|
| Umina Beach looking
across at Lion Island |
Woy Woy (including Ettalong, Umina, Ocean Beach and
Koolewong).
Popular holiday and retirement destination on the Central
Coast north of Sydney
Woy Woy is a holiday and retirement centre 8 km south of
Gosford and 85 km north of Sydney via the Newcastle Freeway.
It is the largest of a number of settlements strung along
the western foreshores of Brisbane Water, a shallow but very
large inlet. At the western end of Broken Bay is the mouth
of the Hawkesbury River and at its southern end the mouth of
Pittwater. All four bodies of water are popular with
holidaymakers due to their proximity to Sydney, the
beautiful scenery, the warm summer weather and the
opportunities they present for boating, swimming, fishing.
Increasing numbers of people commute every day to Sydney
along the freeway and via the electrified train line.
Brisbane Water Drive runs off the Pacific Highway at West
Gosford down to Woy Woy. Driving south the road follows the
beautiful shoreline of Brisbane Water. The drive reveals
that the development is continuous, though it not so
excessive as to destroy the considerable beauty of the area.
The last stop along Brisbane Water Drive before Woy Woy
is Koolewong where there is a strip of parkland between the
road and the ocean. There are picnic and playground
facilities and a pedestrian walkway along the foreshore with
a carpark, a deepwater boat ramp and a boat hire service.
Most of Woy Woy (along with Ettalong and Umina) is on a
large peninsula, called The Peninsula, which juts from the
mainland. The western edge of the peninsula is divided off
from the rest of the mainland by Woy Woy Inlet. It is one of
the few flat areas of the Central Coast.
The distance between the eastern edge of The Peninsula
and the opposite shore of Brisbane Water is slight (less
than a kilometre) and is spanned by The Rip Bridge. On the
other side is Saratoga. St Huberts Island, Rileys Island and
Pelican Island (the latter two are nature reserves) lie
between the two shores just north of the bridge.
At the southern end of The Peninsula are Mt Ettalong,
Pearl Beach and
Patonga.
The words 'Woy Woy' reputedly come from the language of
an Aboriginal group called the Guringgai (or Kuringgai). It
is said to mean 'much water' or 'big lagoon' - an obvious
reference to Brisbane Water. The Guringgai once occupied the
land from the Hawkesbury in the south to Lake Macquarie in
the north. It is known that the tribe wore possum hair belts
(in which they carried their few possessions) and
occasionally possum skin clothing. The men carried spears,
boomerangs, stone axes, boomerangs and shields and hunted
large prey such as kangaroos and fish which they speared.
The women collected most of the food - fish (caught on
fishing lines), shellfish, fruit, tubers, insect larvae,
snakes, lizards and small mammals. When the fish migrated in
winter the tribe moved inland to find other food sources.
Governor Phillip and a party of officers and seamen
entered Broken Bay in a whaleboat in 1788, about a month
after establishing the settlement at Sydney Cove. They
passed Lion Island at the mouth of Brisbane Water and
sheltered from heavy rains behind the rocky headland of
Green Point. Phillip observed 'the land is much higher than
at Port Jackson, more rocky and equally covered with timber;
large trees which grow on the summits of mountains'.
Apparently the indigenous peoples were impressed with the
fact that he had a missing front tooth, as it was an
initiation rite amongst them to knock out the front tooth of
young men.
Phillip returned in 1789 to what was then called the
North East Arm but the focus subsequently fell on the
Hawkesbury River. The proximity of a penal colony at
Newcastle also discouraged settlement but when this was
moved north to Port Macquarie, European settlement around
'the Arm' began. It was renamed Brisbane Water in the early
1820s after the then-governor of NSW.
The first white settlers were drawn by the possibilities
of exploiting the local supplies of cedar, forest oak, blue
gum and other hardwoods. Boatbuilding also began at this
time and continued until World War I. The first to receive a
land grant in the area was boat builder James Webb who
occupied 120 ha on the eastern side of Brisbane Water from
1823. Samuel Coulter also built a house there and
established a farm. It was then a large sandy area covered
with scrub. Webb purchased another 150 acres in 1834. It was
this second portion which contained the land upon which the
central shopping area of Woy Woy was later built.
Because there were no roads, contact with the world
beyond was strictly by boat and so settlement was restricted
to the area alongside the shores of Brisbane Water and its
inlets. Small settlers took up land on the ocean shores,
growing maize, onions, potatoes and hay. Others gathered
cockle shells which were loaded on to ketches and sent off
for lime-burning. The gentry focused on the timbered areas
along the tidal inlets. The terrain made the area a haven
for smugglers, moonshiners, escapee convicts and
ticket-of-leave men.
As the land was cleared and settlement expanded into
traditional Aboriginal lands, relationships with the local
kooris, which had, till then, been amicable, began to sour.
They were driven from the land. When they struck back
against what they saw as theft, the whites settlers
retaliated and, by the 1860s, there were virtually no
Guringgai left in the area.
A survey in 1829 listed about 100 persons (half of them
convicts assisting the timbergetters) living along Brisbane
Water, with 916 cattle, 7 horses and 205 acres under
cultivation. By 1833 there were 315 people.
The first oyster lease was established around1884.
However, it was the arrival of the railway in 1888 which
really precipitated the development of the town. The Woy Woy
Tunnel (1791 metres) was built for the occasion out of ten
million bricks, shipped by Rock Davis of Blackwall to Brick
Wharf, at the north-eastern tip of Woy Woy Peninsula. They
were then transported along a rail line (now Brick Wharf Rd)
to the construction camp. It is the longest railway tunnel
in NSW.
The first store and post office and four temporary hotels
opened to cater for the 800 workers building the tunnel.
With railway access Woy Woy became a fishing and tourist
resort in the 1890s. Around this time the Central Coast
became the primary tourism destination of Sydneysiders.
Fishing was the main drawcard, although bathing and shooting
were other attractions. Subdivision soon got under way.
Resorts, holiday villages and boarding houses began to
appear and a ferry service was introduced. Two of the
original boarding houses - Roma and Louisville - are now
private houses in Brick Wharf Rd.
The population had increased to 660 by 1911. Webb's
original Woy Woy estate was sold off at auction in 1912 and
a permanent official post office opened the following year.
The first road to the town was built in 1923 under an
unemployment relief scheme. It was enlarged and made ready
for road traffic in 1930. The population subsequently
increased from 1 710 in 1947 to 7 396 by 1954 and 16 287 by
1966. Its growth was aided by the proximity of a rapidly
expanding Gosford. Woy Woy later prospered as a service
centre to the other resort and retirement centres along the
foreshores of Brisbane Water.
Things to see:
![[Top of page]](smlArrow.gif)
The Wharves and Fishing
Cross the bridge from Koolewong and take the first left into
The Boulevarde. On the immediate left is the public wharf
where
Brisbane Water Ferries run 75-minute scenic cruises of
the waterway about a dozen times a day, stopping at
Davistown, Saratoga and Woy Woy, from 6 am to 9 pm weekdays
and from 9 to 6 on weekends, contact (02) 4369 5066.
Starship Cruises offer cruises of Brisbane Water and
Broken Bay on the MV Lady Kendall. Built in 1901 it's
reputedly the oldest working vessel in Australia. The 2.5
hour cruises depart Woy Woy Wharf at 10.35 a.m. and 12.10
p.m. Saturday to Wednesday and every day in the school
holidays, contact (02) 4323 1655.
While you are at the wharf, look up. There are usually
large pelicans perched on all of the light poles. Just
beyond the public wharf is Fisherman's Wharf. There are
flathead, whiting, bream and crabs to be had. Woy Woy Bay,
west of the bridge, is also good for flathead, bream and
jewfish and for prawns at night. Brett's Bait and Tackle
shop is at 17 The Boulevarde.
Woy Woy Hotel
The road ends at a T-intersection and the left turn is into
Brickwharf Rd. Opposite are the fine looking premises of the
Woy Woy Hotel, completed in 1897 after the completion of the
railway promised regular patronage. An apocryphal story
suggests the hotel was built from leftover bricks imported
for the railway tunnel. The widening of Brick Wharf Rd
necessitated the destruction of a verandah with ornamental
railings.
Picnic Areas
There is a waterfront reserve with picnic facilities,
toilets, showers, a playground, tidal baths and formal
gardens in War Memorial Park, off Brickwharf Rd, which runs
eastwards out to the north-eastern edge of The Peninsula.
Just before the dead end turn left into North Burge Rd, by
the bowling club, and at the end of that road is a boat ramp
to the left and, to the right, another boat ramp and Lions
Park, where there are also picnic facilities, toilets, a
playground and night lights.
Blackwall Mountain Lookout
For a bird's eye view of the area head south from the
roundabout near the bridge along Blackwall Rd (or follow
North Burge Rd to its southern end, take a hard right into
Park Rd then a left at its end into Blackwall Rd). Take the
turnoff to the left as Blackwall Rd heads east (it leads to
Blackwall Pt where there was once a wharf owned by
shipbuilder and timber merchant, Rock Davis, whose business
activities sustained the township of Blackwall in the late
nineteenth century).
The high embankment to the right is the edge of Blackwall
Mountain. To access the lookout you must take the first
right into Bayview Crescent. Near its end is a right turn
into another roadway. After a few metres there is a bar
across the road. Stop here and walk up. It's uphill but not
far (a 15-minute walk) and enjoyable.
Just past the water tank the road forks. Stick to the
left. Just a few metres on is a picnic table and a sign to
the lookout. There is a good view to the south. The
geometric layout of residential East Ettalong is below. The
roar of the traffic is at odds with the tranquillity of
Brisbane Water which lies beyond and the densely treed
shoreline of Wagstaffe on the other side. It's easy to close
your eyes and imagine how it looked before white settlement.
Ettalong
Retrace your steps back to Blackwall Rd but turn left
heading south along Memorial Ave. The first left is into
Maitland Bay Rd which heads east across the Rip Bridge to
Daleys Point. At the end of Ettalong Oval (to your right)
turn right into Picnic Parade (clearly signposted). Ettalong
is said to translate as 'place for drinking'. It was
originally known to Europeans as Bar Swamp then Gittin's
Lagoon. Once a well dug in the sand behind Ettalong Beach
supplied fresh water to passing vessels. Anglers will find
Ettalong Beach good for whiting, in season.
The Seaside Village Market
Down Picnic Parade lie the Ettalong shops. There is parking
in the middle of the road. On weekends the markets cover the
southern end of Picnic Parade and Ocean View Parade.
War Museum
For those interested in war history and war memorabilia
there is a modest display in one room of the RSL sub-branch.
It is on Picnic Parade, just beyond the intersection with
Ocean View Parade. It is open Mondays and Wednesdays from
9.00 a.m. - 12.00 and from 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m. on
weekends.
Shell Museum.
Picnic Parade ends at The Esplanade which follows the
shoreline of Ettalong Beach, a main attraction if the
weather is warm. Turn right. Follow The Esplanade south and
turn right, opposite the boat ramp, into Koorung St. Take
the second left down Barrenjoey Rd and then the first right
into Warrah St. The first house to the left after the corner
block (no.2) is home to Nature's Harlequins Shell Museum.
This is actually the private collection of Roy Gifford,
housed in a shed at the back of his home, but it is
worthwhile as Roy will guide you through the collection and
brings it to life with an interesting account both of the
way in which the particular design of a shell is related to
its particular environment, and of the nature of the
creatures generally. It is open every day but Tuesday,
contact (02) 4341 5998.
|
| View from Mt Ettalong
lookout over Umina Beach with Brisbane Waters in the
distance |
Ocean Beach and Umina
South of Ettalong is the residential area known as Umina,
said to mean 'repose'. Umina was established as a holiday
resort town in 1917 with the sale of a thousand allotments.
A motor service connected it to Woy Woy train station (at
the time a 15-minute trip for sixpence).
Immediately south of Ettalong Beach is Ocean Beach. At
the end of The Esplanade is a play and picnic area. Turn
right into Norman St and follow it to its terminus then turn
left into West St. At its end the road bends to the left as
Sydney Ave. After a short distance you will come to a
signposted left into the remainder of Sydney Ave. At its end
are Umina Beach and a caravan park. To the right a large
recreation area. Further south are Mt Ettalong,
Pearl Beach and
Patonga.
Staples Lookout
Woy Woy stands adjacent the enormous Brisbane Water National
Park. Woy Woy Rd bisects the park. It heads south-west out
of town from the western end of Rawson Rd, following the
shoreline of Woy Woy Inlet down to the southern tip of
Correa Bay (where there is a deepwater boat ramp),
northwards past Horsfield Bay and Phegans Bay, then
north-west. Keep your eyes right for the signpost indicating
Staples Lookout with a commanding view eastwards over the
park to Woy Woy Bay in the distance.
|
| The walkway around the
edges of the the Bulgandry Aboriginal engravings
|
The Bulgandry Aboriginal Engravings
It is another 2 km to the signposted turnoff on the left
which will take you to the carpark for the Bulgandry
Aboriginal Engravings site. It is a short walk along a path
to the flat rock surface which lies horizontal at ground
level. A pathway has been constructed around the
circumference of the site for optimum viewing and minimal
damage. There are good information boards nearby which look
at what is known of the Guringgai and the etchings. The
figures are of men, women, marine life, kangaroos and
canoes. It is not known to what extent they form a
narrative, and to what extent they are pedagogical or of
ceremonial significance (or all three). They probably
started as a charcoal or scratched outline that was then
made permanent by 'pecking' holes along the outline with a
pointed stone with the area between the holes later rubbed
away. Although a good surviving example, erosion has taken
its toll and the figures are sometimes indistinct, though
the information boards are helpful in providing clarity. The
engravings are clearest at dawn or dusk or after rain. It is
another 2.7 km to the Pacific Highway just west of Gosford
(for further information on the park see the entry on
Gosford).
|
| Putty Beach in the Bouddi
National Park |
Bouddi National Park
1189-ha Bouddi National Park lies on the other side of
Brisbane Water, just 8 km from Woy Woy via Maitland Bay
Drive, Empire Bay Drive and Wards Hill Rd (see entry on
Kincumber for further details).
Tours, Cruises and Other Services
A number of operators will pick up clients from their homes,
though this may depend upon whether there are sufficient
numbers. Central Coast Kayak Tours will pick people up from
most Central Coast train stations (there is also a daily
coach service from Sydney), contact (02) 4381 0342. Meals
are provided and no experience is necessary. Central Coast
Bushworks offer guided bushwalks in the area as well as
abseiling, all equipment supplied, contact (02) 4363 2028.
Alcheringa Tours at 20 Sierra Crescent, East Gosford,
offer tours for small groups of varying duration into the
local caves and national parks, contact (02) 4325 5966. It's
Easy Tours organise luxury coach holidays with day tours of
the Central Coast and out to Wisemans Ferry, contact (02)
4340 1037. Fresh Tracks Safaris specialise in 4WD tours of
the Central Coast, the Hunter Vineyards and Aboriginal
sites, contact (02) 4385 3024. Blunsdon Day Tours and
Charters run mini-coach day tours around the Central Coast
and other areas. They will pick you up by arrangement,
contact (02) 4328 1317. Aeroflite offer scenic flights over
the Central Coast for up to seven passengers, as well as
charter flights. They depart from Warnervale aerodrome, just
north of Wyong, contact (02) 4392 4199.
Starship Cruises offer cruises of Brisbane Water and
Broken Bay on the MV Lady Kendall. Built in 1901 it's
reputedly the oldest working vessel in Australia. The 2.5
hour cruises depart from Woy Woy wharf at 10.35 am and 12.10
pm Saturday to Wednesday and every day in the school
holidays, contact (02) 4323 1655. Broken Bay Fishing
Charters operate within Broken Bay, the Hawkesbury and
Pittwater, contact (02) 4342 7207 and Central Coast Charters
also offer fishing charter services (from Ettalong and
Terrigal only) and both ocean and river cruises, contact
(0412) 436 884.
Woy Woy hosts an Oyster and Wine Festival in November.
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