|
| Disused opal mines near
White Cliffs |
White Cliffs
Remarkable opal mining town famous for its underground
accommodation.
The real way to see White Cliffs, if the photographs are to
be believed, is from the air. It looks like a strange
moonscape with an estimated 50 000 disused diggings, all
little like ants nests with neat piles of dirt surrounding
holes of optimism dug by miners believing that somewhere
below the surface of this inhospitable land lay a hidden
fortune in opals.
Most visitors, however, have to drive the 98 km (the road
is now almost entirely bitumen with only 5.5km of dirt road
which is due to be sealed in 2004) road from Wilcannia
(which, in turn, is 974 km northwest of Sydney) through
scrubby, semi-desert saltbush plains inhabited by kangaroos
and every imported feral pest (cats, rabbits and foxes)
known to the Australian bush. White Cliffs is located 122
metres above sea level and has a miserably low average
annual rainfall of 234 mm.
Arriving in White Cliffs is like arriving in any opal
mining settlement. It is immediately obvious that every
regular activity comes a bad last to the one thing which
drives the town - seeking a fortune! The pub is dusty and
lonely, the general store is small and simple, the roads are
rough and unsealed, the settlement is spread in every
direction, and the attempts at 'civilisation' are crude and
simplistic.White Cliffs housing operates on the iceberg
principle with most of the town's 'buildings' being
underground. For every building you see on the surface there
are as many as ten more underground.
White Cliffs came into existence in the most unusual way.
Instead of experiencing a rush it experienced a gradual
emergence. It is known that opals were found in the area as
early as 1884 but it wasn't until 1889 that any real
interest was shown. 1889 was a year of drought and four
kangaroo shooters were hired to reduce their numbers on the
Momba Pastoral Company Station. The roo shooters found opals
and realising their potential value sent them off to
Adelaide for valuation by a man with the improbable name of
Tullie Cornthwaite Wollaston.
Wollaston was sufficiently impressed with the samples to
make the journey from Adelaide to White Cliffs. He
subsequently became the town's 'promoter' selling White
Cliffs opals in Europe and the USA.
Wollaston later observed: 'I at once made a trip to the
spot. There were two tents and a bough shed, and the party
of kangaroo shooters who had found the stones were, on my
arrival, discussing the advisability of pitching them in the
nearest pot-hole and continuing their search for the merry
marsupial. I was asked to make an offer for the parcel, and
I named £140, prepared to spring £10, but my bid was
promptly snapped. That was the first purchase of White
Cliffs opal, and started the field.'
By 1890 a small settlement had come into existence. It
was around this time that it got the name White Cliffs as a
simple description of the white shale which every miner had
to dig through to find opals. William Johnstone arrived in
1892 setting up the first store and hotel. The real growth
of the town did not occur until 1893 when news of some good
finds drew miners to the area precipitating the development
of the town's infrastructure. By 1897 White Cliffs had grown
to a point where there were about 1000 people.
However, building materials were scarce and expensive and
the heat in summer was oppressive. Consequently, around
1894, miners started converting their old shafts into homes.
The hills being solid sandstone rather than earth the
dugouts were in no danger of collapsing and the temperature
was constant. It is proof positive of the growth of the
subterranean lifestyle that by 1900 there was an underground
bar at the Centennial Hall. Today there are around 140.
The town peaked in 1902 when opals worth about £140 000
were found. The area continued to attract large numbers of
miners until about 1914 when the combination of declining
opal deposits and the call of war saw the town reduced to
the small settlement it is today.
The town's decline continued and there were times when
there were only a few people living in the town. However the
patronage of the nearby rural workers and property owners
ensured that the pub and the General Store survived. Today
the permanent population is around 200 and this rises to
about 500 in winter when gem seekers come from the south. In
1987 the production of opals from the White Cliffs fields
was estimated to be $150 million.
Over the years remarkable opals have been found in White
Cliffs. The White Cliffs opal 'pineapples' and opalised
shells are commonplace. By far the most unusual was the
opalised remains of plesiosaur which was found in 1976. It
is nearly 2 metres long and is believed to be around 100
million years old. For years it was on display in White
Cliffs but it was recently removed to Sydney. The locals
hope the plesiosaur will be once again on display in the
near future.
Things to see:
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|
| The grassless Bill
O'Reilly Oval |
Heritage Trail
A heritage trail has been created to direct you to a dozen
significant sites around town where there are durable
information signs to enhance an appreciation of the town's
history. A free guiding pamphlet (or a book with more
detailed information on the sites) is available from
numerous outlets. A more general history, also available
locally, is Saltbush Rainbow by the late Gwen Rowe. Another
way to garner some local history is by taking a guided tour
with Bruce Robjohns Opal Wanderer (0428 835 034).
Bill O'Reilly Oval
For cricketing fans the delightful Bill O'Reilly Oval (turn
right at the pub) is nothing but hard red dirt. It must be
one of the easiest ovals in Australia to score a four on.
Bill O'Reilly's father was the town's first school teacher
and the great cricketer is the town's most famous son.
St Mary's Anglican Church
There's St Mary's Anglican Church standing forlornly but
fittingly on Church Street east of the Post Office. It is
not uncommon in the late afternoon to see kangaroos standing
opposite as though they are waiting for evensong to
commence.
|
| St. Marys Anglican
Church, White Cliffs |
Solar Power Station
The town's one real concession to modernity and
sophistication is the experimental solar power station with
its huge parabolic disks standing in rows in the harsh
landscape. They look like a space station in a 1950s sci-fi
television serial. It was designed by the Australian
National University as the basic electricity supply for the
town and first came into operation in 1981. White Cliffs is
justifiably proud of the fact that it was the first town to
utilise solar power to furnish at least a small part of the
town's electricity needs. The 14 parabolic dish collectors
are 5 metres in diameter. They follow the sun and collect
the energy which is converted by means of a newly-installed
photovoltaic cell. The original model concentrated the sun's
energy into steel coils. Boiling water in the coils conveyed
steam to a steam engine which produced 25Kw. In 1999 the
3000 mirrors were resurfaced and the station is now capable
of producing 70,000 Kw of power a year. It cannot be
inspected but can still be photographed. Opal Wanderer has
more information.
PJ's Underground Bed and Breakfast
PJ's is a charming underground residence comprising 5 guest
rooms, a lounge room, dining room, kitchen, private
residential quarters, an underground spa garden, a toilet
and shower area, a mine and an underground opal and gift
showroom as well as an above-ground garden-barbecue area
characterised by numerous potted plants, an ageing dog and a
lively and noisy community of green tree frogs.
This classy bed and breakfast destination has defeated
the strictures of the NRMA's inflexible star-rating system
and currently has 3 1/2 stars which is pretty remarkable
given that underground plumbing means shared shower, bath
and toilet facilities. If there was a ratings measure for
uniqueness it would probably have six stars. It has a gift
shop and it is open for inspection.
Post Office
The White Cliffs Post Office is worth inspecting simply
because it baffles common sense. In a place where everyone
was digging holes to get out of the heat the Post Office
decided to construct an office out of corrugated iron - one
of the hottest materials known. It was completed on 25 March
1900.
Opal Pioneer Federation Park
Near the Post Office is the newly constructed Opal Pioneer
Federation Park which is near the Pioneer Children's
Cemetery.
Pioneer Children's Cemetery
There are a number of local sites of interest including the
Pioneer Children's Cemetery (1890-92) - five graves most of
which are children who died from typhoid and other diseases
which prospered in the mining community because of the
difficulties of maintaining proper sanitary standards. There
is also the grave of a man who died from thirst. The graves
of the children are believed to be those of the Richardson
family. Alfred Richardson was a member of the kangaroo
shooting party which discovered opals at White Cliffs.
Historic Dugouts
People started living underground as early as 1894 in White
Cliffs. From the Pioneer Cemetery it is easy to see the
first historic dugouts in the walls of the hill opposite.
Other Attractions
Jock's Place, an underground dugout home, museum and old
mine with an opal seam in the wall, is open 9.00 a.m. - 5.00
p.m. daily, tel: (08) 8091 6753. Wellington's Underground
Art Gallery is open by appointment, tel: (08) 8091 6627.
Joe's Stubby Opal Shop is a house built of 54 000 bottles,
open daily, tel: (08) 8091 6642. Outback Treasures has opal
jewellery, photographs and Aboriginal art of the Barkindji
tribe. It is open from 9.00 a.m. - 6.00 p.m. daily, tel:
(08) 8091 6634. Top Level Opal is an underground gem
display, open 9.30 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. (3.00 p.m. during
daylight saving) every day but Sunday, tel: (08) 8091 6623,
and PJ's Underground-Dugout Tour is a modern dugout home
situated in a 100-year-old opal mine. It offers bed and
breakfast and is open from 8.30 daily, tel: (08) 8091 6626.
Remember, the local roads are gravel they can be accessed
by conventional 2-wheel vehicles but they can be hazardous
or impassable after wet weather. Phone (08) 8091 5155 for an
up-to-date report on their condition. For rodeo lovers a
gymkhana is held at White Cliffs every May.
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