|
| The main street of
Wollombi |
Wollombi (including Laguna and Bucketty)
A picturesque and historic rural village in the mountains
south of the Hunter Valley
Wollombi is a very small but picturesque and historic rural
village. Where many country towns appear slight and
ephemeral Wollombi's modest size is offset by its
substantial 19th-century sandstone buildings. Its
considerable charm arises in part from the quality of its
architecture but also from its leisurely feel and its
idyllic location within a small and pretty valley which is
rife with the sound of birds and ringed around with imposing
tree-lined mountains.
Wollombi is 29 km south-west of Cessnock and 142 km north
of Sydney (take the Peats Ridge exit off the Newcastle
Freeway).
The original inhabitants of the locality were either the
Darkinjang, Awabakal or Wanaruah Aboriginal peoples,
depending on the source. The town's name is an Aboriginal
term said to mean 'meeting place of the rivers'. Whereas
they apparently pronounced it 'Wu-lum-bee', it is today
pronounced Wo (as in wok) - lum (as in thumb) - bi (as in
buy). There are a number of historic Aboriginal sites in the
surrounding countryside which is thought to have been used
as a ceremonial meeting place. There are rock engravings,
hand stencils, tribal markings and other images in caves,
shelters and outcrops.
The village of Wollombi developed at a major junction in
the Great North Road from Sydney which forked here, heading
north-east to Maitland and north through Broke to Singleton.
The first road into the Hunter Valley it was built by 3000
convicts under conditions of considerable severity and
hardship between 1826 and 1834. Remnants such as stone
culverts, bridges and retaining walls remain, particularly
in the area between Wollombi and Wisemans Ferry.
Veterans of the Napoleonic Wars were granted 40-hectare
lots here from about 1830 as they were discharged from NSW
regiments. Some of them are buried in the cemetery.
A village site was reserved in 1833-34 and allotments
became available from 1838. The settlement developed as a
service centre for the farming community and for travellers
on the Great North Road although the development of the
steam trade along the Hunter River saw road traffic decline.
John McDougall, former convict overseer during the
construction of the Great North Road, settled here as
postmaster in 1838. He left that post in 1840 when he built
the Governor Gipps Inn. McDougall also owned two 40-acre
farms hereabouts and donated land in 1840 for the first
Catholic Church which was washed away by floods in 1892.
He bought more land in the early 1840s but his inn closed
in 1845 during a bout of temperance and he moved on to the
Rising Sun Inn at Millfield where he had previously been
lashed by bushranger Edward Davis (see entry on
Cessnock).
By 1851 the population was recorded as 105. The first
school opened in 1860 and the courthouse and police station
in 1866. Rust destroyed the wheat industry in the 1860s and
local farmers turned to grazing. By 1911 the population had
reached a high of 406 but it had declined to 151 in 1961.
In recent years Wollombi has experienced something of a
resurgence. The 1991 census indicated that there were 823
persons in the Yango-Coolamon Planning District which
includes Laguna and Bucketty. A good number of these would
live in and around Wollombi. This small regrowth is based on
several factors. The village has been reoriented in recent
years to the tourist trade with several shops selling gifts,
clothing, bric-a-brac and second-hand goods. Furthermore it
has become a desirable place to live for commuters and
weekenders. There are still some small subsistence farms and
some grazing in the district.
Things to see:
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|
| The pond and cemetery at
the entrance to Wollombi |
Approaching from Cessnock
The Wollombi Rd from Cessnock is a very pleasant drive
through some peaceful, picturesque and sparsely populated
countryside with just the occasional timber cottage adjacent
the road or on the hillside. Some are guesthouses (ring 02
4990 4477 for more information on local accommodation or
other matters relating to Wollombi). As you approach
Wollombi the Anzac Reserve, a pleasant picnic spot, is to
the right.
Wollombi School
As the road bends to the right Wollombi Public School is on
the left-hand side. Built in 1881 it is a small building of
dressed sandstone with a tall gabled roof. The headmaster's
residence is also of dressed sandstone with a hipped roof,
timber annexe and front verandah.
Strangely situated directly opposite the school is the
cemetery which has been used since the establishment of the
village in 1838.
Old Post Office
You soon come to the main cluster of buildings which stand
adjacent Wollombi Rd just before it terminates at a
T-intersection. There are newer buildings amidst the old but
they have clearly been approved as designs sympathetic to
the overall feel of the streetscape. To the left, as you
approach from Cessnock, are a couple of gift shops and a
coffee shop on the hillside. On lower ground is the
beautiful old two-storey post office (1839) with a hipped
roof, pediment, front verandah and rear lean-to. The ground
floor started its life as an inn that served as a changing
station for coach horses travelling along the Great North
Road. The first postmaster was John McDougall, a convict
overseer during the construction of the Great North Road.
The first telephone link from Sydney to Newcastle passed
through this exchange.
Catholic Church
Next door is St Michael's Catholic Church (1893), built of
dressed sandstone which was retrieved from an earlier church
erected between 1840 and 1843 on land donated by John
McDougall 1 km north of the present site (on the road to
Paynes Crossing and Broke). It was destroyed by floods in
1892.
The last building on the left is The Forge Gallery, a
replica-style slab hut with frequently-changing displays
which is open weekends or by appointment, tel: (02) 4998
3318.
General Store
Opposite these buildings, on the right-hand side of the
road, is another fine collection of buildings. The first is
a rusticated and antiquated slab barn built in the 1840s,
which is to open as a pottery and art gallery. Next door is
Gray's Inn, a restaurant with accommodation. The general
store dates back to the 19th century and, judging by
historic photographs, is little changed. It is still
thriving and serves as a de facto village meeting place.
Museum
The last building on the right is the Endeavour Museum,
located in the old, single-storey sandstone courthouse which
was designed by Mortimer Lewis and erected in 1866 to
replace a slab lock-up which apparently leaked prisoners
like a sieve. A modest building, it has a hipped roof with
gables and a front verandah. The museum is open most days
(see the sign outside).
Wollombi Tavern
Wollombi Rd terminates at a T-junction. Directly opposite is
Wollombi Tavern. A previous owner, Mel Jurd, was the
inventor of Dr Jurd's Jungle Juice. This alcoholic beverage
was apparently created in 1960 after his pub was damaged by
an explosion. Its lack of charm as a drink was compensated
for by the considerable degree of mythology surrounding its
supposed potency.
|
| St John's Anglican
Church, Wollombi |
St John's Anglican Church
If you turn right, along the road to
Broke and
Singleton, you will come to St John's Anglican Church.
Built between 1846 and 1849 it represents an early effort by
noted colonial architect Edmund Blacket. This small simple
Gothic sandstone church has been little altered apart from a
small extension of the nave in the 1860s. It features lancet
windows, gables, a small bellcote and projecting porch.
There is some notable wrought ironwork and the pews and
woodwork are of fine local cedar. An old sconce, indicating
the church's antiquity, is on the wall by the pulpit where
it lighted the cleric's text. The picket fence and gate with
wrought-iron lantern are original.
Behind the church is a shop which is soon to open as an
art gallery. The road which branches off to the left,
opposite the church, leads to Undercliff Boutique Winery and
Etching Gallery, open weekends and holidays or by
appointment, tel: (02) 4998 3322.
Mulla Villa
A left turn at the end of Wollombi Rd will take you south
along The Old Northern Road to Bucketty, Central Mangrove
and the Newcastle-Sydney Freeway. 1 km from the tavern you
cross the south arm of Wollombi Brook and another 800 m
brings you to Mulla Villa. On the right-hand side of the
road, this two-storey Georgian cottage was convict-built in
1840-41 for David Dunlop, the first magistrate for the
police district of Wollombi and the MacDonald River
(1839-1847).
David Dunlop and his wife Eliza were both interested in
Aboriginal culture and welfare. David understood their
obligations to tribal matters and advocated allowing them to
return to their tribes when a particular job was finished.
Eliza also offended some contemporaries with her displays of
sympathy for indigenous ways though the Reverend Threlkeld
was a supporter. Both David and Eliza are buried in the
Church of England section of the Wollombi cemetery. A book
called Two Early Colonials was written by their descendant
Margaret de Salis. Today it is an award-winning guesthouse
with restaurant/coffee shop, tel: (02) 4998 3254.
Laguna
It is 7 km along The Old Northern Road from Wollomi Tavern
to the little village of Laguna. Assistant surveyor Heneage
Finch was granted 1000 acres here in the late 1820s and he
started a farm whilst he was surveying land in the Wollombi
area and in charge of the construction of the Great North
Road. He later sold his property to Richard Wiseman. Like
his father Solomon Wiseman (see entry on
Wisemans Ferry) Richard capitalised on the
through-traffic created by the construction of the Great
North Road. He established an inn adjacent the new track at
Laguna in 1829. Around 1835 he built Laguna House opposite
the inn. You can still see it on the roadside south of
Laguna. It is situated at a bend in the road, to the right,
9.9 km south of Wollombi Tavern.
This gracious single-storey sandstone Georgian house
features a hipped roof and a stone-flagged verandah with
columns. There is a kitchen to the rear, a brick structure
with a shingle roof from the same era and some vernacular
outbuildings which date from a little later.
Horseriding is available at Stapleton Station on Watagan
Creek Road, Laguna, tel: (02) 4998 8408.
Yengo National Park
Just north of Laguna House (1.6 km south of Laguna School)
Yango Creek Rd heads west off the main road into Yengo
National Park. One of the state's most recently declared
parks it is the largest remaining area of natural wilderness
in the state. There are dramatic differences of climate,
landform and altitude which have encouraged a great
diversity of plant and animal life, including some rare
species.
Aboriginal occupation of the area dates back at least 12
000 years. It was situated on a major trade route and has
close associations with the dreamtime. Mt Yengo is believed
to be the site where the spirit Baiaime departed into the
sky after he finished his creation tasks. There are numerous
Aboriginal sites in the park, particularly in the most
elevated sections, which were used for orientation. There
are stone arrangements, campsites, middens and rock art
which frequently refers to the Baiaime story.
Although white contact dates back to the early 19th
century the rugged terrain and infertile sandstone beds have
discouraged long-term incursions and the ecology of most of
the area has been left largely undisturbed. However, there
are sections of volcanic basalt, especially on the mountain
tops, which are more fertile and which have been farmed and
logged over the years.
A remote and rugged area of sandstone gorges it has few
facilities and hence offers solitude and self-reliant
recreation. However, the drive outlined below is manageable,
if the weather is dry, in a 2WD and it takes in the
excellent views at Finchley Trig. Be warned however, it's
easy to get lost so stick strictly to the directions
provided. It should also be pointed out that a local farmer
wrote to us saying "I am sick of using my tractor to rescue
tourists who have ventured up Yango Creek Road with campers
and over-sized vehicles. This is a rough track not suitable
for all vehicles."
Yango Creek Rd, which soon becomes gravel, immediately
begins to climb into the mountains. It reaches a
T-intersection after 2.2 km. Turn left into Upper Yango
Creek Rd. Do not take the left which appears to the right
after 200 m but proceed ahead for 2.3 km across a timber
bridge, then turn right across the cattle grid. The road is
steep, winding and narrow so drive slowly and cautiously.
1.8 km beyond the cattle grid take Finchley Track to the
left.
It is 8.7 km from the grid to Finchley Viewing Platform
on the left-hand side of the road. The views are truly
panoramic and quite beautiful. The flat-topped mountain to
the west is Mt Yengo.
Return to your car. 400 m beyond the lookout is a branch.
Turn left into the Yango Track. After 900 m there is a road
on the right that leads to Finchley Camping Area. Continue
south along the main road for around 10 km taking the left
turn at the first major intersection into the Boree Track
which leads down the mountains to Boree and back to a
T-intersection. Turn right and you will find yourself back
where you started on Upper Yango Creek Rd. Turn right again
into Yango Creek Rd which will lead back to the Old Northern
Road at Laguna.
Convict Culvert
4.4 km south of Laguna House, along the Old Northern Road,
there is a signpost to the right that reads: 'Convict Trail,
Great North Road, Murray's Run Culvert, 1830'. Park your car
on the roadside if you wish to inspect the drainage arch in
question which is clearly visible. It was made of carefully
assembled dressed stone without mortar by convicts working
under severe circumstances on difficult terrain as part of
the construction of the Great North Road. There is an
explanatory signpost.
Koolang Observatory
The turnoff to Koolang Observatory in Bucketty (population
180) is 13.1 km south of Laguna House and 23 km south of
Wollombi.
The options are a walk-through, a 45-minute short day
program and a longer two-hour session which is run both in
the day and at night. Prices are reasonable and programs for
school groups are a specialty.
Though by no means the size of a publicly-funded
observatory Koolang does contain the largest privately owned
public-viewing telescope in Australia. The sun can be
studied in the day time though there is, of course, far more
to see at night, if the weather is good. There are models,
video displays and explanatory talks accompanying the two
longer sessions concerning the solar system and astronomic
technology.
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