the two hills at the town's
north-western boundary.
The first white settler in the district was Edward
Gostwyck Cory (see Paterson and
Wangi Wangi). He sold his property in 1834 to William
Dangar who passed it on to his brother Henry who surveyed
much of the Hunter Valley and the Liverpool Plains in the
1820s and 1830s, acquiring vast amounts of land in the
process.
In the 1840s a tiny settlement sprang from what began as
a shepherd's out-station on the banks of Rocky Creek, at the
southern boundary of the 'Saumarez' sheep station,
established in 1834 by Henry Dumaresq (see entry on
Armidale).
A townsite was reserved in 1849 where a branch track
departed from the Great North Road heading north-west along
the Bundarra River. At this intersection Samuel McCrossin
established an inn, where the town's bowling greens are now
located.
However, the town really began with the discovery of gold
at Rocky River in 1851. A goldrush began the following year.
The village was gazetted in 1855.
New and more substantial finds at Mt Jones in 1856 caused
a renewal of activity which soon made the fields the largest
in northern NSW with some 4000 or 5000 miners on-site.
Sluicing operations began in 1857 and large numbers of
Chinese arrived in 1858 to rework the original alluvial
field. Chinese miners soon outnumbered Europeans, leading to
petitions demanding restrictions upon immigration. They
moved on to other fields when the surface gold was depleted
in the 1870s. Tunnelling by larger enterprises commenced in
the 1860s and continued until the early twentieth century.
The area also prospered from pastoral and agricultural
pursuits. Wheat was a major focus and McCrossin established
a large mill at Uralla in 1870. Still standing it now houses
a museum.
By 1871 the population was 254. Although wheat returns
diminished due to competition from South Australia in the
1870s Uralla prospered as a service centre to the wealthy
farming community. Local newspaper, the Uralla Times, was
established in 1873.
The town was declared a municipality in 1882 when the
railway arrived. The population, increased to 819 by 1891,
dropped to 681 by 1901 and jumped up to 1590 in 1911. After
the First World War land was resumed at Kentucky, south of
Uralla, for soldier settlement and orcharding began.
The Uralla Show is held each January. The town markets
occur on the second Sunday of the month from September to
May. There is an 18-hole golf course.
Things to see:
Visitors' Centre and Thunderbolt
Uralla's Visitors' Centre is located at the corner of Bridge
St (the name of the New England Highway as it passes through
town) and Salisbury St. They have pamphlets outlining a
self-guided heritage tour and can answer most questions, tel:
(02) 6778 4496.
Uralla is closely associated with the bushranger known as
Thunderbolt (alias Fred Ward) and at this same corner is a
lifesize statue of the outlaw on a horse. Nearby, just along
Salisbury St, is a plaque dedicated to Constable Walker who
killed Thunderbolt to the south of Uralla in 1870. Also at
the corner is a stand which plays pre-recorded messages
relating to Thunderbolt's life and death.
Ward was born at Windsor c.1835. He was sent to Cockatoo
Island Gaol in Sydney Harbour for ten years in 1856 for
horse theft. Receiving a ticket-of-leave in 1860 he was soon
charged with another horse theft and sent again to Cockatoo
Island to serve out the remainder of his original sentence
with an additional five years. In September 1863 he escaped
with Fred Britten and swam to shore.
For the next six and a-half years he robbed mail coaches,
as well as roadside inns, stores and private homes from
Maitland north to the Queensland border and west to Bourke.
At times he worked with a gang but, while his superior
skills as a horseman were probably responsible for his
evading capture for so long, his accomplices were not so
lucky and, consequently, he often worked alone.
In an inequitable society bushrangers were often seen as
romantic Robin Hood figures, particularly by members of the
disadvantaged majority who did not always have much respect
for the system of law and order. Thunderbolt acquired a
reputation, both locally and nationally, as a gentleman. It
was said he was always polite, particularly to women, and he
never killed anybody. Others, of course, considered him a
scoundrel.
One apocryphal story asserts that, after bailing up a
group of German musicians who were headed for Queensland and
who pleaded with him not to proceed with the robbery,
Thunderbolt promised that if he had luck at the horse races
he would repay them. He induced a song from them, obtained
their Queensland address and duly sent them their money
back, with interest. In another version he never took the
money. In any case the story typifies popular perceptions of
his generous and decent spirit.
On May 25, 1870 Thunderbolt held up a hawker at Blanch's
Inn. The Uralla police were alerted and Senior Constable
Mulhall and Constable Walker investigated. When they arrived
Ward was, by chance, trying out a new horse and hence fled
on an inferior and unfamiliar animal.
Shots were fired on both sides while Walker chased Ward
westwards for about 3 km along a ridge. At Kentucky Creek
Ward left his horse and swam across.
There are different versions of this story. It seems
clear that the constable shot Thunderbolt's horse, thereby
ensuring he didn't return to it at a later stage of the
chase. The two then met upstream. In one version it is said
that, after Ward refused to surrender, they both plunged
into the creek and moved towards each other with revolvers
drawn, but Ward was out of ammunition. Thunderbolt was shot,
allegedly with Walker's last bullet. He dropped into the
water, then resurfaced and lunged at Walker who hit him on
the head with the gun butt. When he rose again blood was
pouring from his mouth and he died.
McCrossin's Mill Museum and Thunderbolt Gallery
From the information centre head south-east for one block to
Salisbury and Maitland Sts. Near this intersection is one of
the town's main attractions, McCrossin's Mill Museum,
located in a three-storey flour mill built of brick and
granite in 1870 by Samuel McCrossin who opened the town's
first inn around 1850. Adjacent are some old stables built
in the 1860s in association with McCrossin's Post Office and
Store which was located where McRae's Store is now situated.
The museum contains a Thunderbolt exhibition, including
an effigy of his body on the table the corpse was laid out
upon. There is also a series of paintings relating to the
bushranger, an Aboriginal diorama, a Rocky River Goldfields
exhibition, including a recreated Chinese joss house which
features the contents of an actual joss house from the
mid-19th century goldfields.
Other displays include an exhibition of cricket bats, the
touching Corporal Cecil Stoker exhibition, relating to a
local soldier whose possessions were found bricked up in a
chimney, and a collection of rustic tools .
The museum is open daily from midday to 5.00 p.m. and
from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. in school holidays, tel: (02)
6778 3022.
New England Brass and Iron Lace Foundry
Continue on to the end of Salisbury St. Opposite is the New
England Brass and Iron Lace Foundry which has been operating
since 1872. It is open from 9.00 a.m. to 3.00 p.m. daily.
There is a small admission fee and coach tours are welcomed
by appointment, tel: (02) 6778 5065 or (018) 659 718. Note
that East St is discontinuous and hence the foundry cannot
be reached from the western end of the street.
Town Walk
Return to McCrossin's to start the heritage walk. Opposite
the museum, near Maitland St, is the old Literary Institute
(1886). 'Gartshore', at the south-eastern corner of
Salisbury St and Elizabeth Lane, dates from the 1880s, as
does the house diagonally opposite.
Return to Maitland St and turn right. In the block
between Salisbury and Hills Sts are some attractive late
19th century residences, including 'Monleys' (1880s) with
ornate cast-iron lacework and servants' quarters to the
rear. On the right-hand side is the Masonic Hall (1884). At
the corner of Hill and Maitlands Sts is the brick courthouse
with its rendered Classical facade and portico (1883-85).
Opposite is the Uniting Church.
Turn right into Hill St. At the T-intersection turn left
into Duke St to the railway station and stationmaster's
residence (1882).
Return along Hill St. Between Maitland St and Bridge St,
to the right, is the post office (1885). Almost opposite is
Coopers Hardware Store, built in 1876 as a skating rink.
Turn right into Bridge St. On the right is an arts and
crafts shop built in the 1870s as Bardsley's Wine Shop. At
34 Bridge St is a house dating from the 1870s. Over the road
is the Coachwood and Cedar Hotel-Motel built upon the basis
of the Great Northern Hotel (1881).
At the corner of Bridge and King Sts is St David's
Presbyterian Church (1904). Opposite is the Rock Hunter's
Rendezvous with a large collection of precious stones and
gold relics, housed in the old Commercial Hotel (1870s).
Also on the same corner is the Blue Trail Garage, originally
Kirkwoods Store (1860s).
Turn left into King St. At no. 55 is a brick cottage
dating from 1885, built on the site of Kirkwood's Flour
Mill.
Turn left into Queen St and to the immediate right is
Alma Park, situated upon Uralla's first cemetery. A Cobb &
Co. changing station was also on this site.
Turn left into Hill St. To the right, at no. 48, is
'Gunyah' (1905), once the home of the Uralla Times' editor.
At the corner of Hill and Bridge Sts is the National
Australia Bank building, erected in 1892 as the Australian
Joint Stock Bank. The Thunderbolt Inn, over the road, dates
from 1909 when it was erected as the Imperial Hotel.
In Bridge St, between Hill and Salisbury Sts, to the
right, are Reg Stoker's Store (1870) and the Salvation Army
Citadel (1872).
Cross over Salisbury St past the information centre. At
112 Bridge St is the old Court House Hotel (1870). Opposite
is the former Oddfellows Hall (1888). At the corner with
Park St is St John's Anglican Church (1886-88).
Turn right, along Park St. At the corner with Queen St,
is the original Uralla Public School (1871), now the Matrons
Hospital.
Continue along Park St, turning left into Uralla St. At
the intersection with John St is the Uralla Cemetery and
Thunderbolt's Grave.
|
| The grave of Fred Ward -
Thunderbolt |
Thunderbolt's Grave
The grave is clearly marked and located on the eastern side
of the cemetery. There is still a body of local opinion that
the grave contains the remains of Thunderbolt's
brother-in-law and that Ward was actually killed in a brawl
in the USA years later. However, the corpse was positively
identified by an friend of Ward's at the post-mortem. It is
also widely accepted that the body put on display for some
time prior to burial. A plaque at the cemetery outlines
Thunderbolt's career.
Military Museum
About 500 m south of the visitors' centre along the highway,
just over East St and on the right-hand side, is the Uralla
Military Museum, open seven days a week from 9.00 a.m. to
5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6778 4600. It has an interesting
collection, including personal material and items pertaining
to national military history.
|
| Thunderbolt Rock
|
Thunderbolt Rock
Thunderbolt's Rock is essentially a large granite outcrop
which has been attacked by graffitists. It is located on the
eastern side of the New England Highway 7.2 km south of
Uralla. Although it is claimed that Thunderbolt used the
outcrop as a vantage point and hide-out it is possible that
he had little if any real connection with the agglomeration,
but Blanch's Inn, where the final ride of Thunderbolt
started, was located only about 300 m further south of the
rock, on the opposite side of the road. A few old bricks
remain and a depression in the ground where the cellars were
located.
Horseriding
Harlow Park Horse Riding is located 4 km from Uralla in
Gostwyck Rd. They offer rides varying in length from one
hour to pack horse treks of several days duration. There are
also riding camps for children and riding holidays, tel:
(02) 6778 4631.
Wilderness Rides offer guided treks within the New
England Blue Mountain Gorge, 30 km east of Uralla via the
Gostwyck Rd, tel: (02) 6778 4631. Both organisations will
arrange transport to their area if desired.
Gostwyck
Head east out of town along East St. In about 10 or 11 km,
to the left, is Gostwyck Chapel, a beautiful little building
at the end of an avenue of 200 elm trees on the grassy banks
of a willow-bordered stream. Vines cover the chapel in a
blaze of autumnal reds around April. .
The chapel is part of the Gostwyck property, purchased by
Edward Gostwyck Cory in 1832. Cory was an early European
landholder in the Hunter Valley. He sold the property in
1834 to William Dangar who then passed it on to his brother
Henry. Henry became famous as a pioneering surveyor of the
Hunter Valley and Liverpool Plains in the 1820s and 1830s.
He also became a wealthy pastoralist with extensive runs in
the Hunter and New England areas. Henry established Gostwyck
in 1834. He also designed and built the 'Deeargee
(originally 'Gostwyck') Woolshed' in 1851. To see the
woolshed continue on in an easterly direction for a short
distance and turn right into the gravel road.
One of the largest and oldest woolsheds in Australia on
one of New England's oldest stations it is an octagonal
building with a diameter of 15 m. It was used by 24 blade
shearers working in a circle with a 22-m tail through which
the sheep passed from their pens to the shearing floor. It
also became one of the first sheds to use a Wolseley
shearing machine (1890). The three-tier roof possesses a
clerestory of glass ventilators allowing shearers to work in
a well-lit and well-ventilated open-plan environment.
The woolroom is a brick building which connects to the
shed on its southern side. Built shortly after the shed
A.A. Dangar acquired the property in the 1860s and
planted the elms between the homestead and chapel. He
transferred the property to his son Clive in 1911. His widow
built the chapel after he was killed in the First World War.
Visitors can visit the site and inspect the externalities
but are not permitted inside the buildings.
Dangars Lagoon
At the intersection of East St and Duke St the road to
Walcha heads south. In about 3 km it passes Dangars Lagoon
Nature Reserve on the left. This is a wetland haven with
over 100 bird species which are listed in a pamphlet
available from the Armidale office of the National Parks and
Wildlife Office, tel: (02) 6773 7211. There are picnic
facilities and a viewing hutch approached by a screened
walkway.
Salisbury Court
Continue south along the same road. About 10 km from Uralla
it crosses Salisbury Waters, a headwater of the Macleay
River system. Beyond this point, to the right, is Salisbury
Court, a single-storey stone house built by Matthew Henry
Marsh (1845-47). It is open for inspection but only to coach
groups, tel: (02) 6778 4496. Morning teas and lunch are
served on the verandah ad there is a guided tour.
Salisbury Court has a six-panelled front door, French
shuttered windows and a shingled roof, now covered with
iron. The wooden verandah and verandah posts were replaced
with stone and a wing was added at the rear c.1890. The
outbuildings include an adobe structure which was a dairy.
The property was first squatted by Edward Gostwyck Cory
and acquired by Marsh in 1840. He settled there after
briefly returning to England where he married.
Rocky River Goldfields
The old Rocky River Goldfields are about 5 km north of town
along the Bundarra Rd. There isn't a lot to see other than
small holes in the ground, although the site is quite
historic. Gold was found here in 1851 and a goldrush ensued.
New and more substantial finds in 1856 on Mt Jones caused an
intensified renewal of activity which made the fields the
largest in northern NSW with some 4000 or 5000 miners
on-site. Sluicing operations began in 1857. Large numbers of
Chinese arrived in 1858 to rework the original alluvial
field located at Maitland Point. They moved on to other
fields when the surface gold was depleted in the 1870s.
Tunnelling by larger enterprises commenced in the 1860s and
continued until the early twentieth century.
The area is a little unsafe now owing to subsidence so
the best way to investigate the site is with Uralla
Goldfield Tours, tel: (02) 6772 6828.
There is a picnic area by the river where you are free to
frolic.
Fossicking
Fossickers can investigate the Rocky River area to the west
of town. Head south along the highway a short distance and
turn right at the Kingstown turnoff. There are some
well-signposted fossicking areas about 6 km along this road
with toilets, barbecues, picnic areas and fresh water.
Equipment can be obtained from the visitors' centre.
Mt Yarrowyck Aboriginal Cultural Walk
About 23 km north of town along the Bundarra Road you will
see the Armidale turnoff on the right. About another
kilometre past this there is a small signpost directing you
to turn right onto the gravel road which leads to a carpark
and picnic area where there are plaques pointing out the
highlights of a 3-km loop walk to an Aboriginal rock art
site in a small shelter on the south-western slopes of Mt
Yarrowyck. On a 2.7-m rock surface are some red ochre
paintings, dominated by bird track motifs. There are also
stick figures and other geometric shapes with the red
pigments and technique being considered characteristic of
the New England area. It is not a spectacular ceremonial
site but an information cave that told passers-by what type
of food was available.
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