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| Wollongong Harbour
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Wollongong
Major steel city south of Sydney. The third largest city
in New South Wales.
Introduction
Wollongong, with a population of over 250 000, is the
third-largest city in NSW and the tenth-largest in
Australia. It is situated 81 km south of Sydney via the
Princes Highway within a district known as the Illawarra,
from an Aboriginal word, 'allowrie' or 'eloura' meaning
'white clay mountain' or 'high place near the sea' or even
'between the high place and the sea'. 'Wollongong' itself is
said to be onomatopoeic, from 'Wol-Lon-Yuh', an imitation of
the sound of breaking waves and ebbing surf, hence 'the
sound of the sea', although 'five clouds' and 'hard ground
near the water' have also been proposed. Taken together
these two names reflect the fact that the region is a
relatively narrow strip of land hemmed in by mountains to
the west and the ocean to the east.
There is a perception about Wollongong which bears no
relation to the delights of this charming and beautiful
city. It's hard to pinpoint when people started thinking of
it as big, industrial, smelly, smoky, and very ugly. Maybe
it was all those school excursions to the BHP Steelworks at
Port Kembla. Maybe it was just the knowledge that Wollongong
was a major iron and steel producer. Maybe it was the image
of mountains of coal and of huge smokestacks belching
pollution into the air. Whatever created the image it did
Wollongong a great disservice. When you think of Wollongong
you really need to think again. It is a great place to go
for a day out or for a holiday. It offers the traveller a
sophisticated shopping area, excellent beaches, some of the
most spectacular scenery on the NSW coast, sites of great
natural beauty and some ideal fishing spots. The city's
Botanic Gardens are a wonderful respite. Situated near the
remarkable Gleniffer Brae they are cool and beautiful with
extensive displays. The port and Wollongong Harbour are both
genuinely interesting places to visit and the town's
history, particularly its coalmining background, is
fascinating.
History of the City
If it hadn't been for a heavy surf Captain Cook would have
made his first landing in NSW within the Illawarra, though
he did note, in his log book, the attractive appearance of
the shore and the presence of Aborigines - the Wodi Wodi
tribe, who had been in the area for at least 20 000 years.
He also named 'Red Point' (Port Kembla) and 'a round hill
top of which look'd like the Crown of a hatt' (Mount
Kembla), subsequently called 'Hat Hill' by Flinders. Cook
continued north and landed at Botany Bay the following day.
The first Europeans to officially set foot in the
vicinity and to meet the Aborigines of the Illawarra (who
claimed that there were already several whites, presumably
escaped convicts, living amongst them) were explorers George
Bass and Matthew Flinders and their servant William Martin
in 1796. Sailing south in the tiny Tom Thumb their boat was
overturned at Towradgi Point.
In search of fresh water and a place to dry their powder
and mend a broken oar they stopped at what is now Port
Kembla where they were approached by two Aborigines who led
them to Lake Illawarra. There numerous others gathered on
the shore and during an encounter Flinders gave a number of
the locals a shave in an attempt to play for time and defuse
hostilities.
The small islands off Port Kembla they named 'Martin
Islands' in honour of William Martin's baling efforts, which
kept their bark afloat at a crucial moment. However, the
name did not stick and 'Five Islands' was the title bestowed
not only upon them but upon the entire region in the early
colonial days. The party then camped at a point probably
just north of Bellambi Point before returning to Sydney.
The following year the survivors of the wreck of the
Sydney Cove passed through the area. The ship had developed
a leak and beached on the Furneaux Islands in Bass Strait.
Seventeen of the crew set out by boat for help but were
wrecked at Point Hicks in Victoria and continued the journey
by land. Only three survived the harrowing trip to Sydney,
thereby becoming the first Europeans to make an overland
trip in Australia of any duration.
Bass initially made an eight-day trip with two of the
Cove's men intended to search out two crewmen left behind in
the Illawarra and to investigate the survivors' reports of
coal. This Bass found at Coalcliff and elsewhere at the
northern end of the Illawarra, though it would be fifty
years before the seams of the Illawarra were exploited.
Later that year , in another voyage, Bass visited Wollongong
Harbour.
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| Wollongong from Sublime
Point |
In 1803 a Captain Nicholls shipped cattle into the
Shellharbour district when the Sydney area was in drought.
In 1804 Captain Kent was authorised to explore the South
Coast and botanist Robert Brown also visited the region some
time between 1800 and 1805.
In 1805 surveyor James Meehan noted the tremendous stands
of huge red cedar trees in the area. The (illegal) pillaging
of the South Coast's timber reserves to feed the demand in
Sydney for softwoods appears to have commenced around 1810.
In 1815 Charles Throsby and party hacked a track from
Liverpool to the Illawarra escarpment and down through an
area near Bulli Pass to confirm what his Aboriginal guides
had told him: that here was excellent pasturage. He soon
returned with his livestock and set up the first stockman's
hut at what is now the corner of Smith and Harbour Streets,
Wollongong.
Others followed and Governor Macquarie sent John Oxley
down to survey the area and negotiate free land grants with
the graziers. However, few of the landowners initially took
up residence, instead leaving stockmen in charge, who lived
in crude makeshift dwellings.
Conflict arose with the local Aborigines and, in 1826, a
contingent of soldiers was sent to reinforce the claims of
the settlers and perhaps to assert order amongst the unruly
timber-getters. They established themselves at Port Kembla
(the first land grant being made in that area in 1817) but
moved on to Wollongong in 1829. Their presence represented
the effective founding of townships at those two sites.
Cases were initially heard in the commandant's tent and in a
slab hut from 1830. The first church services were held in
1831 and the first hotel opened c.1833. Although the land
was originally set aside for grazing, agriculture (mostly
grains and potatoes) soon asserted itself.
The town plan was gazetted in 1834 and the first regular
steamship service to Sydney began that year. Convict labour
was used to cut a path down Mt Keira in 1835-36 and to carve
a safe harbour out between 1837 and 1844 so that passengers
could step rather than wade ashore. Dairying developed in
the region in the 1840s as cedar supplies were trailing off.
The first government school opened in 1851 and the newspaper
the Illawarra Mercury was established in 1855. Henry
Kendall, one of Australia's most-noted 19th-century poets,
lived in what is now Fairy Meadow or Corrimal in the 1850s
and wrote a number of poems about his experience of the
area.
In 1856 the population of Wollongong was recorded as 864.
The Bulli Pass route, investigated in 1844, was opened to
wheeled traffic in 1868. The railway arrived in 1887.
More importantly, the region's first coal mine commenced
operations at Mt Keira in 1849. As steam power developed and
was applied to shipping and manufactures the demand for coal
increased and, by 1880, there were ten mines along the
Illawarra escarpment, giving birth to a string of mining
villages which now constitute the northern suburbs of the
City of Greater Wollongong. As exports accelerated there was
a need for improved transportation, processing and port
facilities. Tramways were laid from two of the mines to
Wollongong Harbour to transport coal skips which were drawn
first by horses and later by locomotives.
In the 1860s Belmore Basin was constructed at Wollongong
Harbour. However, even this proved inadequate. By 1885 1600
ships passed through the harbour every year.
Work commenced on the establishment of a smelting works
on the western shore of Lake Illawarra in 1895 and harbour
facilities were developed at Shellharbour. However, the
smelting operation ran into financial trouble and was
transferred to Port Kembla in 1906, which soon emerged as
the main port. Its shipping history began in 1883 when a
jetty was erected to service the output from the Mount
Kembla mine, the source of the port's name.
Work on the inner and outer harbours commenced at Port
Kembla in 1898. A cokeworks was followed by copper refining
in 1908, metal manufacturing in 1918, fertiliser production
in 1921 and, most crucially, in 1928, Hoskins Iron and Steel
transferred its operations from Lithgow to Port Kembla. This
led to considerable expansion of operations and of the
fledgling township of Port Kembla. BHP purchased the venture
in 1935 and immigration after World War II fed the labour
needs of what has become the largest steelworks in Australia
and the largest steelworks owned by BHP anywhere in the
world.
The influx of migrants caused a rapid population increase
and fostered a highly multicultural community. World
recession and rationalization in the 1980s led to
significant unemployment in the region. Today, fishing,
manufacturing, textiles, clothing and tourism supplement the
income provided by the steelworks, coalmining and dairying.
Noted British novelist D.H. Lawrence lived in the
Illawarra in 1922 while writing Kangaroo (see entry on
Thirroul).
Local festivals include Seafood and Sail at Wollongong
Harbour in mid-February and Harbourfest, held in May at Port
Kembla Harbour with a street parade, fireworks, live
entertainment, street theatre, children's activities, a
waterskiing display and a circus. Folklorica in June is a
multicultural celebration with parade that centres around
Wollongong's city centre. The Wollongong Visitor Centre has
a comprehensive cultural services and facilities directory.
Things to see:
Art Gallery
At the corner of Kembla St and Burelli St is the Wollongong
City Gallery which is the largest regional art museum in
Australia. It features changing exhibitions that showcase
local, national and international artwork. With 27 panels
along its curved facade it is also the only public art
museum in Australia with a major exhibiting gallery facing
the street. The gallery is open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
from Tuesday to Friday and from 12.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. on
weekends and public holidays.
Tourist Information
Head north along Kembla St for one block to the corner of
Kembla and Crown Sts where you will find the Wollongong City
Tourist Information Centre. Its resources include walking
maps for a self-guided tour of Wollongong's few remaining
historic attractions, tel: (02) 4228 0300.
Crown St - City Mall and Historic Buildings
Adjacent the information centre is the post office (1892).
Next door, at 87 Crown St, is a terrace shop with decorative
facade and verandah - one of Wollongong's last remaining
commercial structures of the nineteenth century.
Opposite the information centre is the eastern end of the
City Mall which encourages lingering, lunching, playing with
the children on the swings or watching performances on the
stage.
If you start walking through the mall, you will soon
pass, to the right, Wollongong Uniting Church (1882) which
replaced the original Wesleyan Church (1843).
Anglican Church
Continue westwards through the mall. When you reach the
amphitheatre turn right, heading north up Church St. There
before you, at the top of the hill, is one of Wollongong's
more notable buildings - St Michael's Church of England
which was designed by Edmund Blacket, perhaps Australia's
best-known 19th-century architect. It incorporates sandstone
from an older church that was completed in 1847.
Historic Buildings of Market St
From the church it is possible to gaze eastwards straight
down Market St to the ocean. At the top of Market St,
diagonally opposite the church, is the Italianate Court
House, built in 1886 and designed by colonial architect
James Barnet with a turret clock added in 1890. Extensions
were completed in 1951 and, in 1970, the original courtroom
was restored.
Walk east down Market St. Cross over Kembla St and to the
right is one of the oldest surviving buildings in the
Illawarra, the Congregational Church. Dating back to 1857 it
counted John Fairfax and David Jones amongst its original
benefactors.
Illawarra Museum and Market Place
Continue along Market St. Cross over Corrimal St and, to the
right, at the Queens Parade corner, is a building which
served as an earlier post and telegraph office (1876-92).
The second storey was added in 1882. It is now the Illawarra
Museum which features recreations of 19th-century domestic,
working and educational spaces complete with pioneering
artefacts. There is also a display on the Mt Kembla mining
disaster. It is open from 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. on
Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays and on Thursdays from
12.00 p.m. to 3.00 p.m., tel: (02) 4228 7770.
The building is situated at the edge of Market Square
which was, at the time, the commercial and administrative
centre of the town. The bandstand, antiquated lamp posts,
park benches and avenue of figs and palms evoke something of
its old character.
Historic Meeting Place
Continue to the end of Market St, turn left into Harbour St
and follow it to the Smith St intersection. A small bronze
plaque commemorates a meeting which took place at this very
spot on December 2, 1816 between the first European settlers
and John Oxley.
Oxley had been sent by Governor Macquarie to survey the
area and to negotiate free land grants with the graziers who
had ventured into the area after Charles Throsby had
introduced the first cattle in 1815. This site was chosen as
the meeting place because Throsby's stockmen had built their
hut here.
Former Courthouse
Continue on to the T-intersection where Harbour St meets
Cliff Rd. At this corner is a distinguished sandstone
building (1858) that served as a courthouse until the Market
St premises were opened. It is now the naval cadet
headquarters.
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| Wollongong Harbour
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The Boat Harbour and Lighthouse
Opposite the former courthouse is Wollongong Harbour which
was once the centre of all activity in the Illawarra. The
presence of a reasonable natural harbour, to facilitate the
transportation of people and produce to Sydney, was, after
all, a major cause of settlement. It is hard to imagine
that, until the railway arrived and Port Kembla was
developed, most of the wealth of the Illawarra was shipped
from this modest facility.
Remnants from this heyday include the concrete base of a
crane, which juts from the waters of the outer harbour, and
the first lighthouse. Made of cast iron and riveted boiler
plates, it was erected in 1871-72 after numerous wrecks on
offshore reefs. Its acetylene gas-lamp was replaced with
electricity in 1916.
The second lighthouse is visible atop Flagstaff Hill -
the headland which encloses one side of the harbour. The
hill was named after a flagstaff placed atop a stockade in
the 1830s to warn incoming ships of harbour conditions. The
concrete lighthouse was built in 1936. A walk or drive to
the crest of the elevated headland, via Endeavour Drive, is
highly recommended.
Today the harbour, with its small fishing fleet and
flotilla of pleasure craft, is part of the character and
appeal of Wollongong. It is a delightful place for a picnic.
There is a restaurant and a Fishing Co-op which supplies
fish straight from the waters offshore. The information
centre has a map of the area marked with the historic sites.
If you walk northwards a short distance along Cliff Rd,
you can see (or walk through) a cutting which has been
gouged out of the cliff adjacent the Olympic Pool. Now a
pedestrian track it was originally part of the tramline
route from Mt Pleasant mine to the harbour.
1 km north of the harbour, along Cliff Rd, is Battery
Park. The two cannons and the partially-excavated
underground fortifications are the remnants of a fort built
in 1890 to guard the approaches to the harbour. An earlier
battery was established in the 1870s on Flagstaff Hill. Also
buried are some coke ovens. Built in 1875 they were amongst
the area's first industrial enterprises.
Diving offshore can be organised through Dive Time at the
Novotel, tel: (02) 4226 5066.
Port Kembla
The industry around the Port Kembla Harbour is fascinating.
It is worth driving out to Harbourside Park at the southern
end of the Port Kembla Coal Terminal to see the harbour
operations, the huge coal stockpiles, the giant reclaimers
scooping up coal and the conveyor belts which shift vast
quantities from the coal piles to the ships which wait in
the harbour to take it to the power stations and steel mills
of Asia, Europe and North America.
The Port Kembla Coal Terminal is one of New South Wales'
first examples of privatisation. Once run by the Maritime
Services Board, in the late 1980s it was taken over by a
consortium of coal companies. It is recognised as one of the
great success stories of the Wollongong area and is central
to Australia's overseas earning capacity. You can drive
around the ocean side of the Coal Terminal and this offers
excellent views of the operations as well as interesting
views of the huge breakwater which, remarkably, is used by
both surfers and fishermen.
Alongside the breakwater are coastal fortifications built
in World War II. Designed to protect the harbour the battery
is now a museum concerned with the military history of the
region. It is only open on the second and fourth Sundays of
each month from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
From the southernmost points of the breakwater it is
possible to get an idea of the size of the harbour and the
scale of the operations of BHP's huge steel mill which
covers 800 hectares, employs 9000 people and produces over
4.5 million tonnes of steel anually. Tom Thumb Lookout, off
Springhill Road, is probably the best vantage point over the
steelworks and it provides outstanding views of the
coastline north to the Royal National Park.
The Grain Terminal has 30 storage bins with a capacity of
260 000 tonnes, BHP Coated Products produces 25 km of
cladding annually and Incitec over 600 000 tonnes of
superphosphate a year.
Looking at the steelworks and then looking at the Pacific
Ocean is a reminder that, for all its industrial ugliness
(somewhat alleviated in recent years by a new and
brightly-coloured paint job), this has to be the most
beautifully located steel mill in the world. Where else is
there a steel mill only metres away from surfers, fishermen,
and people in sailing and power boats? If you really want to
experience this contrast at its most extreme drive south of
the steelworks, turn east on Five Islands Road, head towards
the huge 200-metre Southern Copper chimney adjacent the
township of Port Kembla and continue along Military Road to
Fishermans Beach. With its white sands and its views towards
the Five Islands this beautiful beach seems far away from
the heavy industry which lies just behind it.
Nearby is Hill 60 Lookout and Park, surrounded by
regenerated bushland, which affords spectacular views up and
down the coast, west across the lake to the escarpment and,
closer at hand, of the Five Islands and 'Australia's
Industry World' as it has become known since opening its
doors to tourism. The hill is dotted with old gun
emplacements and tunnels from the Second World War.
Guided tours of the whole Pt Kembla complex can be
arranged though the Wollongong Tourist Centre or, if you
would prefer to see it from the harbour, try Harbour Ferry
Tours who provide a one-hour cruise with commentary, tel:
(02) 4274 1045.
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| Nan Tien Buddhist Temple
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The suburbs around the steel mill - Port Kembla,
Warrawong and Cringila - have their own appeal. While being
typical working people's suburbs they reflect the waves of
migration which have arrived in the Illawarra area since the
1950s. If you wander through these shopping centres you will
have moments when you'll wonder whether you haven't
travelled to Italy, Yugoslavia, Turkey or Vietnam. Needless
to say all the restaurants in the area are ethnic delights.
Nan Tien Temple
If you head west back along Five Islands Road you will,
before reaching the Princes Highway at Unanderra, come to a
roundabout which directs you to Berkeley and the Nan Tien
Temple. Situated on 55 hectares of hillside this massive and
striking complex constitutes the largest Buddhist temple in
the southern hemisphere. The entrance takes you past
extensive rose gardens to the main carpark. There is a
beautiful pagoda, two enormous shrines, a museum,
auditorium, conference room, meditation room, a reception
room, dining hall and a 100-room accommodation centre for
visitors.
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| The Botanic Gardens
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The University, Gleniffer Brae and the Botanic Gardens
Wollongong isproud of its 19-hectare Botanic Gardens,
located off Murphys Avenue in Gwynneville. The land was
first granted to James Spearing in 1825. His 'Paulsgrove'
(later 'Mount Keera') Estate was, for a time, the largest
population centre in the Illawarra, with 43 people. The
property was subdivided and later became dairying land. In
1928 it was purchased by Sidney Hoskins, a founding director
of Australian Iron and Steel, who donated the land to the
local council for usage as a garden; the development of
which began in 1964.
There are pamphlets at the entrance with outlined walks
through exotic, subtropical and Illawarra rainforest,
Eucalypt forest, an azalea bank, a pathway out to a rotunda
in the middle of the picturesque lake where ducks and other
birds abound, a fountain, a beautiful secluded rose garden,
a woodland garden at its best in winter, and a glasshouse
for tropical plants. Paths, small creeks, open grassy areas
and pleasant shaded spaces make the gardens an ideal place
for a picnic. They are open from 7.00 a.m. to 4.45 p.m. on
weekdays and 10.00 a.m. to 4.45 p.m. on weekends with hours
extended to 6.45 p.m. in summer. There are conducted walking
tours held on the first Sunday of each month by the Friends
of the Botanic Gardens, tel: (02) 4229 2571.
People interested in architecture should walk up the hill
to Gleniffer Brae (now the Wollongong Conservatorium of
Music), completed in 1939 for the Hoskins family. The
chimneys (fascinating examples of the bricklayer's art)
alone are worth the walk. Nearby are the rather beautiful
grounds of Wollongong University.
Those interested should go to Mt Pleasant Rhododendron
Park, in Parish Ave, Mt Pleasant. It is open weekends from
10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. from Easter to October. The entry
fee, as of October 1, 1997, was $2 per car and there are
barbecue and picnic facilities.
Mt Kembla Historic Village
Mt Kembla started its colonial life as a farming and orchard
district. The first land grant was made in 1817. In 1865 it
became the site of the first kerosene works in Australia.
The coalmine, which opened in 1880, was the site of
Australia's worst mining tragedy when 96 'men' (some as
young as 14) were killed as the result of an explosion in
1902. Along with the
Bulli disaster when 81 people were killed, it is a
reminder of the 630 or so men who have been killed in the
region's mines since 1887. The cemetery of the Soldiers and
Miners Memorial Church of England contains a number of
graves from the 1902 disaster.
Today Mt Kembla village, 11 km south-west of Wollongong,
is a quiet attractive little village that still retains
something of its original character. The beautiful setting
of mountain views and bushland surrounds has attracted
painters, poets and craftspeople over the years. Mt Kembla
Primary School was built in 1895 and the Mt Kembla Hotel in
1890. All are located on Cordeaux Rd, which heads west off
the Princes Highway at the roundabout just north of
Unanderra.
Lookouts and Walks around Wollongong
There are several superb lookouts with spectacular views
around Wollongong, some located in bushland conducive to
bushwalking and horseriding. The Tourist Information Office
provides maps and details of the various escarpment walks.
Perhaps most impressive are the two lookouts at the top
of Bulli Pass - Bulli Lookout at Hopetoun Park and, in
particular, Sublime Point. The two are interconnected by a
walking path.
The views are also outstanding from Bald Hill to the lookouts at Mt Keira and Mt
Kembla.
There are several walking trails around Mt Keira (369 m),
most notably the ring track (5.5 km) which provides access
to Dave Walsh's Track and the Robertsons Lookout Track.
These rainforest walks have excellent views of the
Illawarra. To get there head west out of Wollongong along
Crown St. At the top of the hill turn right into Mt Keira Rd
and follow it up the mountain and you will see signs
indicating points at which the ring track can be joined. One
turnoff leads to Mt Keira Summit Park which has picnic and
barbecue facilities, a kiosk and tearooms.
Further along is Robertsons Lookout where there is a
concrete walkway suitable for wheelchairs. Drive to the end
of Harry Graham Drive through the village of Kembla Heights
into Cordeaux Road. A right turn off the bitumen and on to a
gravel section of Cordeaux Rd which will take you past Windy
Gully. Another kilometre will bring you to Kembla Lookout.
The area of subtropical rainforest around the peak of Mt
Kembla (534 m) is a flora and fauna reserve'.The views from
the lookout are quite exceptional and there are several fine
bushwalking trails which start from that point. The ring
track (5 km) takes you past a pond constructed last century
to supply water for the pit ponies, the entrance to a mine
that operated from 1887-90 (entry is forbidden and
life-threatening), an old cemetery with more graves from the
1902 disaster, and some old miner's huts built in the 1880s.
The Mt Keira and Mt Kembla areas described above are a
part of the Illawarra Escarpment State Recreation Area,
donated by BHP in 1980. The Sutherland office of the
National Parks and Wildlife Service has several pamphlets
relating to the area and its walks, tel: (02) 9585 6444.
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| Pelicans feeding at
Wollongong Harbour |
The Beaches
There are numerous beaches along the Illawarra Coast, most
of them patrolled and most of them of exceptional quality
and beauty, particularly to the north where the escarpment
drops precipitously down to the beaches which adjoin
picturesque old mining villages in busland settings.
In terms of its diversity North Wollongong beach is the
equal of anything in Sydney - and it's never as crowded. The
huge pink building, the Northbeach International, is a
five-star hotel which offers typical five-star eating with
views across the beach. North of the hotel is The Lagoon, a
delightful, Mediterranean-style restaurant which is located
on the lagoon behind the beach. Behind the beach, and beside
the lagoon, is Stuart Park with its excellent barbecue and
picnic facilities.
The surfing comes highly recommended at Stanwell Park,
Coledale, and Sandon Point (Thirroul), Pt Kembla, the
northern end of Warilla Beach, The Shallows near Bass Point,
Killalea and Minnamurra Beaches (Shellharbour), Jones Beach
at Kiama Downs and Bombo Beach.
The Illawarra beaches are rich in rock pools and beach
and rock fishing for bream, whiting and flathead is popular.
There are prawns in season at Lake Illawarra and deep-sea
fishing for snapper and tuna off Wollongong Harbour.
Naturally there are boat ramps galore and there are boats
for hire from Wollongong Boat Charter (tel: 02 4256 6173) or
Windang Boatshed, tel: (02) 4296 2015.
Science Centre
Also of interest is the delightful Science Centre at Fairy
Meadow, which has numerous hands-on interactive displays for
people of all ages, tel: (02) 4221 5591.
Illawarra Motoring Museum
The Illawarra Motoring Museum on Northcliffe Drive at Kembla
Grange is open on Sundays from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. with
barbecue facilities, tel: (02) 4228 7048.
Cycling and Driving
There are extensive cycling tracks throughout the region,
particularly from Wollongong north to Thirroul (the
visitor's centre has a pamphlet detailing the routes).
While in the Illawarra be sure to drive north along the
coast road through the delightful villages that dot the
escarpment .
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